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Well went out and bought some $15 Autozone front brake pads today since during the tranny removal and install we found one of my pads nearly gone. Put them on. They stop. They need to break in a few more days, but they seemed halfway decent. Getting NX brakes before February comes so no reason to get good pads now.

Oh, you wanna know how it runs.
Runs better than before. With the JWT clutch kit and the homemade motor mounts he car is SUCH a pleasure to drive. SO EASY to get the car moving from a stop since the clutch is really good and the engine stays in place. It feels so TUNED now. Now that the intake is quiet, you really get to hear the SR20DE and how smooth and nice it sounds. Feels like I'm driving a MUCH more expensive car.

Basically, the JWT clutch set it sweet. Already used to it. Haven't tried any other aftermarket clutches, but so far, I would recommend this one. Obviously still breaking it in so dunno how it's gonna hold to drag racing and stuff. We'll see

I have a little rattle in the rear shelf from the motor mounts, but it was there before, just more pronounced. Easily fixable. You get a nice massage too
They are DEFINITELY worth the $18!

Full boost comes on at about 4k, starts rising at 3k. Is that good? Gauge shows 5.8psi. That about right too? I know I have a little leak from the nylon hose to the gauge cuz whenever I boost I hear a little straw sucking sound where it goes thru the firewall. I bought a Sunpro nylon line for $5 from Autozone to replace it. Will do that tomorrow.

I no longer have the STB nasty vibes hitting the hood in reverse, but I now have some "thunking" when accelerating from the stop. Might be the STB, more likely the piping or IC. Will take a closer look later.

Any other questions?
 

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Mike, what did your boost gauge show without the boost controller? Not that I'm dissatisfied at all.
 

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I got it to hit 9psi with no I/C
Just a big ass pipe from the turbo to the TB boy was that fun


But SERiously Mine would top out a 6.5-7 rite after a 1st to 2nd gear shift then it would peter down to 5-5.5 as the rpm rose. Same thing with the 2nd to 3rd shift. In 5th gear it would hold a good 6.5-7psi until I let off and because I value my life a little that would usually be around 5k or somewhere in the area of 120mph.

Mike
 

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later in the week I'm going to remove the downpipe and go joyriding to feel sorta what it's like to have a 3" exhaust since I have a 2.5" downpipe and the stock catback. Then I am going to get a ghetto voltmeter setup like Ben Moses used for air intake temp and connect it to the MAF. Kojima says my 370cc's are maxxed out when the MAF hits 5.1v, so I will get a $10 bleeder valve from Lowe's and get the boost up to max out the MAF
 

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If I could find an exhaust shop that would do mandrel bends... hmmm... I ordered the mandrel bends for my IC piping from Hooker Headers thru Summit Racing... I can get 3" pipe there too... Hmmm... may have to jack up the rear of my car and find out what bend radii I would need to get and then maybe just take them to a shop and have them do the rest... need to consult with shops around here and see if they would do this and how much they would charge. Glad I thought of that!


Need to lookup how big in/out the Courtesy muffler is with the Greddy tip. I love the look of that thing!
 

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Ben,

I love my Courtesy exhaust, but I don't think you want the muffler section. It necks down to just under two inches at the midpipe-muffler flange(muffler side). Fine for NA, but you don't want that restriction now that you're turbo. Check out the other turbo guys mufflers and resonators(if yhe turbo needs one) - Carl, Mike, Searl, etc...
 

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Hello all .... (new to the Forum)

On my DET i used a 2.5 inch pipe and no resonator it gives great flow compared to the factory piping which kills quite a bit of power.
 
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