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Enjoy the GTR Matt!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We wrapped it up, it started no problem, even drove it around the block.

Here is all I did: I put it back on stands to work on the exhaust, installed the dash, glove box, center console, power wires for the autometer guages and boost controller (tapped the cig lighter). Boost controller connected power and ground only, nothing else!
I installed the guage cluster, and slid the guage cluster dash surround nearly into place. Of course I had to repair the speedo cable again, the metal part came out of the sleeve in the engine bay.

I tried to start up the car for another spin around the block after my ghetto-mod to the exhaust, and now it won't crank.

ALL I get is the click of the relays next to the fusebox.

I used the FSM flowchart (page EL-18), checked fuses (2 in fuseblock for eng. control), fuseable links (both of them), swapped the relays under the dash, hotwired the clutch inhibitor switch, changed the clutch inhibitor relay with another from the car, made sure another relay was connected under the passenger kickpanel, pulled the starter and hotwired it to a battery (it spins using the diagnostic in the FSM AND when +12v is given to the normal signal wire on the magnetic switch).

I couldn't get the key out, finally figured out there was a security cable going to the key switch as the car was previously automatic, it was a safety thing so you had to put th ecar in park before removing the key. No big deal, the key comes out now. I was hoping that had something to do with it, and after 2 hours :-( got the starter back in by myself... you guessed it, still just the click of a relay next to the fuseblock.

ANYONE have an idea? It cranked, it ran, I put in some minor interior parts and now it won't crank.
 

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They're just cones!
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Battery dead, starter wires loose, bad ground. My guesses.
 

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Enjoy the GTR Matt!
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3,716 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
battery is new, I use it on my other car.
I took the starter out, and put it back in just a little while ago, remember? The wires aren't loose for sure.

Bad ground? Geez, which one? The interior stuff comes on, including the guages, boost controller, guage lights etc.
 

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91 SER Richmond, VA
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888 Posts
Take the car out and try to start it by pushing it and popping the clutch. If it stays on then its something to do w/ actually STARTING the car. All though, this is JUST an idea and ive never done it, so might wanna make sure it isnt going to kill your car before you do it...i just figured it might work.

-Mike
 

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They're just cones!
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Majestical69 said:
Take the car out and try to start it by pushing it and popping the clutch. If it stays on then its something to do w/ actually STARTING the car. All though, this is JUST an idea and ive never done it, so might wanna make sure it isnt going to kill your car before you do it...i just figured it might work.

-Mike
I've push started my car before, no problems.

EDIT: See if the solenoid on the starter is clicking, maybe check the voltage on the starter motor wires with a voltmeter.

Edit again: Do the lights dim when you turn the key to start?
 

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Enjoy the GTR Matt!
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3,716 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't know if I have enough driveway to push start it, I sure can't push it up that little hill to do it.

Nothing clicks but the interior relay, no starter click... at least that would narrow it down to a bad starter.
I checked voltage to the main wire, it has the +12v. the signal wire I can't test without someone hitting the switch, maybe tomorrow I can talk someone into turning the switch while I'm under the car.

The lights do not dim, of course I don't have them on anyway. The battery is good, my old battery I had for this project has a dead cell, so I'm literally carrying my battery from my daily driver to the project and back to go anywhere.
 

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it only takes about 10 ft to pop the clutch, says the man with no starter as part of the weight reduction :D
 

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even though you checked, I still gotta go with a fuse, maybe there's a starter fuse or something that's not allowing the ignition to activate the starter. I would re-check all the fuses inside and in the engine bay, then I would check the wires around the ignition switch.
 

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Enjoy the GTR Matt!
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3,716 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I checked the fuses 2x, fuseable links too. It has to be in the wiring somewhere. I already disconnected the main clip to the ignition switch (no relay click even after it was disconnected), and pulled the rest of them going to the wheel area, including the airbag one, then re-seated.

I tested the clutch inhibitor relay SOCKET, and I get ground on one lead (#3), but nothing else registers ground or +12v,I'm thinking I should get +12v somewhere....but I have the clutch switch installed again, I should try it hotwired together as well.

I'll chase all the wires on the whole freakin car if I have to, I already changed the entire electrical system from auto to manual.... it just ticks me off since we had it cranking easily and running, I park it and now it won't try to turn over.
 

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Could it be the neutral switch located above the clutch pedal? Mine has been acting up funny lately. All i hear is a click from the fusebox area if I don't engage it properly before turning the key. I would have to depress the clutch pedal fully before turning the key in order to start the car.

edit: Is that the "clutch inhibitor switch"? If so, I just read you replaced it already...nevermind.
 

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www.FAIRTAX.org
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Another thing that can cause intermittant starter problems is corrosion on the block. If the starter ground isn't good enough it wont turn.
 

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Enjoy the GTR Matt!
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3,716 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had the wife hit the ignition switch while I watched the tester on the starter signal wire, I get no signal, +12v or ground, nothing at all.

I guess I'll be inspecting the entire circuit from the key to the starter then.
 

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Rebuilding the W11:P
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This happened to me as well. JDM swap into my 93 NX2K. Somedays/times it would start no problems. Other days/times, and always intermitantly (sp?), it would do the relay click you described. It ended up being a plug-in on the tranny. On top of the tranny next to the wheel well, where there are 3-4 plug-ins mounted, I found two plugs will interchange. I thought they were all different to prevent this from happening, except for inj. plugs anyway, but it happened. Look at the 3-4 plugs, two look similar/identical. Light grey about 1/2 inch by 3/4 inch in size. Swap them and try it.
 

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My car had a cut wire coming from the steering colum, start at that steering colum and there are like 6 wires, a black with white tracer and a few others, theres about a foot of wire then a connector, check it there, then follow that wire into your engine bay, then check all relays and fuses, check battery, ground and clutch inhibitor switch. Good luck
 

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Rebuilding the W11:P
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R0b_ said:
aha! Great tip, I'll try it! You are talking about the ones under the battery tray/airbox mounting bracket, right?
Yeah. Right in that area. If you pull the ds wheel off and look straight at the tranny, between the tranny and the arch of the frame there is a 2 inch gap.
 

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Enjoy the GTR Matt!
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3,716 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well, that was not the problem. I studied the hell out of the FSM, wrote down each connector, looked up where it was located in the chain and started testing with the ignition switch, then the clip behind the ignition, then to the relay, I get power all the way to the relay.
I checked continuity between the connector mentioned above (it is a single wire going to a dual wire connector for future searchers btw), and the relay, it was good there, so I re-connected that clip and tried hot-wiring the relay (jump the two bottom connectors the ones that are close together) bingo, I get a spark and the starter tried to turn over.

I put the relay back in, nothing.

Hmm.. back to the tester and the book, and I checked all the contacts in the relay socket. I get +12v on two, nothing on two. That didn't sound right, so I traced the ground path, which goes from ground to the clutch switch (which I hotwired) straight up the brown/white wire to the relay. The brown/white wire did not have ground.

OK, so I finally found the problem. I had cut the clutch inhibitor wire about halfway up a LONG time ago for an alarm install, and hotwired it together then re-taped it... which is why it cranked initially without the clip installed on the clutch pedal. When I installed the dash, I found the clutch wire up with the guage wiring, so I had to pull it back down where it belonged, which of course messed it up inside the tape.

I just re-wrapped the wires together and the starter clicks, trying to turn over for a second, found the problem!

Now I just need a working battery instead of this dead POS and I'll be able to take her on the road tomorrow!
 
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