Here's what you need:
BABB(bigass breaker bar)
24mm socket (for cam sprocket bolts)
27mm socket (to turn crankshaft)
10mm socket
12mm socket
various extensions
25 and 26mm or 1" and 1 1/16" box end wrench
Inch-Lbs torque wrench (a good one at least)
Assembly lube or straight 30w or 50w oil
Patience
Access to a FSM or diagram of proper order for torquing and removal/install sequence of bolts
Preferably an impact gun
ZIP ties
white out or nail polish
lots of rags
HIGHLY SUGGESTED: Valve cover gasket kit (like $35 from a parts slinger)
Here ya go:
1) Remove spark plug wires and all the crap hoses connected to the valve cover
2) Remove valve cover accoring to removal sequence in FSM
3) Mark the top metal part of the distributor where a 12mm bolt with phillips head center part sits, so that when you replace it, you line it up properly....use a sharpie. Then remove the distributor. 2 12mm bolts and pull it off. BEFORE DOING THIS, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!!!!
4) Remove the oil filter. Put a rag over it. Now look at a little cap thing right near the filter location with 2 10mm nuts. Remove those and pull out the unit, it's the tensioner. We'll get back to that later.
Here's the fun part. Take the BABB and turn the crank pulley until it's at 0* timing (2nd mark from the left) and make sure the little dots on the sprockets are 10 o'clock on the intake side and 12 o'clock on the exhaust side. Use that white out/nail polish to mark the sprocket AND the chain. Clean off those parts first so the stuff sticks
5) Remove the camshaft main caps according to FSM sequence. I can't stress that enought!!! Now
6) Now use that BABB with the 24mm socket to turn the cams side to side....do it one at a time. This will break the cam loose and allow you to pull it out while the sprocket is still on. It is VERY important that you also keep a hand on the chain and keep it as taut as possible.
7) Upon removal of both cams, zip tie the chain to either the a/c line or other so that it remains taut while you do the next things.
8) Take the cams over one at a time, use an impact gun with the 24mm socket to remove the sprocket bolt. Use that 25mm/26mm or 1"/1 1/16" box end wrench to hold the cam from moving, and wrap the rest of the cam in rags for extra caution.
9) Put the new cam back on the appropriate sprocket with the dowel pin in the correct place. Make sure the cam goes on the appropriate sprocket!
10) Time to torque it down. I'd say 80ft-lbs is a safe number to torque them down to, but once again, use that box end wrench and BE CAREFUL! You don't want to break your beautiful new cams!
11) Lube the cam with assembly lube or that heavyweight oil. Put one cam at a time back in the proper location, mating the chain mark with the sprocket mark. The cam will not perfectly slide into position...so don't fret! Just make sure the chain tooth and sprockets you marked match up.
12) Take each main cap and lube the channel and groove accordingly, then place in the appropriate location. Then tighten them down according to FSM sequence. Don't worry if it gets a little tough, the main caps essentially guide the cam into place. This will take some time, so be patient.
13) Torque the caps into place once again according to FSM procedure. Make sure you know how to use the inch-lbs torque wrench!
14) Time to reinstall the distributor. Just remember to line up your marks.
15) Reinstall the tensioner. Before doing so, you'll notice that it's spring loaded and has a plunger. You must press the release thingie on the unit to push the plunger down and use the hook to hook it. Now reinstall the tensioner. If you're unable to get enough threads to put the nuts on, crank the crankshaft with the 27mm socket to put some slack into that part of the chain, I'd say crank clockwise JUST A LITTLE BIT! Then continue to reinstall the tensioner. Check FSM specs on it. Then, go around each cam bolt and crank bolt and turn them just a little bit to get the slack out, you'll hear the tensioner clicking as you do it.
16) Use that new valve cover gasket kit you got on the VC. You'll see where stuff goes. Then put the VC back on and tighten in appropriate sequence.
17) Reinstall the hoses and spark plug wires, reconnect the battery.
18) IF you did everything right, the car should start right up, make some nasty clacking for like 10 seconds or less...and then be smooth. Depending on your cams, after the car warms up it'll develop a nice lope
enjoy! Mucho thanks to other writeups and Coalitionse-l
BABB(bigass breaker bar)
24mm socket (for cam sprocket bolts)
27mm socket (to turn crankshaft)
10mm socket
12mm socket
various extensions
25 and 26mm or 1" and 1 1/16" box end wrench
Inch-Lbs torque wrench (a good one at least)
Assembly lube or straight 30w or 50w oil
Patience
Access to a FSM or diagram of proper order for torquing and removal/install sequence of bolts
Preferably an impact gun
ZIP ties
white out or nail polish
lots of rags
HIGHLY SUGGESTED: Valve cover gasket kit (like $35 from a parts slinger)
Here ya go:
1) Remove spark plug wires and all the crap hoses connected to the valve cover
2) Remove valve cover accoring to removal sequence in FSM
3) Mark the top metal part of the distributor where a 12mm bolt with phillips head center part sits, so that when you replace it, you line it up properly....use a sharpie. Then remove the distributor. 2 12mm bolts and pull it off. BEFORE DOING THIS, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!!!!
4) Remove the oil filter. Put a rag over it. Now look at a little cap thing right near the filter location with 2 10mm nuts. Remove those and pull out the unit, it's the tensioner. We'll get back to that later.
Here's the fun part. Take the BABB and turn the crank pulley until it's at 0* timing (2nd mark from the left) and make sure the little dots on the sprockets are 10 o'clock on the intake side and 12 o'clock on the exhaust side. Use that white out/nail polish to mark the sprocket AND the chain. Clean off those parts first so the stuff sticks
5) Remove the camshaft main caps according to FSM sequence. I can't stress that enought!!! Now
6) Now use that BABB with the 24mm socket to turn the cams side to side....do it one at a time. This will break the cam loose and allow you to pull it out while the sprocket is still on. It is VERY important that you also keep a hand on the chain and keep it as taut as possible.
7) Upon removal of both cams, zip tie the chain to either the a/c line or other so that it remains taut while you do the next things.
8) Take the cams over one at a time, use an impact gun with the 24mm socket to remove the sprocket bolt. Use that 25mm/26mm or 1"/1 1/16" box end wrench to hold the cam from moving, and wrap the rest of the cam in rags for extra caution.
9) Put the new cam back on the appropriate sprocket with the dowel pin in the correct place. Make sure the cam goes on the appropriate sprocket!
10) Time to torque it down. I'd say 80ft-lbs is a safe number to torque them down to, but once again, use that box end wrench and BE CAREFUL! You don't want to break your beautiful new cams!
11) Lube the cam with assembly lube or that heavyweight oil. Put one cam at a time back in the proper location, mating the chain mark with the sprocket mark. The cam will not perfectly slide into position...so don't fret! Just make sure the chain tooth and sprockets you marked match up.
12) Take each main cap and lube the channel and groove accordingly, then place in the appropriate location. Then tighten them down according to FSM sequence. Don't worry if it gets a little tough, the main caps essentially guide the cam into place. This will take some time, so be patient.
13) Torque the caps into place once again according to FSM procedure. Make sure you know how to use the inch-lbs torque wrench!
14) Time to reinstall the distributor. Just remember to line up your marks.
15) Reinstall the tensioner. Before doing so, you'll notice that it's spring loaded and has a plunger. You must press the release thingie on the unit to push the plunger down and use the hook to hook it. Now reinstall the tensioner. If you're unable to get enough threads to put the nuts on, crank the crankshaft with the 27mm socket to put some slack into that part of the chain, I'd say crank clockwise JUST A LITTLE BIT! Then continue to reinstall the tensioner. Check FSM specs on it. Then, go around each cam bolt and crank bolt and turn them just a little bit to get the slack out, you'll hear the tensioner clicking as you do it.
16) Use that new valve cover gasket kit you got on the VC. You'll see where stuff goes. Then put the VC back on and tighten in appropriate sequence.
17) Reinstall the hoses and spark plug wires, reconnect the battery.
18) IF you did everything right, the car should start right up, make some nasty clacking for like 10 seconds or less...and then be smooth. Depending on your cams, after the car warms up it'll develop a nice lope
enjoy! Mucho thanks to other writeups and Coalitionse-l
