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Discussion Starter #1
well, my freeplay is welll out of the tolerable level. it's about 1.5 inches long and now its become so long that it doesn't even pop back up! yes, that's right! when i lightly press it down, it won't go backup.

anyways, i thought i might play around with the settings a bit. i checked out a copy of Chiltons and the directions looked pretty straight-forward.

is there any tips or tricks that i should be aware of? it's kinda hard working in that tight little space
 
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Yeah, it's a PITA. Don't waste your time taking the seat out though. Mine got like that and really heavy too. I put in a new cable for like $25 from a dealer. 2 hrs. 30min. work/1.5 figitin.
 
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by AFSE-R:
I put in a new cable for like $25 from a dealer.</font>
I have a 91 G20, I am wondering that if the part number for the clutch cable is the same as the SE-Rs. The clutch on my car is getting really really heavy, squeaks loudly, and there has no freeplay to it. I had it adjusted but the freeplay is getting less and less as the time goes by. I think it is almost time for a new clutch,,,,,,,


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Nelson
"What is a G20 stands for?" G-spot 20x.........
 

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I just did my clutch cable, and what a difference! Mine clutch was stiff as hell, and I was worried that it was going to be something in the transmission, but the cable did the trick. I used a cable out of a wrecked SE-R with 70k on it, and it’s like a dream.

It's really not that hard to do. You'll need to remove your intake plumbing to get to the clutch adjusting mechanism. Once you’re there, unscrew the adjuster as far as possible so you’ve got lots of slack, then unhook the cable from the transmission. Now that there’s no tension on the cable, it’s easy to unhook it from the clutch pedal. I was able to unhook the cable from the clutch pedal in about thirty seconds, and didn’t even have to lay upside down on the seat to do it. Just feel around the top of the clutch pedal (you really can’t see much up there), you may need to hold the cable end with one hand, and work the pedal up and down a bit with one hand, but it’ll come right off.

The cable goes through a mounting bracket that’s bolted to the firewall. My car has cruise control, and the CC motor is right above the clutch cable mounting bracket. The CC motor is held in place by two 10mm bolts up high in the wheel well, and one bolt in the engine compartment. To get it out, you’ll have to remove the driver side wheel and wheel well splash guards. Now that that’s out, unbolt the clutch cable bracket from the firewall. The clutch cable has a large molded surround which passes through another bracket on the tranny about a foot back from the cable end. Just pull the cable through the hole, pop it out of ANOTHER bracket closer to the firewall, and snake it up and out.

Installation is basically the reverse of removal, just keep these few items in mind. Slip the cable through the firewall, and tighten the mounting bolts (not hand tight, because you’ll forget to snug them up later). Route the cable through the two other mounting brackets, but don’t hook up the transmission end yet. Now hook the cable up to the clutch pedal while there’s no tension on it. I had a hard time getting the cable to snap into the bracket closest to the firewall. I finally wound up using a long ratchet extension to push it in place.
The adjusting mechanism has a tendency to rust, and since it’s a spot with so little room to play, I put a bit of wheel bearing grease on the adjusting nut, lock nut and threads. This should save me a bit of time next time I need to adjust it.

Once the cable’s all mounted up, you’ll need to adjust out the free play and set the pedal height. I just do it by feel, so you’ll have to play with it.

Any questions?


Cheers,
Chris Scarpulla
 

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The pedal freeplay on my car is totally messed up. The pedal is set to about 6" off the floor. And the free travel is 2-3".

I adjust it with the locknut and the bolt above the pedal but it slips back to how it was before.

The clutch starts engaging right off the floor too. I have a new clutch cable which is set as tight as it goes, but the friction zone won't move up away from the floor.

What am I doing wrong? Thanks!

Sherman
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i actually like it when the clutch engages very low... so can operate it without dragging the ball of my foot or lifting it off the ground.

anyways you can control the engagement point at the end of the clutch cable in the engine compartment--below the airbox and near the resonator.

its very simple. i do believe the pictoral diagram is on se-r.net under maintenance.
 
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