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Discussion Starter #1
I have a red '95 200sx (B14) that has a turbo that was installed at Haas Pro Turbo - now out of business :(. It has a T28 and intercooler, with a JWT computer that is designed to use the 300ZX MAF, and also an E-manage.

I bought the car from a guy in Hartford last November. I am not a mechanic, but I am an engineer at a company you would all have heard of. But I figured it would be better to rely on someone else's technical expertise before making this purchase. I took it to XX Tuning in Hartford for them to check it over. I had them install a cat and hook up the O2 sensor to it. They gave it a "clean bill of health", but it immediately failed inspection when I brought it back to Massachusetts.

I had noticed a strong fuel smell, and the people who failed it said that an injector was leaking (wrong.) There was also this hot start issue that made me walk home once, and stranded me at the airport another time. When warm, it seemed that I could stop once and re-start, but not twice.

I only drove the car for one week, then I took it to a dyno equipped tuning shop here in MA, fairly close to my house. They found a bunch of things wrong with the car, including no connection to the front O2 sensor, a leaking fuel rail, (I bought a good used one from a guy on the forum) among other things.

Now they seem to have things straightened out, but this hot start issue has them stymied. One time it won't start because it is too lean. Pull the plugs, they are dry. Put the plugs back in, this time it will flood, they pull the plugs and they are wet.

It is this inconsistency that has them puzzled. The owner of the shop suggested maybe someone on here might have a stock computer I could borrow to try it, to see if that fixes it.

Help! :confused: I have a car I have only driven one week! I'm not looking to go faster, but I want reliable (but fun) transportation! And I think the sr20 is a great engine! I used up my entire car budget buying the car, and don't have the cash to blow $150 on another computer, when that might not even solve the problem!

Any help you guys can offer me will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Spectraman
 

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SE-R NUT
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419 Posts
why an e manage and a JWT? change the fuel filter. check your fuel pressure regulator, check your plugs and gaps.
 

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merely a flesh wound
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It is this inconsistency that has them puzzled. The owner of the shop suggested maybe someone on here might have a stock computer I could borrow to try it, to see if that fixes it.
I don't know what your car's problem is but DO NOT put a stock ecu in there, because the ecu program has to match the injectors and maf, plus have timing and fuel curves for a turbo.

I assume Hass installed the correct program for the injectors and maf, and if so, I think you should start by removing the emanage, because it's probably there just for fine tuning, but it's adding a level of complexity you don't need right now. I would also suggest you pull the ecu, open the case, and unscrew the JWT daughterboard so you can read the model number off the eprom. Call JWT with that number and they will tell you exactly what program is on that chip.

Since the car was built a while ago, and you don't know if the previous owner changed anything, you need to try and establish a baseline. Disconnecting the eManage and determining just what ecu program you have is a good place to start.

C
 

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agent camel toe
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9,396 Posts
I have a red '95 200sx (B14) that has a turbo that was installed at Haas Pro Turbo - now out of business :(. It has a T28 and intercooler, with a JWT computer that is designed to use the 300ZX MAF, and also an E-manage.

I bought the car from a guy in Hartford last November. I am not a mechanic, but I am an engineer at a company you would all have heard of. But I figured it would be better to rely on someone else's technical expertise before making this purchase. I took it to XX Tuning in Hartford for them to check it over. I had them install a cat and hook up the O2 sensor to it. They gave it a "clean bill of health", but it immediately failed inspection when I brought it back to Massachusetts.

I had noticed a strong fuel smell, and the people who failed it said that an injector was leaking (wrong.) There was also this hot start issue that made me walk home once, and stranded me at the airport another time. When warm, it seemed that I could stop once and re-start, but not twice.

I only drove the car for one week, then I took it to a dyno equipped tuning shop here in MA, fairly close to my house. They found a bunch of things wrong with the car, including no connection to the front O2 sensor, a leaking fuel rail, (I bought a good used one from a guy on the forum) among other things.

Now they seem to have things straightened out, but this hot start issue has them stymied. One time it won't start because it is too lean. Pull the plugs, they are dry. Put the plugs back in, this time it will flood, they pull the plugs and they are wet.

It is this inconsistency that has them puzzled. The owner of the shop suggested maybe someone on here might have a stock computer I could borrow to try it, to see if that fixes it.

Help! :confused: I have a car I have only driven one week! I'm not looking to go faster, but I want reliable (but fun) transportation! And I think the sr20 is a great engine! I used up my entire car budget buying the car, and don't have the cash to blow $150 on another computer, when that might not even solve the problem!

Any help you guys can offer me will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Spectraman

the coolant temp sensor is probably shot...that will cause the non-start when hot
 

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agent camel toe
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9,396 Posts
He's on the money.
it happened to me thursday night..after 1.5 hrs she fired right back up...that night i hooked up the scanner and the voltage on this thing was off the scale:tongue: :rolleyes: ...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
why an e manage and a JWT? change the fuel filter. check your fuel pressure regulator, check your plugs and gaps.
Yeh... I thought that was kinda strange too, however the JWT is necessary to accomodate the 300ZX MAF. I think Hass used a pretty standard JWT module, and put in the e-manage to allow for more tuning potential.
The shop sent the module to JWT, and they said it just adjusts for the MAF and removes the rev limiter. The rest, like accounting for the injectors' flow rate (62 lbs/hr) turbo fuel map, timing, is all done in the e-manage. The e-manage also hooks to a boost pressure sensor that the JWT setup by itself lacks.
I agree with chriscar, getting the e-mange out of there would help diagnose the issue, but with the setup they way Hass designed it, I don't think it's an option. Unless I put in a stock set of injectors just to start it up with.
Swapping in a stock computer would involve opening the computer, inserting the JWT module, and hooking up the e-manage. Unfortunately, the way I under stand it, all 3 (original computer, module and piggyback computer) are needed for the car to run correctly.
On the fuel pressure thing, it was very low, and they replaced the fuel pump, now it is right where it needs to be. Has an AEM rising rate pressure regulator.
Plugs are new and gaps are fine. Now.
Do any of you have experience with Hass stuff?
Thanks for your help so far.
I will definitely bring up the coolant temp sensor to the shop that has it.
Please correct me if you think some of this is incorrect.
I am obviously a newbie when it comes to this, and have a lot to learn.
 

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J-SPEC RICE BURNER
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344 Posts
ok i dont know if this will help any but i have had the same problem since day one. if you are driving for a while and shut it off to run in the store it wont start and stay runing unless you play with the gas pedal. almost like its flooding then after it clears up it runs like a champ again. i have called jgy and they told me that there is a hot start issue with some of these cars for some reason. they told me that they talked to jwt and they told them that what happens is the starter draws so much power that it wont fire the plug porperly. they also said that you need to cut a wire on the back of the ecu and put a switch in line. on for cold starts and off for hot starts. i dont remember what wire it is but if you call jgy or jwt they will be able to tell you. there's my $.02 let me know if it works
 

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subscribe...
I seem to havesimilar problem. ... it starts up cold no problem, and even starts up right up after shutdown... but if I wait 10 to 15 minutes after shutting down, it is an absolute bear to re-start. I have suspected the coolant temp sensor, and have even bought a new one... I plan on installing it soon to see if it fixes the problem.
I am running an n/a S13 sr20DE ECU with a bikirom daughterboard.

-dave
 

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Baby Blue VVL
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3,202 Posts
ok i dont know if this will help any but i have had the same problem since day one. if you are driving for a while and shut it off to run in the store it wont start and stay runing unless you play with the gas pedal. almost like its flooding then after it clears up it runs like a champ again. i have called jgy and they told me that there is a hot start issue with some of these cars for some reason. they told me that they talked to jwt and they told them that what happens is the starter draws so much power that it wont fire the plug porperly. they also said that you need to cut a wire on the back of the ecu and put a switch in line. on for cold starts and off for hot starts. i dont remember what wire it is but if you call jgy or jwt they will be able to tell you. there's my $.02 let me know if it works
*Old Thread alert*

I am having the EXACT same problem with my new motor. It fires when cold but I have to play with the gas to start it when it's up to temp
 

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sleeper
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5,445 Posts
I had the issue of, difficult to start when warm, pop up after 5 years of being turbo; it'd still start but it would have to crank for about 10 seconds before catching. I never got around to fixing it because it was a 1-in-25 chance of happening, and it always started regardless.

BUT, I think someone mentioned a bad PCV valve can cause the issue. Not sure why but.... heck, it's a cheap part to change, like $5.
 

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SR powered S13 coupe
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I had a similiar issue to this when my battery was remote mounted (under my seat). It was finally fixed when I replaced my ground wire to the battery and went to a larger power cable (4 gauge was not big enough).
 

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interesting... but why do you think the problem surfaces when the engine is hot?
(my battery is in the trunk)

-dave


I had a similiar issue to this when my battery was remote mounted (under my seat). It was finally fixed when I replaced my ground wire to the battery and went to a larger power cable (4 gauge was not big enough).
 

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I have the exact same problem too and it seems to happened rigth after JWT ECU and turbo install, but I know the car will always start after cranking for a few seconds. I think the coolant temp sensor has something to do with, cause sometimes when I drove in cold temperatures the temp sensor started bouncing crazy.
 
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