SR20 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Barney will pwn you
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What is everyones opinion on this? Is it worth the cash? I have the cash, but I want to use it wisely. I'll be running it in a 95 SE-R with rebuilt motor with a 93 head on it. Will be puttin in GTiR pistons and rods. I would like to hear from people that have run this kit before. I need to know before I shell out $3000 for one. What else can you suggest? I'll be picking up some C1s later down the road, I could grab them now, but then have no cash for extra stuff like turbo timer, boost controller, guage pod, guages, etc. I will definatley get those C1s down the road.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
Forget stage I if you are beefing up the internals, it won't even hardly stress the stock internals! Save your money on the C1s, and instead upgrade to Stage II FMAX, that a way you are not wasting your time buying stuff you will have to upgrade later. You can run Stage II without a turbo timer, boost controller, but I would have a gauge. If you are considering this kind of power, I sincerely hope your suspension and braking are up to handle this kind of power... not to mention motor mounts, cooling, exhaust system, bushings, tranny, clutch.... adds up quick don't it! In other words, you are gonna need more than 3 Gs, to do it right, expect to pay over 6.5 grand minimum.
 

·
Barney will pwn you
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
how much more is the Stage 2 compared to Stage 1.....also what is included in the stage 2 that makes it worth the difference?? what you said about suspension and braking...well that was the main reason I was going Stage 1 because the max boost would be 10psi and that shouldnt break my tranny yet.....Motor Mounts probaly JWT...suspension stock for now maybe some KYB AGX.....does anyone have experience running the Stage 1 ...PRO's CON's??

[This message has been edited by SERracer01 (edited 10-09-2001).]
 

·
Air filter cleaner masta
Joined
·
4,218 Posts
I want to know where to get one for 3 grand? If you can email me that would be great. I was looking to get a stage 1 for now and upgrade later. But I am not sure where to get one for that price. Thanks



------------------
Mark Merliss
97 SR20 SE-R(Pacific sun blue)
Its from america's dairyland, what can get any better than that.
Pics up soon!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
I don't know about getting the F-max kit for $3000. I think I paid about $3600 before shipping.

------------------
Brandon
98 SE-R
F-Max stage I
 

·
Barney will pwn you
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanx you guys. I realized that prepping the engine takes more than I originally wanted to spend. I prolly doing a BB engine. It costs less then doing the whole stage I with GTiR pistons and rods, etc. So I'm goin to pick up a BB and keeping it stock til I have the money to get a front mount and upgrade to a ball-bearing t3/4 turbo. My car right now is the purple Barney color. I need to get a paint job while the motor is out. I'll prolly gut the whole car...everything to the bare metal so i can pain inside and out. Prolly black. I know you guys know this guy thats doing my swap. Jay Whitely. Well, I know he does a clean job and prolly picking up the motor from Andres or Jason dunno yet.
 

·
Low flying black object
Joined
·
669 Posts
Why can't he just do the Stage I..? Why does everybody say you have to do the absolute most power from their car..? I'm not flaming, but if it is all he needs/wants.what is wrong with it? The stageI would smoke almost everything you come across on a daily basis...and he would never have to worry about the motor..just food for thought.

------------------

Brad B. 96 SE-R
PR CAI,HS Gen 4,GReddy Catback, ACT,ES motor mnts,1.8 dropw/AGX's,F&R STB's,17deg timing,91 intake cam,NGK wires,ALT 159's, 205/40/17 Kumho 712's,SMC short shifter,Autometer tach, Royal Purple synthetics..AND A VANILLA AIR FRESHENER!
 

·
Barney will pwn you
Joined
·
382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yea true that but now I've calculated everything out and its goin to cost more than a BB swap. So I'll just be another SR20DET powered B14
 

·
Fmax Stg II B13
Joined
·
358 Posts
Oh, he can do the stage 1, I think that people were just saying for the money spent on rebuilding the motor, you could just get the stage 2 and enjoy it perhaps a bit more.
 

·
rollin 4 deep with JoeD
Joined
·
1,410 Posts
If you're just looking for some mild power (250hp), you will be happy with the T25 equipped DET. I recommend going with the F-MAX kit though, on your stock 95 motor. You will have ALOT of room for improvement in the future when you are ready to upgrade it. The stage I kit uses 370cc injectors and your stock MAF. These limit you to the 250hp mark, and you would probably run a t3/t04e with a .63 housing, which with the BB center section would be really quick to spool.
Later, when you are ready to sink more money in it, you can upgrade your fuel pump, MAF (to a Cobra MAF), and switch out to the 50 lb or 72 lb injectors. With this combo you should be able to hit about 350hp with the .63 exhaust housing turbo, or 400hp with the .82 exhaust housing. The stock ignition is good for about 350-360hp as long as you're not runnin H20 ignition. The water injection requires some more spark, but will allow you to run up to 14-15 psi on the street with this big turbo, on 91 octane gas and your stock 9.5:1 pistons.
There is tons of information about this on the SE-R.net mailing list archives, DET vs. F-MAX or what not. In the end, you may spend slightly more on the F-MAX kit, but IMHO will be rewarded with the ability to later run insane boost levels. Also, using the t3/t4 will make your motor a happier one, avoiding all the backpressure caused by the tiny t25
You will also have the advantage of running an external wastegate, which are super responsive.
Oh, and whoever said you have to upgade your cooling system, thats probably not true unless you live in hell (TX) or you do alot of road racing. Even then, i think the H20 ignition will do just fine keeping the combustion temps down. I'm running the stock cooling system and stock radiator with no problems in 109 degree summer temperature with the AC blasting. The NX2K brakes hold up just fine to my daily driving as well, since I don't drive like a maniac most of the time, but my tranny has been upgraded with a new input shaft, new 3rd gear all cryoed and mil spec shotpeened.
Turbo timer and boost controller are not needed for either kit, but are nice things to have. Bushings are also an option, though a good clutch will be needed for either turbo routes. I am pleased with the ACT 6 puck/HD PP i am using. People on the list complain its to harsh, but once you learn how to drive with it, you hardly notice its there.

Frank Orozco
96 200sx SE-R
F-MAX Stage II sleeper
350hp/320 ft lbs @ 22psi (c16 race fuel)
stock ignition, 15" stock wheels
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by cnynracer1:
I am pleased with the ACT 6 puck/HD PP i am using. People on the list complain its to harsh, but once you learn how to drive with it, you hardly notice its there.

Frank Orozco
96 200sx SE-R
F-MAX Stage II sleeper
350hp/320 ft lbs @ 22psi (c16 race fuel)
stock ignition, 15" stock wheels


</font>
very true, i have the 4 puck, i dont like any other clutches now, took me a good 2 weeks of learning to daily drive with it and adjusting the clutch feel to my taste.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,793 Posts
TX, hell? no, just not weenie weather, that's it, just because it gets really hot does not mean it is bad, girls wear less in hot weather
 

·
Air filter cleaner masta
Joined
·
4,218 Posts
People with F-max stage 1 kits, how have you done in the quarter mile? Also, if you went to the dyno, what did the charts say. Thanks. If you can email me at [email protected] with some info, I have a few other questions for you. Thanks


------------------
Mark Merliss
97 SR20 SE-R(Pacific sun blue)
Its from america's dairyland, what can get any better than that.
Pics up soon!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
No. I ran a 13.48 @ 102 with M&H 23x7.5 slicks. I also ran a 14.2 @ 100 with 205/45 16 Bridgestones. BTW, those times were run with boost set at 8 psi. My track is too crappy to get good times. I also have a 98 which means no VLSD. If any of you need more info, just post a reply. I try to check in everyday.


------------------
Brandon
98 SE-R
F-Max stage I
 

·
Air filter cleaner masta
Joined
·
4,218 Posts
I need a lot of info. If you have time to answer a few questions that would be great. Thanks



------------------
Mark Merliss
97 SR20 SE-R(Pacific sun blue)

[email protected] w/ s4's,jwt ecu, muffler, and a styrafoam air filter.
 

·
Air filter cleaner masta
Joined
·
4,218 Posts
You've got mail. Thanks


------------------
Mark Merliss
97 SR20 SE-R(Pacific sun blue)

[email protected] w/ s4's,jwt ecu, muffler, and a styrafoam air filter.
 

·
www.motorists.org
Joined
·
3,047 Posts
Depending on what you are out for, a T25 EASILY can get you in the 13s. I did [email protected] with a simple BB T25 setup on my 98 SE with no exhaust and street tires. I could hit [email protected] with my crappy 2" downpipe and Courtesy exhaust. Oh, and this was all at stock boost, 7psi. with a boost controller and slicks (maybe even street tires) breaking the 12's barrier should not be an issue with the T25.

Since I know what a T25 can do, I really want to drive a T28 or T3/T4 SR20 before I would decide to do otherwise. I never got a boost controller for my setup so I know that I had some way to go. But also keep in mind that these used T25s don't seem to last forever. Mike Gosselin's turbo died on him, and they often spit some oil out the compressor too, but then work ok. It's kind of hit and miss from the 4 T25s I directly know about.

------------------
Ben98SentraSE
98 Sentra SE stock, slow, and for sale
93 NX2000 Quaife ATB diff, JWT clutch, SMC short shifter, front STB, front ES control arm bushings, JWT POP charger, B14 SE-R wheels as soon as I get my tire swappin' done
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top