[Guest]

Hey guys---I am in need of help badly--I have a small emergency---I did the front brakes on my classic today and on the drivers side when I was screwing in the lug nuts--I couldn't get 3 of them on--I took them off and they were stripped on the first few threads---the studs looked ok--so I took a nut of another wheel and tried again--it made it on about 1/2 way then same thing. I am screwed now. I assume I need to replaced the wheel studs and buy new lug nuts. Can anybody please help me with where to buy these--about how much $$ and what is the procedure for this? Sorry for all the questions lately---but my service manual is not in yet--and I didn't want to waste money on one of the cheapies haynes or that other shitty one.

thanks again!!!

Mark

------------------
93 se-r
so stock--it is scary

 

[NXBen]

I pulled a bonehead move once and didn't tighten down my driver's side lug nuts. I broke a stud off and had them all replaced.

I took my car to NTB because they were the cloest to where I busted the stud, but I generally don't like them. IIRC, it cost me about $30 to get the studs and lug nuts replaced. From what I understand, you should be able to do this yourself and the parts should be avaliable at your local auto store. At least, that's where NTB got the parts for my NX.

Sorry that I don't have any specifics on sizes or part numbers.

Good luck!

Ben
'93 NX2K

 

[nigbot4000]

I just busted one of the studs on my tire and just had it fixed.
My friends own a tire shop and they charged me $20 and it is as good as new. That was just for one though.
Hope this helps a little

 

[brian]

get some studs, lugs, hammer and go to town, easy. I can change some studs in about 10 miniutes per hub including taking off the tire and putting it back on.

 

[Guest]

Do I need to remove the rotors and/or the calipers and which way do I bang them out--towards the engine--or from the back towards the tire----thanks again for your time---maybe I will attempt this after all!!!


Mark

------------------
93 se-r
so stock--it is scary

 

[Guest]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by massclassic:
Do I need to remove the rotors and/or the calipers and which way do I bang them out--towards the engine--or from the back towards the tire----thanks again for your time---maybe I will attempt this after all!!!


Mark

</font>

PLEASE?? :^)

I can't seem to figure it out by looks alone and someone outbid me buy 1 cent on the manual on ebay BALLS!!!!

------------------
93 se-r
so stock--it is scary

 

[Trys_Hard]

I stripped a stud 15 minutes prior to having to get into pre-grid at the SCCA Atwater pro and changed it out in time.
Take the calipers off and take off the rotor.
Get a good ball and peen hammer and carefully bang out the stud from the outside toward the center. place the new stud in the hole and use a box end wrench just big enought to fit around the stud and use you lug nut to pull the stud into the rotor. That's it. I would also use some lubricant on the stud and nut to keep it from freezing and stripping. You can get some just for that purpose at any autoparts store. Get the Nissan studs because they are better than the generic kind you get at the local parts shop. The front studs are longer than the rear but can be used all the way around.

Good luck

------------------
Art R.
1992 Sentra SE-R
SCCA Solo II Driver
Cal Club #823 E Stock

 

[Tigermiata]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by massclassic:
I am screwed now.</font>

Good pun.

Depending on the condition of the stud, a "thread chaser" might not be a bad thing; since buying a set, I've used them in all sorts of places. They're like taps & dies, excepts they don't cut as agressively, and are designed to straighten out existing threads instead of cutting new ones. Ther is also something called a "thread file" whose appearance and function should be obvious.

OTOH, if you've removed a not of metal (don't feel too bad, I once did this w/a spark plug on an aluminum head --ouch), you'll have more peace of mind replacing the stud with one that'll maximize the thread contact, eh? Or you could go too far, like I did on my "other car", and have the hubs machined to take Moroso drag-racer studs, which I cut down by hand (one hacksaw blade per stud and the teeth were gone). And I did this on the front, not just the back.