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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i want to go turbo with my classic but i can't afford the all at once outlay of a BB or GTIR engine so i was thinking of something else let me know what you guys think. I am looking for about 250 to 300 reliable WHP with my primary concern being good power delivery.

I would like to get a GTIR manifold and a T-28 and then bolt these onto my stock engine with a cobra MAF the 370 injectors and a front mount intercooler and then run low boost (7-10 psi) and get everything running right with this and then buy the BB engine and just swap all the components out.

My concern is can i run the JWT program for the BB on my high compression hihg port motor? I would kinda like to get the ECU reprogrammed once but if i have to i can do it twice i guess. Also what other types of upgrades can i do to the motor NA that will transfer over to the BB in the long run. I know pulleys and Flywheel, but what else would be good to do that i am not going to toss when i go turbo.

Thanks for any thoughts and suggestions.
 

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BOOSTIN PROTECH STYLE
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Ok let's see here. You want to do it cheaply. Well if you have access to a welding machine you can make yourself a manifold log style out of Mild steel for around 40 dollars out of pocket, if you want to use a t28 just get a t28 flange and slap it on there. Or you could just do what you wanted to do and get a GTIR manifold which I recommend cause they wont crack like a Log style will.

As far as getting a cobra maf, why? If you pic yourself up a 300zx tt MAF you will be fine. As Far as Running a JWT ecu? Ok that's 550 bucks just for a tune Plus what ever extras you want on her. I say get the Apexi AFC to control your fuel maps and use a Bluebird ECU or you could use the stock ECU which I did for a while with no problems. The Super AFC will compensate for the larger injectors, and you can lean them out or richen them up as much as you desire no cost to you
Unlike jwt.

The reason why Im saying use this stuff is cause you said Cheapest way which is effective. Well there it is. As far as getting stuff that you could use NA before you go turbo. Ignition I highly recommend one MSD 6a is a pretty good one to start out with or you can be the big baller and go Digital 6. And get some wires, I can't tell you how many stock wires I messed up while turbo. As soon as I got some NGKs I was good to go.

So lets see what we need here.
Super AFC 300-320 search around.
300zxTT MAF 120-150 look around.
370 cc injectors hmm 100 bucks 120 with a fuel rail you wont be able to use lol.

Manifold + turbo = probably like 400 depends on who you get it from. Just make sure there is no play in the compressor wheels " push it from side to side", and its been oiled, just spin the wheel and see how freely it spins. Thats always a good way to tell.

Intercooler, you could pic up a starion front mount for pretty cheap probably under 200 bucks. as far as piping, ubends are pretty cheap you probably need I'd say 8 bends and some straights, and take her to a muffler shop and get it cut up and pieced together, I would do it for about 90 bucks to cut them up and weld it all together. Depends. I use TIG but most muffler shops use MIG so they should be cheaper.

Oh can't forget all the neccesary hardware like lines and hoses, also a boost gauge 50 bucks from Autometer, Id recommend a Greddy EGT for 200 From Roadraceengineering.com to keep an eye on the engine. IF you want a boost controller, I suggest getting a manual model, because they are cheaper, if you really want to stay cheap you could go to sears and get a craftsman vain controller, they are about 30 bucks and are the same unit as the Turbo X manual boost controller without the pretty colors.


Now lets add this up, with everyting right above you are looking at around, 1300-1500 for everything to get a reliable turbo setup capable of the power you are looking for.

Now you said something about getting a BB Engine and swapping internals? Again I ask why, If you want a stronger bottom end which you really wont need at that 300WHP Id buy all aftermarket parts and hook her up right, Why settle for second best? Know what I mean.


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Rocketman:
Well i want to go turbo with my classic but i can't afford the all at once outlay of a BB or GTIR engine so i was thinking of something else let me know what you guys think. I am looking for about 250 to 300 reliable WHP with my primary concern being good power delivery.

I would like to get a GTIR manifold and a T-28 and then bolt these onto my stock engine with a cobra MAF the 370 injectors and a front mount intercooler and then run low boost (7-10 psi) and get everything running right with this and then buy the BB engine and just swap all the components out.

My concern is can i run the JWT program for the BB on my high compression hihg port motor? I would kinda like to get the ECU reprogrammed once but if i have to i can do it twice i guess. Also what other types of upgrades can i do to the motor NA that will transfer over to the BB in the long run. I know pulleys and Flywheel, but what else would be good to do that i am not going to toss when i go turbo.

Thanks for any thoughts and suggestions.
</font>
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http://geocities.com/yellow4g63/sr20det.htm

Mike Collins
Turbo Classic, T3/T04e Tial 35mm ".65Bar" Blitz BOV, Custom piping griffen intercooler Core with HK$ EndTanks,custom manifold, 370cc injectors, paxton fpr, Eibach Sportlines, everything else was stolen,
Speedpro coming soon bigger Injectors and custom fuel rail. Equal length stainless steel manifold. Fortified Tranny. DAMN VILLIANS.



[This message has been edited by PSSSHHHGOESMYSR20 (edited 09-01-2001).]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well wait a minute. It is not a matter of i want to do it cheaply or inexpensively. I want to do this right.

The only reason for me doing upgrades on my engine first is that i can spread the cost out over a longer period of time (eg. buy a manifold one month, turbo the next, intercoooler the next, etc) I do not have the ability to outlay 1300-1500 right off the bat.

The other question i had was i do not want to swap stock internals with a bluebird i just want to swap the entire engine in for the lower compression to run a higher boost level.

Remember I WANT to do this RIGHT not just cheaply. No offence to your ideas and i do appreciate them i just think you may have misunderstood my intentions.
 

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What kind of condition is your current engine in? You won't necessarily have to swap out to get the lower compression internals. For your goal, 250-300 WHP, I think the stock internals would be fine. If you plan on going over 250 WHP, you will be needing MSD injectors, a new fuel rail, and a 300ZX TT fuel pump or a Walbro Fuel Pump. You can use a new flywheel, pullies, radiator, fuel pump, install the injectors and MAF, radiator, and even install the turbo ECU while you are NA, and then use them when you are turbo.
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Rocketman:

The only reason for me doing upgrades on my engine first is that i can spread the cost out over a longer period of time (eg. buy a manifold one month, turbo the next, intercoooler the next, etc) I do not have the ability to outlay 1300-1500 right off the bat.
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</font>
Neither do some people. That's why some of us SAVE money over the period of a couple-few months to have enuff to buy something good... FMAX Stg. II.

Buying a kit is gonna save you a lot of headaches over buyin the same stuff in bits and pieces...
 

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BOOSTIN PROTECH STYLE
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I gave you an alternative to doing a turbo setup Inexpensively, but dont think for one minute its not a good setup, or a cheap setup, You dont have to have JWT products in the mix to have a good setup. I know you didnt say that but that is possibly what you may be thinking. That's not the case at all. The setup I laid out for you is good for mid to low 12s and is a reliable set up if setup correctly. I didnt missuderstand your post the least bit. Also you dont need to run low compression to run higher boost, especially on a t28 which falls off about 14 psi anyway. You would be better off with a higher compression motor for a street driven car. Believe me if you ever drive in a higher comp turbo car, compared to a 8.3:1 comp motor, you can see a dramatic difference in performance. You wont have to worry about blowing up with a t28 or the 370 injectors. I ran 13 PSI on a t3t04e with 370 cc injectors with no problem. So take that as you will. Good luck with your build up.


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Rocketman:
Well wait a minute. It is not a matter of i want to do it cheaply or inexpensively. I want to do this right.

The only reason for me doing upgrades on my engine first is that i can spread the cost out over a longer period of time (eg. buy a manifold one month, turbo the next, intercoooler the next, etc) I do not have the ability to outlay 1300-1500 right off the bat.

The other question i had was i do not want to swap stock internals with a bluebird i just want to swap the entire engine in for the lower compression to run a higher boost level.

Remember I WANT to do this RIGHT not just cheaply. No offence to your ideas and i do appreciate them i just think you may have misunderstood my intentions.
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Mike.
Turbo Classic, T3/T04e Tial 35mm ".65Bar" Blitz BOV, Custom piping griffen intercooler Core with HK$ EndTanks,custom manifold, 370cc injectors, paxton fpr, Eibach Sportlines, everything else was stolen,:( Speedpro coming soon bigger Injectors and custom fuel rail. Equal length stainless steel manifold. Fortified Tranny. DAMN VILLIANS.
 

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Thats what I meant, Thank you for clarifying that for me Zak.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Zak91SER:
To clarify here, JWT charges $100 to tune an ECU, not $550. $550 is the initial cost of getting a JWT ECU with the daughterboard soldered on. Once that's done they'll do anything you want on it for $100.</font>
Mike
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">As Far as Running a JWT ecu? Ok that's 550 bucks just for a tune</font>
To clarify here, JWT charges $100 to tune an ECU, not $550. $550 is the initial cost of getting a JWT ECU with the daughterboard soldered on. Once that's done they'll do anything you want on it for $100. I wouldn't recommend an AFC unless you *really* know what you're doing. All it takes is running too lean at any given point, and kaboom!

If you really like to tinker with your car all the time, by all means get an AFC. But if you just want to drive it, go with JWT.
 

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Enemy of the stupid
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I thought it was $550 for the base turbo tune. Then if you wanted them to change the program for a Cobra MAF and 50lbs it was $250 more on top of the $550. Then $100 to retune it after all that is done.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Zak91SER:
To clarify here, JWT charges $100 to tune an ECU, not $550. $550 is the initial cost of getting a JWT ECU with the daughterboard soldered on. Once that's done they'll do anything you want on it for $100. I wouldn't recommend an AFC unless you *really* know what you're doing. All it takes is running too lean at any given point, and kaboom!

If you really like to tinker with your car all the time, by all means get an AFC. But if you just want to drive it, go with JWT.
</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I *feel* that my car is in pretty good shape right now but i have not *yet* verified that.
There is an event coming up in the KC area (where i am from) and i will be doing a compression and leakdown tests as well as putting the car on a dyno.

No offense intended to anyone i am considering all options here, Because i like to spend money on my car (i don't have a GF or wife so i gotta love someting!) i have a hard time controlling my spending and saving my money. I know it is a bad habit but haey at least its to a good cause. I do have the patience to buy the parts and then not install them, but i have a hard time not spending the money. Guess thats what i get for being young and in love with my car HeHe.

Anyway if it is only $100 bucks to reprogram the ecu after JWT has programmed it the first time that is a bonus i wasn't expecting. Maybe i will just run it with the high comp engine i have in there now but I do need to check the condition of my engine so leakdown, compression test and dyno are in order. Any other suggestions on things to check out before i decide to turbo my current engine?

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.


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92 w/CAI and battery relocation, 10"JL audio sub and sony hardware.
 
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I thought it was $550 for the base turbo tune. Then if you wanted them to change the program for a Cobra MAF and 50lbs it was $250 more on top of the $550. Then $100 to retune it after all that is done.


***Yeah, I have of this $250 charge in order to run the larger MSD injectors, but I am unsure of the specifics. It has something to do with starting the MAF voltage scale at a different point in order to compensate for the larger injectors.

Can someone clarify this for me? I already have a JWT turbo ECU and I will be upgrading to MSD's and I want to know what charges lie ahead. I was only expecting to pay $100 to get the changes made, but it might now cost an additional $250 on top of that.

Thanks,

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Jay Whitely
Tampa, FL
1996 200SX SE-R
GTi-R powered with F-MAX kit
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by v8killer:



Can someone clarify this for me? I already have a JWT turbo ECU and I will be upgrading to MSD's and I want to know what charges lie ahead. I was only expecting to pay $100 to get the changes made, but it might now cost an additional $250 on top of that.

Thanks,

</font>

Here is a break down of cost :


JWT ECU $500.00-$550.00 - Depends on where you buy it!

JWT Reprogramming $100.00 - This can be reprogrammed at any time. Now this can be for changing from 370c injctors w/ stock MAF to 50 lb/hr injectors & Cobra MAF, going from 50lb/hr 3 bar to 4 bar program, or from 50lb/hr injectors to 72lb/hr injectors and vice versa!

JWT NOS Module $375-450.00 - Now this will allow you to control JWT's 50/100 shot NOS program, JWT's NOS Spool Up Program, JWT Drag Launch Program, H20 injection, or Low/High Octane Program!


Louis Anaya
 

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Living up Boost
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I have 99 SE that will be turbo via the F-MAX stage I kit. My question is, would it be cheaper to get the ecu through f-max or get my own 95-97 ecu and send it to jwt? Thanks in advance.

-saaby
 
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