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I've never really been happy with the way my ACT HD PP and street disc has felt. It feels like it's either on or off, no middle ground, and the pedal felt stiff to me. My wife had trouble driving the car, so that made it difficult to switch cars if I needed hers. I pretty much quit driving the car a few years ago because I hated the way I drove it. After searching, I saw people swapping B15 clutch pedals in, so I figured I would try that out and maybe get the old girl back out again. I went to a local pull a part and picked up a B15 clutch pedal, master cylinder, slave cylinder, and all the hoses that went with it. The B15 parts don't line up without having to drill holes, so I went back and found a '96 Maxima, and pulled the pedal and master cylinder.

The first thing I did after I removed the old parts, was to remove the spacer on the firewall. It's tack welded in 1 spot, so if you grab it in the middle and turn it back and forth a little, it will come off. It left a small hole where the weld was, but we'll take care of that in a few. I also had to trim the firewall blanket a little. The Maxima pedal lines up perfect with the factory holes, but it uses 2 other bolts that don't line up. After a few trial pieces, I made this bracket at work out of stainless

View with the pedal installed:

The next issue was the Maxima reservoir hits the ledge on the firewall. I'm very picky when it comes to my car, and I didn't want to cut anything. Looking at the B15 parts, I tried swapping the reservoir parts between them, and it fit.

I thought about using the B15 master cylinder, but it would sit at an angle, and I was worried about not getting all the air bubbles out. To fix the hole from the spacer spot weld, I traced the gasket that came off the stock B14 clutch cable part that bolted to the firewall, and again used some scrap stainless. I painted it black to match the car.

I wanted to use the stock B15 hard line, but the B15 MC port is on the top, and the Maxima is on the right side. I tried bending the line to fit, but wasn't happy with it. I bought some 20" hard brake line and bent my own. The 20" line was just enough, and I'm still using the B15 short rubber line to give some room to move as the engine moves back and forth.

I needed to cut the B15 bracket that holds the rubber line down some to fit behind the bracket that holds the factor airbox.

I'm still using the airbox bracket because my cam switching parts for the VE sit on a shelf that bolt to that.

Another problem I ran into, was the non threaded part of the clutch pedal studs, hit the nuts before the MC and pedal were tight. I used some exhaust manifold washers and that did the trick. The adjustment rod on the master cylinder also hits the clutch pedal now, so I removed 1/4 of it since it was extra the way the setup was when I removed it from the junked car. With the clutch adjusted in the car now, I still have some threads showing, so that will work.

I did all of this before dropping the transmission to replace the clutch release arm. This part is discontinued from Nissan, so I got lucky and found someone who put a B15 transmission in a P10, and they had the arm for sale. I wasn't sure about the return spring that's behind the TOB, but pictures I've seen of stock B15/P11 setups, plus the FSM, showed the B15 did not have this part, so I left it out. The arm and the slave cylinder bolt right up to the B14 transmission, but make sure you have the stock B15 spacer for the slave cylinder.

The last issue I dealt with was the cruise control vacuum box. The master cylinder was in the way, so it needed to move. Looking around the engine bay, I found an area under the throttle body on the VE, that it looked like it would fit. With the brackets removed, it was a perfect fit. I needed to use some flat steel has a bracket, but now it looks like stock. The vacuum line was rerouted, and I cut the factory harness off a junk car and extended the stock wiring. I've never cut a harness in this car, and I wasn't going to start now. The clutch interlock wiring was too short also, so I had to make that longer as well, or you can short the wires out to not need to press the clutch in to start the car.

The result was a clutch pedal that feels like there is an OEM clutch in the car. I had a friend come by and drive it, and he said it was just like his. The Maxima pedal sits in the same spot as the stock one did, but it's a little higer, by maybe 1/2" or so. It's not enough to really notice it. The car should have come this was from the factory.
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