[classicaddict]

ok, bought the car 1 month ago and did a break service that day (machine rotors, scuffed pads, lubed sliders.) well the rad blew up and it was sitting in my yard for about 2 weeks. drove the car yesturday for about 15 minutes out to jensens shop for install my VRS...........drove my car back to my place (10-15 minutes) and noticed a "smell" figured it was the antifreeze burning off the engine still)

turns out my front right brakes are not releasing. the rotor is milkly(glazed) and the pads were smoking their asses off. however i have driven it to and from VA without issue 2 times now. how possible is it that the caliper is frozen? what can i do to fix this? i plan on cleaning all the greese out of the slider pin. and playing with the piston with a brake caliper compresser.......i hope its not the caliper because i dont want the car down for another week.:squint:

 

[CovertRussian]

I believe a similar thing happened to my bro's Maxima. From what I believe his breaks were locking up or something of that sort, but the car does have ABS.

We drove that car from Harrisonburg to Virginia beach and back, 4 people, 4 bikes on the roof. 100+ mile trip. We were thinking the poor gas millage was because of the bikes on the roof creating air dynamic resistance. But when we got home noticed that the breaks were locking up. Thank God we were able to get home alive.

But I think he replaced all the breaks and rotors, and that did the trick.

 

[Char]

deleted

 

[classicaddict]

Did you do the brakes yourself or a shop? If it was a shop go back and let them know. If you did it yourself, double check over Everything you did.. maybe when you lubed the sliders you messed something up and its those that are locking? I dont have too much experience with brakes though so I cant say.

im a nissan tech, so i did the brakes my self at jensens shop (its a DIY shop...long story) any who, im buying new rotors today and im going to get the real expencive "disk brake lube" i think the fact i used wheel bearing grease (all i had) last time may be the reason for this.

 

[classicaddict]

got 2 new rotors. took both sides aparts and clean EVERYTHING. wire brushed the clider clips that the pads rest on, brake cleaned the hell out of the holes the slider bolts go in. used a bench grinder/wire wheel combo and polished all 4 slider pins till they were nice and shiny. then i packed some real nice slick grease in the silders, put a thin film on the caliper slider plates, use a die grinder/sander and clean off the hub face of all rust. sand blasted the entire brake pad and put new high temp paint on the backing plate, then sprayed a layer of "brake stop squeel" aka Pad glue. AND THE STICKING BRAKES ARE NO MORE:biggthump

 

[DC Scotty]

Hey.. Please help me do mine too?? They are squealing...

My teeth is still shuddering from the drive home last night ! !
I removed the front mount today and it improved by 30%.

Ordering OEM for both today !!!

 

[MR-4Door-SR20DET]

got 2 new rotors. took both sides aparts and clean EVERYTHING. wire brushed the clider clips that the pads rest on, brake cleaned the hell out of the holes the slider bolts go in. used a bench grinder/wire wheel combo and polished all 4 slider pins till they were nice and shiny. then i packed some real nice slick grease in the silders, put a thin film on the caliper slider plates, use a die grinder/sander and clean off the hub face of all rust. sand blasted the entire brake pad and put new high temp paint on the backing plate, then sprayed a layer of "brake stop squeel" aka Pad glue. AND THE STICKING BRAKES ARE NO MORE:biggthump

^This is some really good info. When I install my stainless steel lines, I'm going to be doing all of this. I can amagine this helping out a whole lot. Old thread I know I know, but worthy of being bumped.