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I think it should be a pretty easy thing for your average local exhaust shop to do, right? Pretty much concerned with how much they shorten it and if they can easily tell how much to shorten it. Is this something so simple that it would be hard to mess up?

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Ben98SentraSE
98 Sentra SE TURBO
 

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Mike G had it sleeved between the cat and the resonator. When they get it on the lift you should look and tell them how much shorter to make it.

I don't remember if it was welded after they sleeved it. I would think you would want the sleeve welded together. Maybe that is the standard practice; I don't know.

[This message has been edited by jacen99SE (edited 03-08-2001).]
 

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pwnd
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I would think. What Younger(friends dad that owns an exhaust shop) would probaly do is this. Cut it in the straightest point in the pipe, if thats where it needed to be. Dont know the B14 exhaust layout well, would have to put the B pipe up there and see where the problem is, I would think its just and over all lenght problem not like the over the axle part. After the cut, Bend out the down stream side, and then slip the upstream side into it, that way the flow should be pretty smooth with only little eddys down stream not a block up stream. Then weld it in place. Now if the over the axle part is too long then you could have a little problem. Funky bends not easy to play with. But IIRC the reason is that the 98+ have a longer cat so I would think that straight point past the cat would be the part in question. Jack up the rear end lay under there and compare side by side what the lenght looks like. Also think Naji had on his site how to modify it. Or someone, I remember someone having a site on the modifyed exhaust, or was that Mike G?
 

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Ben just bring the car to the shop and tell them you need it shortend. Show them where its hitting and tell them to sleve it rite after the cat and tighten it up. If they don't understand then run away! far away!

Mike
 

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As I had access to a good shop and machinist, I measured the difference from the front exhaust hanger and cat, cut off the cat flange(b-pipe), shortened the b-pipe, then re-attached the b-pipe(no sleeving). Everything lines up perfectly.

Consider this, though: the rear section of the b-pipe that crosses over the rear axle touches the chassis on my 98 SE. I currently have the muffler section "riding low" to prevent mechanical vibration into the chassis. This will be rectified when I reform the rear of the b-pipe AND the muffler pipe - I will remove the muffler flange and necked-down section.

CB
 
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