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Z28=mullett
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493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how hard of a job is this? is it unreasonable to think that i could do it myself? how thorough is the FSM at explaining the process?i am no mechanic, but i put the intake header and exhaust on my car without a problem, and my friends dad is good with cars. i have my mom's car to drive for a week, and im sure i could get it knocked out in that time, has anyone done one that is not an excellent mechanic? i am a poor high school student, so i would like to save all the money i can, but should i just go ahead and cough up the $200ish to have a professional do it?
 

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too many toys
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386 Posts
Well, I just completed my first clutch job (on any car) about a month ago. Its certainly not an easy job, but with the right tools and plenty of patience, you could certainly do it yourself (it really helps to have a second hand too). I did mine in one of those crappy tiny apartment garages - just barely enough room. It took me the entire weekend, but again, it was my first time and I wasn't in a hurry (which helps).

I would suggest reading through all the online info about changing a clutch first, and see how you feel afterwards. :) I know there are at least two write ups with pictures. I think the hardest part for me was figuring out how to support the engine when the transmission is off the car (there is only really one motor mount attached to the engine at that point). I guess some people support the engine from above (beats me how) and the factory service manual says you have to unbolt some of the exhaust stuff.

If you do go ahead and do it, make sure you do it right by getting the flywheel resurfaced, and replace everything (disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, seals,...).

Aaron
 

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Z28=mullett
Joined
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493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok well we definitely have all the tools we'd need, as well as an engine hoist(cherry picker thing) and all air tools, and probably 5 days to do it. does anyone by chance have the URL of the write ups?

Thanks
Parker
 

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Professor Dingbat
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5,543 Posts
I was thinking aobut replacing the clutch soon and I am in the same fix (poor high school student lol).

Anyways you have C-8's? I ordered a set of gunmetal ones like 2 months ago and so far nothing. Do they really weigh only 8 lbs? (that's what the guy said, it seems a little light) What tires do you have? I was thinking Toyo Proxes T1-s
 

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803 Posts
I've helped rip trans's out of alot of FWD cars. We used a USDM spec bumper support for an Celica All-Trac with a chain holding up the motor from two support points (usually hooks on the side of the motor). It's really nice to have an impact gun to take the hubs apart when you take the axles out. Pneumatic power tools make everything easier to take apart and put back together. FSM are the best but a Haynes will suit this job just fine. You're also going to need a jack and stands. Make sure you have everything disconnected from the trans when you drop it, also when you drop it a trans jack is great, but a regular car one is fine if someone is controlling the descent of the trans and someone on top holding it on the jack. Finally getting the trans back on the motor is the biggest pain in the ass during the whole job. Other than that, a week is a good amount of time to learn it. You are going to need someone elses help.
 

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pwnd
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3,455 Posts
Well its not insurmountable. Id say the hardest part is building the courage. Then trying to get the tranny back up and on the engine. There really isnt any easy way of doing it...we tried jacks, jackstands...everything. Came down to me bench pressing it and putting it onto the engine after 3 or 10 tries. Doing it like Jez and others suggest with the axles still in might be even tougher. Taking both axles out, replacing their seals, and then pulling the tranny would be the easiest way...lower it with a jack, but putting back up usualy easier to do on your back. It requires alot of disasembly to get to all the bolts...but 2 people could do it not knowing how to with a FSM in a weekend taking their time.
 

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Z28=mullett
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493 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
FastNX, officially, the wheels are 11.8lbs each. i love them so far, and am running Pirelli P700Zs in a 205/50/15..... i bought the wheels with tires used, so i didnt choose these tires, nor would i really reccommend them. back in my working clutch days, i couldnt really get a great launch on them on the street, although PlanoSER, who i bought them from, pulled many 2.2 and even 2.1 on them at the track. Tires that i'm looking into when i get new ones: Falken Azenis-these are supposed to be the best value going right now, and my friend has them on his interga type r and they are awesome; Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position- regarded as some as the best tires money can buy, and on sale now at tire rack for 78/tire in 195/50/15; Kumho 711-probably a crappy tire, but theyre 38 bucks, who cares!!(remember, we're poor HS students :rolleyes: )

Oh and guys, the more i think about it, the less i want to do this clutch myself.............. yet again i have to put my car in James Vick's hands:rolleyes: no tellin how much he'll rob, errr.... charge me for this time:p :D :p
 
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i do them all the time. from my standpoint, not too hard. from yours, it might be harder. you'll need a 32mm axle socket, 1/2 breaker bar, set of 10-19 mm 6 point sockets, 3/8 ratchet, two jacks, JACK STANDS, rags, tranny fluid, and some assorted 3/8 extensions would be nice. take out your battery. jack the car up pretty high so you can fit under it easily. pull the axles by breaking theaxle nut, balljoint, tie rod and sway bar bolts loose off of both passenger and driver side. pull out on the hub and the drive axles may pop out. if they don't thread the axle nut back on so that it lines up with the end of the driveshaft and smack it with a hammer. take the nut off and it should pop out. drain the tranny, pull the axles. oh, be sure to unbolt the three passenger driveshaft support bolts off the back of the block. undo the clutch cable and the couple of plugs(depending on your model). to make things easier, take out your airbox and intake pipe. undo your starter or take it out(easiest to take it out). take out your cross member. put a piece of wood and bring one of the jacks and support the motor. take off the tranny mount(three bolts) start undoing all those pesky bolts(FUN FUN FUN)you can pretty obviosly see what bolts need to come out if you look. if you can't find em, buy a FSM (you should have one anyways). at this time you can start worrying about the tranny falling off and crushing whatever is under it. you can use authority taking of the bolts, but be careful about it. once you have the bolts out, place a jack under the tranny (you do not have to have a second jack, it's rather heavy though) start rocking the tranny off the input shaft. once it is off, you'll see the clutch and pressure plate. WOW, was the fun or what. putting it back in is a little tougher, mainly cause sometimes the friggin thing just doesn't wanna line up or the rear motor mount can be a real whore sometimes. to put it back together, just reverse directions. if you are worrying about where the bolts go once you have them out, label them, use ziplock bags or keep the seperated in old egg cartons. have FUN.
 

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They're just cones!
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1,941 Posts
I've done mine twice on my car, and helped on a couple of others. It's really not that bad woth a good set of instructions, like Ron's from the post above. Just plan on taking three times as long as you expect. You just need some help dropping/raising the trans (it's about 70lbs). By all means do it yourself, you'll save money, of course, but you'll have the pride of knowing you did it yourself, which is worth a lot more to me.
 

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862 Posts
The skill level to do a clutch job is higher than the skill level required to do an intake or an exhaust, but don't let that scare you off. You hear this saying all the time, but if I can do it, so can you. Really. All you need are the right tools and a good set of instructions. Armed with those two things, I was able to do the job by myself, except for one part (getting the tranny back on). You should really have an FSM, but the Haynes manual along with all the advice you're getting here and on the various sites will suffice.

Just go through the entire process several times in your mind, and you'll realize its all just nuts and bolts. There's nothing complicated about it. When I had the tranny out, I took a step back and realized that yeah, that was a bitch, but there's nothing mentally challenging. The hardest thing about it is getting some of the stuff to come loose.

Now for the practical advice:

1) Trying to get the tranny on/off with a jack is a total PITA. Just get a buddy to help. Have someone benchpress the tranny, while the other person leans into the engine bay and guides the tranny from above. I got the tranny on in one try with this method, after trying for about an hour to do it by myself with a jack.

2) Protect the threads on the axles! I thought I was being careful enough, but I damaged one of the threads slightly. No biggie, I thought. Then I tried to screw on the axle nut and the metal that came off the damaged thread totally ****ed up the rest of the threads. It took about 3 hours with a metric thread file (try finding one of those at your local Autozone!) to repair the threads, and get the axle nut on all the way.
 

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Of Topic Count: 11,684
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1,168 Posts
man you can do a clutch in a weekend, it wont take 5 days!
the most annoying part is just getting the transmisson off cause you need to pry it kinda from the block and that rod thing that sticks out...(what is that?) anyway wance you get that the clutch is held together by 8 screws, if i remember corectly...oh yeah dont loose tranny bolts like i did :-( but tis not that bad, right tools, and **** you can have it done in 2 days, one day to take it apart, one day to put it back together!
 

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ClamSlut
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5,043 Posts
I guess it depends on how attached to your money you are. I've never done an se-r clutch (havn't owned this car that long), but I've done two honda clutches. Me personally, I'm lazy. Its alot easier for me to make 200 bucks, so I won't do clutches anymore. They're just annoying.
 
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well i just finished up a integra tranny swap. forget it, i will never touch one of those for under 300 bucks labor. PITA compared to a sr20 job. maybe cause i have done a lot of them, but to me the sr20 powered cars are VERY user servicable. and yes, that rod that sticks out in the bellhousing is technically called an input shaft
 
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