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1998ccs of fury
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Thanks to Serban and floridasr20s.com for permission to mirror this writeup!


On this page you will find steps on how to install your own clutch. Be sure to read each step carefully, and pay attention to each procedure being taken. Depending on your skill level, it will take quite a few hours to complete this job, so make sure you do it on a day when you have some extra time. You don't want to rush and mess something up.

Items needed: Pressure plate and clutch disc of your choice, Throwout bearing from Nissan (if you want to change it), pilot bearing (again, if you want to change it, not a necessity), Jackstands, Tranny jack or hydraulic jack, clutch alignment tool, 32mm socket for axle nut, Various size sockets, and ratchets (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm), sandpaper (if you decide not to get your flywheel resurfaced).

Now you are ready to start. The steps below were done on a 1991 Sentra SE-R, so it may or may not be the same on other SE-R models. The clutch that was installed was an ACT heavy duty pressure plate and kevlar disc.



Step 1: Very first thing you need to do is loosen up the axle nut, and lug nuts, do this before jacking up the car. Once that's done, jack up the car, and remove the wheels. Remove the 2 17mm nuts and bolts that hold the strut into hub. Do this on both sides. Remove the axle nuts from both sides, and and take the axles out of the hubs. It may be a bit difficult to take the axle out, so use a board and hammer if the axle is stuck in the hub (put board over axle end, and hammer the board until axle is loose).

Step 2: Once you've made it this far, sit down for a bit, and take a break if you have to. Next, get under the car, and remove the drain plug from the transmission to let the gear oil come out. You will need a 1/2" drive ratchet or bar to remove this. Put the plug back in. Next take out the 3 bolts that hold the passenger side axle in. They are 12mm bolts. Once these bolts are off, the axle should come right out. The driver side axle does not NEED to be taken out, but you can always remove it if you need to change it, or replace the axle seals.

Step 3: While you're under the car, remove the shifter linkage from the transmission. It is a 12mm nut and bolt. There are also 4 more bolts under the car that hold the transmission on to the block, go ahead and take these out. 3 of them are 14mm, and the other is 17mm. Next remove the transmission mount, 3 14mm bolts. Use a tranny jack or hydraulic jack to support the transmission while you remove the rest of the bolts. Start taking out the rest of the bolts along the transmission where it bolts up to the block. These are all 17mm bolts, except for the 2 holding up the starter. Make sure you note where each bolt came from, and keep them all together. To get to some of these bolts you may have to take out your intake and battery.

Step 4: Make sure you unplug all of the switches, and wires. Also take off the clutch cable, and speedometer cable off. With all this done, you are ready to drop the transmission. Slowly lower the jack. If the transmission does not separate from the engine, double check to see if you got all the bolts. If that's not the case, use a flat head screw driver and try to pry it off. Make sure the jack is still near by, you don't want to have the transmission fall. Once you can wiggle the transmission free, you need to slide it back towards the driver side, then drop it down. You will probably have to take it off the jack then slide it from under the car.

Step 5: At this point your are halfway done. Take off the pressure plate bolts, they are 12mm. It may be tricky since you may turn the whole flywheel. You can either take the flywheel off and take it to get it resurfaced, or you can use some sandpaper (eg. 80 grit) and sand it.

Step 6: Use the clutch alignment tool and put the clutch disc in place. Slide the pressure plate over it, and start bolting it down. Before you bolt it down too tight, keep checking to see if the clutch disc is still centered. Once the pressure plate is bolted on good, remove the clutch alignment tool.

Step 7: Next step is a bit tricky, and may take some time. You need to put the transmission back on. Best way is to slide it back under the car, and lift it up from the bracket that holds the clutch cable while someone slides the jack underneath it. Have someone jack up the transmission, while the other person holds on to it and makes sure it doesn't hit anything. Try to position it as best as you can, and start putting the bolts back in. Everything else is the same as taking it off. And before you forget, put gear oil back in the transmission before you go driving again.

The original writeup, with images, is located here.
 

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deenice2k said:
Don't you have to adjust the clutch cable afterwards? If so, how do you adjust the cable properly to adjust clutch pedal being too high or tool low?
You cant adjust the clutch cable much because there wont be any clutch distance between the clutch and flywheel because its still new.

You'll have to adjust it from the pedal.
 
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