SR20 Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
HP10 PRIMERA
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm pretty much stumped on this one. When I start-up my se-r when engine is fully cold, it would jump to 3000 rpm and quickly drop down to 1500 and gradually drops down to 800 rpm. It's annoying me and was wondering if anyone has any answers. Did a search and found a couple of threads but nothing that would rev that high. I did the following to the car already to try and solve the issue...

-cleaned iacv/aac
-cleaned tb
-adjusted tps to .48
-regrounded maf and verified voltage
-checked for codes and came up w/crank sensor signal problem but I have a fidanza.
-replaced 02 sensor
-replaced cap/wires/plugs(bkr7e)
-installed t-bolt clamps/silicone couplers/fresh hoses

I initially had a surging issue and these steps took care of that problem for the most part. Also, vacuum is at 18hg.

I'm suspecting that it could be a faulty ARV or a faulty coolant temp but it's not throwing any codes.

Thanks in advance for the help!
 

·
Big Cheddar fan club
Joined
·
1,466 Posts
Ben... bring it down and I'll take a look... if nothing else it would be good to see you.
 

·
Is an SE-R/VE a VE-R?
Joined
·
2,262 Posts
Cold fast idle problem - the VEs are particularly prone to it, but as far as I know it's just annoying, not a problem. I don't remember (sorry!) what the de setup looks like, but can you adjust the fast idle cam to lower the initial cold idle?
Jer
 

·
HP10 PRIMERA
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
To further help w/ my diagnosis, here are the mods.

370cc injectors
aem fpr
bluebird turbo kit
hotshot ic kit
jwt 4bar/bored maf/9.5 program
bored maf
walbro 255 lph pump
3" dp
2.5" exhaust
fidanza flywheel
ngk bkr7e plugs
jdm de
 

·
agent camel toe
Joined
·
9,396 Posts
reset the base idle--check the v on the ect with the key turned/and when on..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
605 Posts
well,usually when ur car is cold it idles a little higher,but for it to idle that high than i stumped on that one.but who knows,it might be normal.i wouldnt realy worry about.as long as its driving right and everything seems normal than dont worry about it.i think my friends DE-T does the same thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
605 Posts
and u definately need a new exhaust..that 2.5 is good but a 3 inch would be alot nicer..waht kinda of exhaust u got on there?
 

·
agent camel toe
Joined
·
9,396 Posts
and u definately need a new exhaust..that 2.5 is good but a 3 inch would be alot nicer..waht kinda of exhaust u got on there?
the cars for sale so Ben is trying to cure the buggies 1st
 

·
HP10 PRIMERA
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I understand about the 2.5 and 3 inch difference. To be honest with you, 2.5" is still good for the car. It's a VRS 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust system. I had a 3" VRS system on my old SE-R turbo and it does work better but like t-bags said, the car is for sale and I am now 95% done with the bugs.
 

·
agent camel toe
Joined
·
9,396 Posts
Here is your solution:

+




Let me know how it burns out:rofl: :rofl: :teehee: :biggthump :teehee:
:rofl: but take off the cf hood first--what v is ur coolant temp sensor with the key turned/idle--try unplugging her and then start the car- u can bypass the arv..when it warm reset the base idle
 

·
HP10 PRIMERA
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
For those who care. I fixed the high idle on start-up. I ended up replacing my AAC/IACV with a new one. Set the tps to .50 and adjusted the idle and checked timing. Car starts up at 1400 rpm and drops down to 750:). But I set it to 850 rpm just for a better idle feel.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top