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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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Alright, EXCELLENT! I really appreciate the great explanation and clarification. I removed the timing cover because I believe the chain guide bolt (slack side) may be loose. When I re-engaged the chain on the cam sprockets, I noticed the guide had a lot of movement in it. The forward and backward movement in the guide would be expected, but there was movement side to side, as well. It didn't seem right.
Do you happen to know if the slack-side guide bolt (and the corresponding guide) from the later SR20's reduces the possibility of that bolt loosening? I ask because the later bolt and guide are different from those of the earlier SR20's.
old guide and bolt 13091-53J01 and 13094-53J00

later guide and bolt 13091-2J202 and 13094-53J01 , 13094-53J01
 

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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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I verified the condition of the slack-side guide's bolt head. It is an allen-style bolt, and it is rounded out. I now have to remove that bolt, as it allows too much play in the chain guide.
 

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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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I wanted to ask you, How much movement is normal in the slack-side chain guide? I can move it front to back, which is to be expected, as it is pivoting on the single pivot bolt. What I am concerned about is that there is also horizontal movement at the pivot bolt. I am thinking this extra movement may have put more stress on the tensioner and caused it to fail. Not really sure about that, which is why I wanted to ask you.
I am aware that in the later G20's, Infiniti (Nissan) changed the guide and the bolt, which make think it was for some specific reason.

The bolt will not turn at all, loosen or tighten.
I pounded a 1/4 inch bit into the bolt's rounded-out Allen hex and used an impact driver to try to loosen the bolt but was unsuccessful.
The bit does not spin or move at all when I attempt to loosen the bolt. The impact driver does not have a great deal of torque.
Should I be concerned about the movement of the guide at the pivot point on the bolt?
 

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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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I'd say there is about an 1/8 inch of lateral movement on that guide bolt.
I want to replace the guide and the bolt because the new bolt has threads that run all the way up to the base of the bolt neck/collar, which would eliminate that lateral movement in the guide.
 

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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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UPDATE:
I was able to remove the slack-side timing chain guide bolt. I removed the Allen hex bit I had pounded into the bolt head and shocked the guide bolt with a large, hefty bolt and a mini-sledge. I then heated the gude bolt's Allen hole using a propane torch. I held the torch on the bolt for about 1.5 minute, and it came right out. I stopped when I noticed the plastic on the guide had started to melt.
The odd thing is I saw almost nothing on the bolt threads when it finally came out. Nothing wet, red or blue or gummy.
There is still the same lateral movent of the guide (new guide, new bolt) as it pivots on the shank of the bolt, about 1/8 in. of movement. I assume this movement is normal because the new bolt will not go in any further, and the amount of movement with the new combo installed is the same as the movement I saw with the old guide and bolt combo.
 

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im pretty sure thats normal.i'm gunna put this to you. in 1994, these de engines came out with an old style tensioner (not as long, course teeth design) and then they went for 300,000kms without a hiccup. the only issue was cold start, when this then worn chain made noises like a dodgy starter motor, and a slapping sound on the then top guide. never heard of piston to valve contact from a worn chain, and the solution was the new style tensioner that pushed the chain further in, negating the slack. after that, the next solution was engine out, new/ s/hand motor in, and go again.
 

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Good info., Thank you. That is reassuring. My old-style tensioner failed due to the latch that engages on the teeth failing. It just rocks loosely in place, with no tension making it bite onto the teeth on the plunger. I replaced it and will be switching out the guides and their bolts with the later versions. Now, I just have to make sure the dowel keys on the crank and cam sprockets are oriented correctly so that the timing will right. I appreciate the feedback.
 
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