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Discussion Starter #1
Few questions before I tackle my Gen 4 Hotshot headers and UR underdrive pulleys:

1.) How far do i torque bolts for the header install?

2.) Torque specs for the pulleys?

3.) I remember reading in a past thread that the timing markings on the pulleys are wrong. Is this correct? If so, which is the TDC marking?


I think that's it for now as I prepare mentally for what hopes to be a very rewarding weekend.
 

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1) http://www.se-r.net/header_exhaust/header_install.html

That should give you all the torque specs and sequences for installing the header. I don't think it says this, but you might have to bend the EGR pipe coming out of the header. It will probably make contact with the fans the way it is angled coming out of the header. It's no big deal, but the noise may scare you. It will take a chunk out of the plastic fan blades too.

2) I believe it is like 100 ft/lbs. Just tighten the crank pulley down as far as you can. It's a huge bolt. Don't worry about torque on the others, just get them tight. You might have to bore out the center of the water pump pulley. I did. Also, be really careful removing the crank pulley. Don't drill or tap anything near it or you'll end up with a 10 hour front cover replacement project!
:eek: The Crank pulley bolt will be really hard to remove. Air tools would come in handy. It'll probably be jammed on there too, so you'll have to pull pretty hard to get it off. If you have air tools, I would suggest that you impact the crank pulley bolt down. You might want to replace the front main seal while you're in there. It's easy and inexpensive.

3) The newer pulleys should have the correct timing marks. Compart it with your crank pulley when you get it off. Lay them on top of each other and see if the marks line up. The crank pulley is keyed, so you won't have to re-adjust timing after you put it on.

Let me know if you need any other info. I've done both things before.

Ben
'93 NX
 
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Discussion Starter #3
So i don't need a puller to get the crank pulley off... as long as i'm careful?

Also, i take it this would be a good time to install ES motor mount inserts?
 

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You won't need to worry about the EGR tube. I think Ben is talking about the AIV tube, which we don't have.

You really should use a pulley puller.
I removed the crank pulley bolt by having my little brother stand on the brakes with the car in 5th gear. I had an open end wrench that was over a foot long. I sat on the floor and pulled and it broke free right away. I might have braced my feet against something since I don't weigh that much.

For motor mounts, it doesn't matter. You'll have to remove the dogbone to remove the part that bolts to the stock header. But the work comes when you have to mash the inserts into the dogbone.
 
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Continuing w/ the bushing topic... jacen, i take it you've done the motor mounts(front and back), but what about the shifter bushing?

Could you give me an installation summary for both... se-r.net was down last I checked, so can't see if they even have installations documented. Be as long-winded as you like, I am a novice.
 

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Yeah, I was talking about the AIV. I always get that emission stuff mixed up.

Maybe I wasn't clear. You do need to use a pulley puller. There are a couple of different types, though and I'm not sure exactly which one works. You have to be careful, though. We bought the type of puller that screws into the holes on the crank pulley. The holes were the wrong size for the puller I had, so we tried to tap the holes with a drill. Well, the crank pulley sits literally on top of the front cover and we ended up drilling through the front cover. That is bad.

The shifter bushing is cake. IIRC, it goes on the rod that sits next to the shifter linkage. Just unbolt the rod and take out the old bushing. The new bushing is in two haves and fits right in. Should take 10 minutes tops.

If you can get on se-r.net, there is a good write up on replacing the motor mounts. I used that s my guide.

Ben
 

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The holes were the wrong size for the puller I had, so we tried to tap the holes with a drill.
Don't try this. Find some metric bolts that are the right size. The pulley puller generally comes with american bolts.
I think I have posted the correct sizes before but I don't remember the sizes. I think I found a bolt with the right thread pattern that was too short and took that to the hardware store to find longer bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Am I getting at the shifter bushings from inside the car or below? Sorry, rookie question probably.
 

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You have to get at the shifter bushing from underneath the car. If you're lauying under the car on your back with your feet sticking out the front, you can see the shifter linkage where it attaches to the transmission. Just to the right of that, there is another rod. The shifter bushing goes where that rod attaches to the front of the car. I believe it attaches near the transmission and front crossmember.

Also, as far as the pulley puller goes, I would be careful how far you thread the bolts into the pulley. If you go too far, you could punch through the front cover.

Ben
 

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for the pulley puller, Sears has one that has a point in the center, so you just loosen the crank pulley bolt and start using the puller till it is backed off to where you loosened the crank bolt. Then just loosen the bolt somemore use the puller. It was pretty easy with that. The point just rests against the bolt so you don't have to worry about it damaging anything.

It looks like this.

 
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the advice. Hopefully I won't screw things up too badly.
 

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[
It looks like this.

[/B][/QUOTE]

I would say try that, but still be careful. I pulled a piece off pf my crank pulley using that kind o puller. YMMV. :D

Ben
 
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Discussion Starter #13
One last question: Should I put anti-seize on the header bolts or just the primary-secondary and secondary-cat bolts?
 

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all you need to do to get the pulley off is a set of long screwdrivers and walk it off, just be careful. our mechanics don't even use a puller, and I did not have a problem with it when I did mine, but as always ymmv, but ya, don't need to torque anything, and the w/p pulley is a total bitch to get on by yourself, unless you have really long arms, I was hugging my fender trying to get the bolts straight.
 
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