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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well i got my hands on a free sentra.

its a black se model. its got some high miles, but they are all from my grandmother. now the problem is this... the clearcoat on the hood is peeling and its an automatic.

whats the potential on this thing?

if at alll possible, 300hp or something crazy like that would be nice... and maybe a 'tuned sleeper' look... (as in no body kits, maybe a lip, and some nice wheels)

budget for it all... 4500 engine. 2500 everything else...
 

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SR20VE or a T28? I dunno!
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Search this forum like crazy and check out www.se-r.net
 

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JordanWhiteMusic.com
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jrbell said:
well i got my hands on a free sentra.

its a black se model. its got some high miles, but they are all from my grandmother. now the problem is this... the clearcoat on the hood is peeling and its an automatic.

whats the potential on this thing?

if at alll possible, 300hp or something crazy like that would be nice... and maybe a 'tuned sleeper' look... (as in no body kits, maybe a lip, and some nice wheels)

budget for it all... 4500 engine. 2500 everything else...

Oh boy........... since you are working with $7000 you might want to consider getting rid of the GA16DE engine and swapping in an SR20DE, or even an SR20DET if you're mechanically inclined, especially if the original motor has high miles. It is a common swap and there are great writeups from those who have done it.

The GA16DE has only 110 horsepower and really needs alot of NA mods to even compete with a stock 140 horsepower SR20DE. However it can be done but you will see minimal results for a decent chunk of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Storm88000 said:
Oh boy........... since you are working with $7000 you might want to consider getting rid of the GA16DE engine and swapping in an SR20DE, or even an SR20DET if you're mechanically inclined, especially if the original motor has high miles. It is a common swap and there are great writeups from those who have done it.

The GA16DE has only 110 horsepower and really needs alot of NA mods to even compete with a stock 140 horsepower SR20DE. However it can be done but you will see minimal results for a decent chunk of money.
im down for swapping... but what about the tranny?
 

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JordanWhiteMusic.com
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You need the transmission as well. Here is a list of everything you need to complete the swap:

1991 Sentra SE to 1991 Sentra SE-R conversion:

(1) SR20DE 2.0 liter motor

If possible purchase a motor with the complete wiring harness already attached to the motor, and with alternator and power steering pump.

(2) SE-R Transmission

Preferably one from a 91-96 SE-R with Viscous limited slip differential, not one from an Infinity G20, this one doesn't have VLSD. The way to tell them apart is that the one with VLSD has different size differential oil seals where the axles go in on the transmission, one seal is larger that the other. Now, the one without VLSD has the same size seals on both sides, and of course the axles are different on both type of transmissions, G20 and SE-R.

(3) Motor Mounts

Three of the four motor mounts are interchangeable from the GA16DE. The one that is different is the one on the front side of the motor, which would be if you're standing in front of the car looking down at the motor, on your left side, the one next to the alternator/pulley side.

(4) ECU and ECU frame bracket holder

The SR20DE ECU is different than the GA16DE, if you don't know. The ECU frame bracket holder is also different, this is what holds your ECU on your car, even the four screws that hold the ECU to the holder are different.

(5) Wiring Harness and Alternator wire harness

You need the complete motor wiring harness that goes to the ECU and also the alternator wire harness. The alternator wire harness from the GA16DE might work, the connector plugs right into the SR20 alternator, perfect fit, but the only thing is that the wire harness is a little short in length. If you can make it reach it'll work. The end of the wire harness that goes all the way to the ECU has like three or four more connectors besides the one for the ECU that plug in behind the console where the ECU goes, don't worry they all plug in perfectly into your non SE-R chassis, that's how it was with mine.

(4) Axles (drive shafts/half shafts)

You need to get SE-R axles, they will fit perfectly into your wheel hubs. The SE-R and the non SE-R Sentras share the same hubs. NOTE: there is a bracket that attaches to the passenger side axle and the motor block. Make sure you get this, this bracket is what holds the axle in your tranny. The bracket does not come with rebuilt axles, it is consider a separate unit, three bolts hold it to the block and three small 10mm bolts hold it to the axle. The driver's side axle goes in the old fashioned way just like the GA16DE, a C-clip holds the axle in place.

(5) MAF (Mass air flow meter/sensor)

This also is different than the one from the GA16DE. Don't forget the wide rubber hose thing that goes between the MAF and the throttle body, this is also different, if you get a complete aftermarket CAI then you won't need this rubber hose thing.

(6) Headers/Exhaust Manifold

This unit is bigger and different than the 1.6. The SR20 downpipe goes all the way to the catalytic converter, it bolts right into your 1.6 catalytic converter. The SR20 downpipe has flex tubing not like the two piece piping with donut gasket in the middle that's on the 1.6.

(7) Radiator Hoses upper and lower

You can purchase the hoses made for the SE-R or aftermarket flexible hoses. If you get the SR20 radiator hoses, they will be too big in diameter for your GA16DE radiator. I used the SR20 hoses, all I did to make them fit was buy some reducer bushings for hoses from my local auto parts store, they are made for this kind of problem, I don't recall the size that I used. The reducers go into the radiator side of the hoses. If you get an SE-R radiator then obviously you will not need the reducers. According to my temperature gauge, the temperature is still the same with the SR20DE motor and the radiator from the 1.6 still in place, just like when I had the GA16DE motor. I added Water Wetter from REDLINE into my radiator when I did the motor swap, just to keep my temperature cooler, I hope this stuff is working.

(8) Power Steering Hoses

You will need the main high pressure power steering hose for the SR20 and also the power steering suction hose. This high pressure hose is kind of expensive brand new from Nissan, I think it was list price $170, I got it for $127 with the discount from the SER.net.

(9) AC compressor

I don't have air conditioning, so I for sure don't know if they're interchangeable. I know of someone with a 1.6 using a compressor from a 2.0. So it might be interchangeable, I haven't seen it with my own eyes so I can't really say that it'll work. NOTE: if you don't have AC and don't plan on having one on the SR20 motor, then there is a compressor bracket that attaches to the motor block, under the alternator, I guess where the AC compressor would go, once you find it, if it's there, remove it, it weighs almost as much as the flywheel if not kind of close to it, it is a very heavy big black bracket. You don't need it if you don't have AC.

(10) Alternator and Power Steering pump

You also need these for the SR20 motor, make sure you get all the mounting brackets also.

(11) Engine/Transmission Bolts

The bolts that hold the motor and the transmission together are different between the SR20DE and GA16DE.

(12) Air box with filter

I don't know if they're interchangeable, they look the same. I used a cold air intake from Hotshot. So I didn't use the stock air box.

The crossmember under the car is interchangeable, so is the shift linkage that attaches to the transmission, the only problem with the shift linkage is that you will need to adjust it from underneath the car, right under the console shifter, if you don't adjust it, the feel of where the shift points are, are actually moved back, on mine whenever the transmission was in second, fourth, and reverse, the shifter inside the car was hitting the plastic console where the shift boots attaches to it. It's a simple adjustment, you need to remove the exhaust shield where the linkage attaches to the shifter, all it is, is two bolts on the shifter/linkage frame underneath the middle of the car that you need to loosen up, once loose just slide the frame towards the back of the car all the way, that' s how it was on mine, it's not a lot of adjustment you have there to play with.

If possible try to get the instrument cluster from an SE-R, it plugs and screws right in to your non SE-R Sentra, no mods needed, well that's how it was on mine again, I already had a built in tach, the SE-R motor as you know redlines at 75k rpm the non-SE-R I believe is 69k rpm, and also the speedometer goes up to 150 mph on the SE-R compared to 130 mph on the non-SE-R, and also you get the option of putting on white face gauges from NR automotive with the SE-R gauges.
 

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Where are you located? JGY customs has some SE-Rs for sale for like $1000 dollars. That will get you everything you need. Visit www.jgycustoms.com/index.html
As for the body, maybe look into Rota wheels. And also look into Sunny front grills and bumpers. They give a clean look.
 

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Sell the car for like 1500, then find a cheap 91-94 SE-R (stick) say under 3000. Then swap in a DET. That way you will have the sway bars and brakes. Swapping from a sr20de to a sr20det will be much easier than a GA to sr20det, and also you will not have to worry about the tranny swap portion.
 

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XE-R Overweight
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NISMOrob said:
Sell the car for like 1500, then find a cheap 91-94 SE-R (stick) say under 3000. Then swap in a DET. That way you will have the sway bars and brakes. Swapping from a sr20de to a sr20det will be much easier than a GA to sr20det, and also you will not have to worry about the tranny swap portion.
Best advice right there!
 

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now on the West side!
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Told ya jrbell. Sell that piece. Start off right, stay away from the Del Sol :p Drive my car. Become addicted to boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
NismoSER said:
Told ya jrbell. Sell that piece. Start off right, stay away from the Del Sol :p Drive my car. Become addicted to boost.
well.. i'll tell you this.. 90% chance im going with boost. i've been addicted for a long while now.

you know as well as i do... 200whp in 2303lbs car....

pure bliss.
 

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NISMOrob said:
Sell the car for like 1500, then find a cheap 91-94 SE-R (stick) say under 3000. Then swap in a DET. That way you will have the sway bars and brakes. Swapping from a sr20de to a sr20det will be much easier than a GA to sr20det, and also you will not have to worry about the tranny swap portion.
I give you my advice not to flame a GA-DET swap but as a person who has ben through a GA-DE swap myself, see sinature, I have learned my lesson. I have a friend who did a sucessfull swap but he will also tell you it was no fun. And the swap to a DET is hard enough for most. Find a nice se-r or NX2000 and give a det or VE a nice home.
 

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XE-R Overweight
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NISMOrob said:
but as a person who has ben through a GA-DE swap myself, see sinature, I have learned my lesson.
I also have a swapped 1.6-2.0 sitting in my backyard (put about 200 miles on it in the last 3 years). Its the bane of my exsistance heh. Save yourself a lot of time/money/life by selling this one, and buying another classic, but SE-R, which will have a manual transmission already on it.
 

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or you could try to swap a ve into the car you have now...many of the things for the sr20de swap will be similar, but you will have to modify the wiring harness some. cam it with the new cams jwt might make and have 200 whp with no intercooler or any sign of whats to come. :)
 

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damn, will swapping a U13 sr20det into a 1.6L '98 200sx 5spd be just as painful as every one is describing. Or is it because of the car that he has. This is just wishful thinking, I think I already knwo the answer to this. But hey...HOPE :)...let me know if it is just as difficult pls.

Thx
 

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Tru200SX said:
damn, will swapping a U13 sr20det into a 1.6L '98 200sx 5spd be just as painful as every one is describing. Or is it because of the car that he has. This is just wishful thinking, I think I already knwo the answer to this. But hey...HOPE :)...let me know if it is just as difficult pls.

Thx
it would be the same just no tranny swap u still need to get everything else i kno i did the swap in my 4 door b13 auto to manual tranny swap too but i wouldn't do it again way to much work... but if u want go for it and tell me how it turns out

fredo
 

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Man good info on this thread! Gotta go look for a cheapy 1.6 B13 now :D
 

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now on the West side!
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This thread is old!
 

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I say build the tranny and install a turbo kit for the GA16. I wouldn't bother doing a SR20DE swap and then going to a DET would be even harder. Besides an auto turbo GA16 B13 would be pretty rare and should beat up on any NA sr20de anyway.
 
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