Well that is totaly dependant on the engine and how much damage you are willing to accept. I once heard stories of a guy getting a free K car, you know the reliant things, took it to the strip put a 200 shot of NOS on it ran it once got like a 12 sec pass then drove it home. I wanted to get me a free car and try this. On a sr20de that i was planning on running for a long time I wouldnt go more than 75 for me. probaly a 50 shot would have to decide when it was on the car. which will never happen, im not a squeezer.
I had a 70 shot on mine and leaned out a little bit. changed out the fuel pill and the nitrous pill down to a 60 shot and runs good and strong. I would not really want to play around with the 70 shot again until it gets cooler outside. detonation is a very bad thing to happen when it is 95 degrees at midnight
JWT sells a complete system that is guaranteed safe and it is 100hp shot. Ben says it'll easily get an SE-R with all the bolt-ons into the 12s. The safety is in the computer b/c it doesnt shoot until you push the gas pedal to the floor, which will then trip the NOS switch. The NOS will then continue spraying until you lift off the pedal or 300-500rpm (I think, cant remember) shy of the redline. The other safety factor is that it has its own daughterboard that is in conjuction with the main ECU and when the nitrous is activated, the ECU remaps according to the daughterboard which will richen the fuel, etc to prevent detonation. It sounds VERY nice!
what he forgot to mention is that the jwt 100 shot requires 300z injectors. the stock injectors are maxed out at about 250 crank hp. as soon as I get my cams, ignition, and a few other little odds and ends done, I am going to get a auto meter shift light that plugs into a rpm window switch and will turn on and off the NOS between the rpms I choose to run. probably 3k and 6.9k.
and 110 bux an injector and 250 for the pump, you have spent close to 2k, when you can have a 60-70 shot on your car for 500. sure it does not make sense, but hey, why spend the extra 1500 bux on 30-40 hp when you can buy an ecu and cams, and have an extra 500 bux to do some other crap to your car. that is the way I went b/c hey, are you gonna use the NOS all of the time? are you gonna use the ecu and cams all of the time? ya, if you got da money to blow, spend it, the JWT NOS kit is bad a$$, but if you are kinda weary of spending tons of your hard earned cash (depending on what you do for a living )) just go with a good NOS kit.
Brian, are you running the 5123 dry kit?
Or the wet setup?
I haven't installed mines yet since I had to order some extra parts for my kit. I'll keep you updated next week once i get it in. Maybe I can post some pics to help peeps with the install. Thanks for your help earlier...
Some of you have mentioned triggering the NOS manually via a flick switch, and others have mentioned the RPM method, where the NOS only kicks in between certain RPMs.
My question is, with the RPM method, is there still a way of disabling or switching off the NOS, so that it doesn't have to be used every time you hit the RPMs ? I'd like to get NOS installed, but because I drive a street car (it's legal over here in New Zealand), I would only want the NOS for those critical "red light races"
The JWT system is completely idiot proof. There is an arming switch, and then once it's armed it's completely idiot proof. You floor the car it comes on at a specified RPM while the car is at wide open throttle and changes the timing and fuel map for the nos and then a few huundred RPM before redline turns it off.
Mel I personally have run 125hp on NOS 4 fogger system.
That about all you can get with stock fuel pump, it still runs a little lean (not good). You can run 75hp all day. Don't know how much dry you can run. LOWER YOUR TIMING!!! I lowered mine 5 degrees for 75 more if you go higher.