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good i wanna kno too

when i leave the car for a while and come back to start it...the motor turns over as if it were to start but doesnt, i have to do that once or twice untill the car starts, then when its starts, if i shut it off instantly, and start it back up again, it starts right back up...as if nuthing was wrong

the battery seems pretty good to me,

so i came to the conclusion that my injectors are prolly leaking and bleeding off some fuel in the cylinder making it hard to start after its been sitting for 2 hours or so

today i pulled out the rail with injectors and everything attached, and placed some paper towel under it, i then turned the key on untill i heard the fuel pump primed up then went back to see if the paper towels were damp or what not, unfortunatly i found nuthing...so tomorow ima pull em out again and leave it under the paper towel over night and see if i see any dampness under any of the injectors....
 

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I would do what he sugested. That's the way I test injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You mean removing the spark plugs wires one at a time?

I got nothing from that. However I'm wondering if that's b/c it's just not that bad yet...

Maybe the nest step is to swap their spots and see if there is any difference.

I dunno, sounded like it really really could be it, but I'm not so sure now. :(
 

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I had a leaky injector and my car ran like crap. The cylinder wouldn't fire because there was too much fuel being dumped into the cylinder. At least that's my hypothesis. I know one cylinder wasn't firing as a result. Mileage was crap.

I just got a whole extra fuel rail and injectors from a JDM motor, and I was back in business. Too bad you've got a lowport...swapping injectors and fuel rails on highports are easy.
 

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chucky200sx said:
You mean removing the spark plugs wires one at a time?

I got nothing from that. However I'm wondering if that's b/c it's just not that bad yet...

Maybe the nest step is to swap their spots and see if there is any difference.

I dunno, sounded like it really really could be it, but I'm not so sure now. :(
No, I remove the rail from the intake, but leave the injectors and fuel lines connected. Turn the key to ON, but not start. This pressurizes the system, and it will show if you have a leaking injector. What are the problems you are having, that makes you think you have a bad one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
eric96ser said:
What are the problems you are having, that makes you think you have a bad one?
Where do I start.... in sum:

car is 20% lean at idle and when the engine is cold. There is absolutely no problems noted with the car. it has gone through extensive tests, and replacements. It's only slowly getting worse.

-Idles like a diesel.

-car is only lean at idle. When the technician hooks up a consult and electronically increases the fuel, the idle is completely fine. When he decreases the fuel a bit, it goes back to sounding like a diesel and bogging. The car also stalls when the engine is cold due to lack of fuel.

-he thinks it could be leaky injector.

The technician got me to unplug my o2 sensor and drive for a few days in open loop and see if the idle smoothes out any. He thinks the problem has worsened lately b/c of my 'newer' obx header, where the 02 sensor is only in two of the pipes, and if one of those two injectors are leaky, it will cause my sensor to see that the car is running rich, and make it lean to compensate.

However, as of tonight 24 hrs/150km later; unplugging the o2 sensor made no difference, and if anything worse.

So I'm not too sure if it is the injectors... I gues the best way is to just replace them????

I've got a replacement maf on the way too....

this is the original thread that has been going on for some time now.... there just doesn't seem to be any other solution.....

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=58802&page=1&pp=20

do ppl with b14s ever do valve adjustments? I guess I should do a search.... ;)

EDIT?: I see that they do not need to be adjusted... I wonder if something happened during the '91 cam swap though....
 

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I would use injector replacement as the last thing. I would go back and recheck the cam timing. You may have skipped a tooth. I would also swap the MAF, and check ignition timing. Also look at your spark plugs. That will tell you if one of the injectors are bad. How does the car drive? Does it hesitate, or seem slow? How long has it been since you changed the fuel filter?
 

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SR20DEtroit
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good i wanna *** too

when i leave the car for a while and come back to start it...the motor turns over as if it were to start but doesnt, i have to do that once or twice untill the car starts, then when its starts, if i shut it off instantly, and start it back up again, it starts right back up...as if nuthing was wrong

the battery seems pretty good to me,

so i came to the conclusion that my injectors are prolly leaking and bleeding off some fuel in the cylinder making it hard to start after its been sitting for 2 hours or so

today i pulled out the rail with injectors and everything attached, and placed some paper towel under it, i then turned the key on untill i heard the fuel pump primed up then went back to see if the paper towels were damp or what not, unfortunatly i found nuthing...so tomorow *** pull em out again and leave it under the paper towel over night and see if i see any dampness under any of the injectors....
Man, I'm digging up an oldie, but I'm having the same exact issue as described above. If you could shine light on to what your issue was, it would be much appreicated. :biggthump
 

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I have had a leaky injector before. The major symptom I had was hard starting when hot. The car acted like it was flooded (old carb-car term for a choke stuck closed and too much gas). If I held the gas pedal to the floor while cranking, it would start and blow a cloud of black smoke.

Injector leaks can be of at least two kinds I know of, one where the injector nozzle or pintle leaks, and one where an internal O-ring leaks. The solution for either of these problems is to get the injectors reconditioned. The shop will partially disassemble the injectors, clean them with special equipment, and reassemble them with new screens and new O-rings. They usually give you a before and after flow rate and flow pattern for each injector so you can figure out which injector was the problem.

The shop I go to charges about $100 to clean and recondition the set of four injectors. Given the age of our cars, a good injector cleaning is probably not a bad idea. Note that shops that claim to "rebuild" injectors are really just doing the cleaning I described here.

Cal
 

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Thanks for your response, Cal; my problem isn't hot starts. It's starts up right away if I turn it off and start it either:
- within 2 mins of shutting it off
- after 2-3 days of shutting it off; this is really weird because it starts up no issues no matter how cold it is outside within a split second

Flooding is probably happening but I'm unsure whether it is due to a bad coolant temp sensor, bad o2, bad AFPR, leaky injectors, bad MAF/ground, or other. If it is leaky injectors, your advice is golden for a fix for the injectors I currently have in the block. I may have to consider it, since I do have replacements, but they're 520s, so a retune would be req'd. I'm trying to keep the costs low for the moment.

S
 

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Thanks for your response, Cal; my problem isn't hot starts. It's starts up right away if I turn it off and start it either:
- within 2 mins of shutting it off
- after 2-3 days of shutting it off; this is really weird because it starts up no issues no matter how cold it is outside within a split second

Flooding is probably happening but I'm unsure whether it is due to a bad coolant temp sensor, bad o2, bad AFPR, leaky injectors, bad MAF/ground, or other. If it is leaky injectors, your advice is golden for a fix for the injectors I currently have in the block. I may have to consider it, since I do have replacements, but they're 520s, so a retune would be req'd. I'm trying to keep the costs low for the moment.

S

did you ever figure out your problem?
 
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