plyin
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RollcageSR20:
One way to find out is to clean out the EGR and BPT. However, I don't see how the EGR could affect dyno readings, since the EGR is shut off during WOT (ECU is in open loop mode at WOT, also.)</font>
<ghetto mode on> We somehow stripped the EGR fitting that goes into the header, so what i did was this, cut off the egr tube at the solenoid, blocked off the solnoid(so its not longer functioning) and i jammd the fitting into my header as best i could for now, with the remaining piece of tube coming from the egr fitting i stuck a piece of heater hose over that and stuck a socket extention in that to plug it(its all i had layin around!!)<ghetto mode off> So right now i have a leak there, cuz i didnt do the greatest job pluggin it up, and i ALSo have a leak on my downpipe where there is a hole for a EGT probe. They did not send me a plug for that so i just suck a screw in there for now, which i know is not the right size, bu its all i had layin around. So, i know i am hurting there, cuz i can hear the leaks when i get on it hard. Im having a frend weld both holes shut for me, when i have time. I only dynoed this weekened cuz i wanted to, i wasnt expectng anythign spectacular.
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Also, the stock exhaust system becomes a restriction point once cams have been added to the mix. I'm sure if a free-flowing muffler was used, a few HP could be had.</font>
I know that, and i had plannd on buying a Greddy form someone not long ago, but it fell through. I had the Courtesy, but 2.5 inch pipes are no good on a NA sr20, trust me plus it was just plain ****in loud.
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The JWT S3 and S4 cams DO NOT like advanced timing. 15 degrees seem to be the optimum setting for the JWT S3/S4 cams, however, the next time there's an opportunity to dyno again, I would try it at 13, 15, and 17 degrees to see what the car likes. </font>
I have my timing set at 15 degrees, and this has ben verified by more than one person, so its right.
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Another thing to check would be tire pressures and the alignment. Extreme toe-in or toe-out could skew dyno numbers by a few HP. </font>
Checked my tire pressures before i left for carlisle and they wee god. Alignment is fine.
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Also, the cam timing might be off, although it's unlikely if the install went without any mishaps, or monkey dung.
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Cam timing is right on. When i first did the cams car wouldnt start, went back in and check and it was off by 2 rollers, i fixed that. car runs fine.
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FYI, my SE-R made 143.8hp and 128.4lb/ft with the S3 cams and the JWT S3/S4 ECU program and the rest of the bolt-on's. So, I would hope once all the variables have been checked, and you've upgraded to the JWT ECU, and a free-flowing muffler (or full cat-back), you should be at least in the high 140's/low 150's for HP, and low-to-mid 130's for torque.</font>
In the next couple months i will be getting the ECU, and a Greddy. I will also be callin JWT up and ordering some cam gears, cuz i want a litle more low end(thats where the s4's hurt). Kojima said he got a couple horsey power advancing the exhaust cams 2.5 degrees, so im gonan try that. Hell they cant hurt for 150 bucks. The holes in my header are hurting the torque i think, i dont think ill gain hp when i fix those up. We'll see.
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Ryan Walsh, 1997 200sx SE-R w/ ES mounts, JWT s4's, AEBS 4-1, PR CAI, Sportlines/AGX's, Bridgestone re730's, Matrix FSTB, Stillen GTR grill
[This message has been edited by RPWSER (edited 05-07-2001).]