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OK, here is a little write up after the install this past weekend. We learned a few things and clarified some things that we thought we knew.
What you need for Cams only:
10mm to remove valve cover nuts
10mm and 12 mm to remove valve cap bolts
24mm for cam bolts
1" or something to possible turn the cam with. If no 1" wrench, then get a 1/4 extensions to block the cam gears from turning.
Zip ties
wooden chain block per JWT specs (click for picture) attach rope or zip tie to it help you pull it out.
What you need additional to do springs and/or retainers:
5mm Allen head socket
10mm Allen head socket
Lisle Tool pn# 36200 (click for image) Buy it HERE
Compression tester with end to fit your air compressor
air compressor
heavy hammer
skinny screwdriver
To Change Cams:
Remove spark plug wires.
Mark/scratch distributor and housing next to it with a straight line so you can install distributor back in the exact spot.
Remove distributor by removing 1 or 2 bolts. Have a rag ready under when you remove as it will drip some oil.
Remove valve cover. There are 13 bolts all the way around including 1 longer one in the center.
Turn crank until at Top Dead Center. Two thing will tell you this. 1. The pointer on the front cover will be lined up with the mark on the crank pulley (very easy with the G Spec pulley :biggthump) and the Dowel Pin on the Exhaust Cam will be straight up at 12 o'clock
Zip tie at least 2 zip ties on cam each gear and chain. Nice and tight so they won't come off.
Place wooden chain block down inside between the gears between the chain. This keeps the tensioner still to.
Put your 1/4" extension through one of the holes in the cam gear in a place where it will allow the least rotation as you loosen the cam gear bolt. Once it is loose it will turn out by hand.
Once both gears are off and pushed aside, it's time to remove the cam caps. I do this in about 1/2 turn increments in a sort of pattern, but the trick is Slow and Steady wins the Race. Do NOT turn one all the way out and move to another. You might break the cams. Just go slow and turn a little at a time and move around.
Once all the caps are out, set them aside in order. The cam is now ready to come out.
Sometimes the cam will be tight and you just need to jiggle it a little and it will come out.
When they are both out, you can move to springs and retainers step. If not read ahead.
Re-installing Cams:
Try to remember where the dowel pins were positioned when removing and re-install the cams as close as possible to the same position.
Install cam caps by using the same cautious, turn each bolt a very little at a time method. Hand thread them until tight and then start 1/2 turn or so at a time. When the caps are down all the way, tighten sorta hand tight. Make sure it's tight but don't crank down on it.
Get the gears lined up to dowels as best as you can. You can use a wrench to turn the cam to help, and if you need more slack you can turn the crank pulley a little too.
When the gears are installed be sure to tighten the cam bolts pretty good.
Cut off zip ties and reinstall valve cover.
Re-install distributor, lining the scratch marks you made earlier up. Install the spark plug wires and fire it up.
What you need for Cams only:
10mm to remove valve cover nuts
10mm and 12 mm to remove valve cap bolts
24mm for cam bolts
1" or something to possible turn the cam with. If no 1" wrench, then get a 1/4 extensions to block the cam gears from turning.
Zip ties
wooden chain block per JWT specs (click for picture) attach rope or zip tie to it help you pull it out.
What you need additional to do springs and/or retainers:
5mm Allen head socket
10mm Allen head socket
Lisle Tool pn# 36200 (click for image) Buy it HERE
Compression tester with end to fit your air compressor
air compressor
heavy hammer
skinny screwdriver
To Change Cams:
Remove spark plug wires.
Mark/scratch distributor and housing next to it with a straight line so you can install distributor back in the exact spot.
Remove distributor by removing 1 or 2 bolts. Have a rag ready under when you remove as it will drip some oil.
Remove valve cover. There are 13 bolts all the way around including 1 longer one in the center.
Turn crank until at Top Dead Center. Two thing will tell you this. 1. The pointer on the front cover will be lined up with the mark on the crank pulley (very easy with the G Spec pulley :biggthump) and the Dowel Pin on the Exhaust Cam will be straight up at 12 o'clock
Zip tie at least 2 zip ties on cam each gear and chain. Nice and tight so they won't come off.
Place wooden chain block down inside between the gears between the chain. This keeps the tensioner still to.
Put your 1/4" extension through one of the holes in the cam gear in a place where it will allow the least rotation as you loosen the cam gear bolt. Once it is loose it will turn out by hand.
Once both gears are off and pushed aside, it's time to remove the cam caps. I do this in about 1/2 turn increments in a sort of pattern, but the trick is Slow and Steady wins the Race. Do NOT turn one all the way out and move to another. You might break the cams. Just go slow and turn a little at a time and move around.
Once all the caps are out, set them aside in order. The cam is now ready to come out.
Sometimes the cam will be tight and you just need to jiggle it a little and it will come out.
When they are both out, you can move to springs and retainers step. If not read ahead.
Re-installing Cams:
Try to remember where the dowel pins were positioned when removing and re-install the cams as close as possible to the same position.
Install cam caps by using the same cautious, turn each bolt a very little at a time method. Hand thread them until tight and then start 1/2 turn or so at a time. When the caps are down all the way, tighten sorta hand tight. Make sure it's tight but don't crank down on it.
Get the gears lined up to dowels as best as you can. You can use a wrench to turn the cam to help, and if you need more slack you can turn the crank pulley a little too.
When the gears are installed be sure to tighten the cam bolts pretty good.
Cut off zip ties and reinstall valve cover.
Re-install distributor, lining the scratch marks you made earlier up. Install the spark plug wires and fire it up.