if you are going to think about doing the upgrade then have the rotors turned. i warped mine in like 6 to 8 months. but that doesnt mean you will. one thing automatics are harder on brakes, my dads truck went 11 years on stock rear drums 150k and only one set on the front. if you know how to drive you dont go though brakes. on a tight budget get the rotors turned, and get some advanced pads. turning about 7 bucks a rotor(in cookeville dont know about other places) and like probaly 30 for pads(ben knows the pad prices i think), rear pads 15 bucks. grease up your pins real good and put vavoline syntec fluid though the system clean out the fluid real well. the brake lines can wait or you can go ahead now if you feel you want to upgrade something. they will work with both sets of calps so it doesnt matter when you get them. but for probaly under 100 bucks total with labor you probaly could get new pads all around, rotors turned if needed, and new fluid, i would guess. lines are like 150 bucks i think from SMC.
one reason i had to rebuild/replace my calps were because my dust boots on the pins were GONE. so i had to do something, the calp was probaly rubbing on the rotor(not fully releasing and sliding well) that probaly led to my warped rotors.
if you are going to do nothing but replace the pads and turn the rotors do the work yourself dude. its real easy, hell you can do it with a haynes i did. i was a bit worried at first too. its two bolts to loosen and remove then the calp comes off, pads clip in place, hardware kit pretty easy to figure out i did it without looking at anything, rotors come off easily. usualy just fall off. get in another car run them to a machine shop/mechanics shop that turns rotors they usualy will do it for like 7 bucks. then slide them back on, clip in the pads, slide calp over them, grease up the pins real good lithum grease good, slide them in, tighten down. i did mine just to arm tight then months later removed pins to regrease then and have eric put them on with the torque wrench. but just a good grunt or two is about as tight as they need to be. fluid is easy. get a bleeder kit, main thing you want is the clear tubing...so if you got some clear tubing that will go over the bleeder valve you dont have to buy anything. grab an empty 2 liter bottle...put the tube on the bleeder, and in the two liter. crack open the bleeder, boxed in will work but a flair nut wrench is better it wont strip it. open up the valve and have a friend pump. check fluid leven in mc...keep it sorta up. i like to take a turkey baster and suck out the old fluid and pour in clean to start with. keep pumping till the fluid is almost clear coming out of the calp. more will come out when you bleed it later. move to each corner doing this. i used almost a full quart of valvoline doing this. helps to jack the car up at each corner and put the whole thing on jack stands and take off the wheels just makes it alot easier. bleeding them is a little different. pump the brakes, hold, crack open the valve, let the bubbles come out, close it before the pedal hits the floor or close. dont let the pedal hit the floor tho, heard that can damage the MC not sure tho. eric did mine quicker than i did and they felt better to...guess my ******* way doesnt work well. oh well. theres some tips
