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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so i've had this problem for the life of my car and i finally realized what was going on. i had a noise whenever i made a hard right hand turn. i thought axles, bearings, tie rod ends, sway bar links, shocks, utterly everything. then as i'm putting my tein basics on, i realize that my rotor is making contact with the control arm. it cut a good 3/16" deep groove in my driver side rotor. there is even a wear spot on the arm itself. i did a little searching and it seems that nobody has a fix for this one. people were talking aobu the dust shield and stuff but i absolutly removed mine to avoid this exact problem. so it's hitting on the lower outter edge of the arm. it's making some good contact judging by the noise and wear on these items. i'm about to file the outter edge away but i would like to hear some more opinions before i go doing something like that. it only rubs after a certain amount of deflection. since i got the basics, the car doens't lean as much, so it doens't rubb as much either. only after like 3 inches of compression on the driver side front does it start to rub. thanks for the help guys let me know
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
somebody, anybody...even to flame...even to say what's up...i need attention!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
apparently i'm on the blacklist for tech questions
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
strange isn't the word man. no pics of it but lets just say there is a major groove cut into the rotor and it lines up perfectly with a wear mark on the outter edge of the control arm. this is on a b14 200sx se-r. everything is new but the control arm itself. i just had it aligned and they set it to 0 camber. but after i lowered my car i'm assuming the camber went to negative, and the noise is much less prevelant. i guess i gotta be the only one that gets this **** happening to them
 

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MIXMASTAP2 said:
strange isn't the word man.

Impossible is more like it. I can't think of anyway the rotor can contact the control arm, without there being significant damage to the suspension. We bringing my track car in soon, i'm gonna look and see how this could be possible.
 

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Yikes! I don't see how the rotor could contact the control arm unless you have something like:

-a bad ball joint
-oversized (damaged) ball joint location on the upright
-misaligned upper strut mount (accident?)
-bad upper strut bearing (unlikely)

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah i feel ya guys. my bro is a ME and he was deffinatly shocked. actually shitting a sailboat is a shock...this is a f83kin catastrophy. blair...i know this is hard to believe. i have a new balljoint, tierod ends, car was aligned, new hub and bearing. the only thing that isn't new is the ctrl arm. 60% of this work was done by myself (3 years service manager, 2 in shop) and the other was done when someone hit my car and it needed body work and stuff. this noise has been present since i got the car tho. i finally pulled everything off to find a rotor with a huge groove, and the pad had the corrosponding pad material hump. so the rotor was being grinded down not by the pad, because hte pad wasn't wearing in that 1/4 in spot. and there is a spot on my ctrl arm that is shiney metal and has scratches on it. and it happens to line up wiht the groove in the rotor. i will take pics if you still odn't believe me but on to what the problem is and not if you think i have it. i woud'nt make this stuff up cuz it's a huge headache.


could my wheel studs be stretched or something of that nature?? that may cause some deflection when under severe load. idk, would it be ok to file down the outter edge (no structural integrity problems)?? i need to fix this POS
 

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Your wheel or tire would make contact before the brake rotor.. and even then the turn radius of wheel is so far out of spec, one could only surmise that part of the steering rack is to blame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok see now we're getting somewhere. i would have to agree with you because my wheels deffinatly are not turning at the same rate. by that i mean at full lock my right wheel turns more than my left. what's odd is that the tires only rub during tight parking lot type stuff. i am running 2055015 on aftermarket wheels but i've had the problem before i got the wheels. what's the clearance supposed to look like between the rotor and ctrl arm?? as of right now it's only like 1/8" at most. what do you think about filing down the outter edge for the time being. i dont' mind getting a new arm but it's gonna have to wait a week or two. it's driving me crazy tho. and i can turn right wiht no problem untill i hit a certain point. then if i go too fast and the car is compressed on the driver side too much, it starts rubbing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
by rubbing i mean thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,thunk,...till i straighten out
 

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i think your crazy.... jk
maybe if you ever stop by I can take a look at it.
i would have to see it for myself
 

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Yes, a picture would be helpful. The uneven turn angle on your front wheels is normal - it is known as Ackermann, and is present in part to account for the different turn radii needed to steer with minimal scrubbing. Given what you said about it occurring at full lock, and all the new parts you have on it, I think your steering rack or tie rods are suspect.

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
car fax said the car was fine. but i realized 2 months after the fact that it was totally hit bad. i'm gonna get you guys some pics b/c i know this is hard to believe. the question is...how do i get a manual rack
 
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