[Guest]

what the hell did you guys use to get the old passenger side insert out, the big liquid filled one ? I've been poking at for about 45 minutes now.
I'm a monkey and can't figure out a good method to it out.

Thank's,

Art

 

[redman007]

you need to go to a mechanic that has a hydraulic pres . the same thing the use toput in wheel bearings and such. with that tol, you can take the old one out and put the new one in. good luck

------------------
91 SE-R,10:1 comp.pistons,balanced &blueprint rebuild.comp.4angle valve job,extrude honed heads/intake manifold,No emissions.crap,RC TB/MAF,nismo cams,UR pulleys,stillen4-1 ceram.header,nismo/centerforce dual fric.clutch,PR CAI,2 1/2 test pipe,mandrel 2 1/4 superturbo ex.,and a whole bunch of other goodies! boost is in the works ,hell yeah 3:16!

 

[Bowlcut]

Ive heard good results with a torch

. Use your on good mind on that one. But probaly easier and quicker to just take it to a mechanic and have him press it out and the new one in. But the ******* way is to burn it out then use a car or bench vise to press the new one in.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for suggestions, I think I'll let the mechanic do it. I've spent way too much time on the mount as it is, and I think It'll be less painful to take it someone with the right tools.
Although playing with fire is kinda fun...

-Art

 

[Pit_Viper]

Some people (including myself) have had success with a hacksaw, as described in the National SE-R mailing list archives. However, don't be fooled by claims that such a procedure is easy. It's a real pain in the posterior.

 

[fred99sr20]

I just did my ES passenger mount today. First, once you have the mount out-you'll need a hacksaw. Towards the bottom of the mount, close to the mount holes is an open area for the hacksaw. Stick the blade in that area then re-attach the blade to the saw. Cut through the little rubber toward the bottom. Make sure you cut through the rubber and metal sleeve surrounding the rubber, but DO NOT cut through the ALUMINUM HOUSING. I read this before and thought it wouldn't work, but IT DID! After you cut through the metal sleeve, give it 2 or 3 good wacks and it POPS right out. You have to make sure it's thourougly cut through the sleeve, or it won't pop out. It should take no longer than 10-15 minutes. Question is, did anyone re-use the stock INNER SLEEVE? People told me not to use it. But when I tightened the center main bolt, it WASN'T as tight as the stock mount.

 

[Guest]

I had a shop press the old one out and put the new insert in while I got lunch. Much easier but a little more costly, but then again I didn't have access to a hack saw...college allows for only so many tools in my budget.

Took the car out, feel great. Shifts are smoother, very little wheelhop compared to the stock mount, which was my original intention for replacing it. The idle is not bad either seeing how I got used to my vibrator of '92 subaru oil monster.

Thanks for the help.

Art

Teal'97 with PR CAI, Hotshot Gen3 Header, ES Torque Set, SMC shifter, other comfort stuff.