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i had a similar issue when i installed my s3 cams into my 98 us sr20. ended up putting back the stock cams, and everything was fine. haven't had time to play around with it yet. you might want to start from the beginning to eliminate all those variables you listed.
 

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just workin'
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Discussion Starter #22
yeah that is what i am going to do next, i didn't want to lose power and go back to stock, i guess if it works with stock cams i will just buy some jun or tomei's and bite the bullet.
 

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totaled200ser said:
it has been done already, doesn't seem to help, thanks for the writeup, i drove for like 4000 miles after the cam install and it didn't run great, but with the dist. advanced alot, it would be a 18 degrees, but still had a slight hesitation, seemed like i skipped a tooth to me. then when i check everything is how it should be, are you sure its 20 pins?....thats what i read everywhere, even the alldata.
100% positive it's 20pins between the cam marks. I went in to the same problem you are experiencing. Went I did my cams, the chain slipped, and I tried following the instructions on the manuals and they did not help. I experienced skipping tooth or teeth many times and definitely know how it feels like. Depends on where you skipped a tooth. Say if you advanced the intake cam by 1 tooth(10deg), the car would still be driveable but you lose maybe 10-15hp and the car would hesitate. A 91 intake cam with worn lobes shouldn't cause this to happen.

Are you sure you are eyeballing the correct 0deg mark on the crank pulley, or did u even do that? You must rotate the crank by hand a few times and make sure everything is ok. It's much easier to spot the problem with the crank pulley than on the cam gears since the crank. If you followed my writeup of resetting the timing and still get the same problem, then u can be sure the problem does not lie in a skipped tooth.

One more thought, did u fit the exhaust cam on the intake side? Most likely not since it's easy to see the exhaust cam has a distributor fitment at the end. But worth a look.
 

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just workin'
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Discussion Starter #24
positive about the 20 pins, is it 20 pins on every sr20 because i haven't actually seen a book that really covers a 98 motor.....and i have done sr20, b series, and 4g63 cam installs and had no problems before, yes it was at tdc, it is always set at tdc when i do cams. the lobes faces outward and there are 20 pins, i think there is a different problem besides the cams, it won't rev above 5 g's....i feel that it is a fuel system problem, since all ignition have been replaced, i need to test fuel pressure, then voltage at fuel pump. i have a plan of attack, but my car is outside and i have a jeep in the garage i just put a clutch in and about everything else and need to install a new pilot bearing because the input shaft is becoming preloaded and allowing it not to shift, and that is the only thing that could be wrong, sorry strayed off topic, once i get that out of my garage which should be today, i am going to start testing things on my car and stop trying to guess, i know how diagnose, but don't have all the tools i need yet, which i am about to buy and start getting into this one. thanks again for your time and suggestions, i may try installing the stock cam also, and i know a worn cam lobe won't make my timing off, thats just something i spit out when i was ranting.
 

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totaled200ser said:
positive about the 20 pins, is it 20 pins on every sr20 because i haven't actually seen a book that really covers a 98 motor.....and i have done sr20, b series, and 4g63 cam installs and had no problems before, yes it was at tdc, it is always set at tdc when i do cams. the lobes faces outward and there are 20 pins, i think there is a different problem besides the cams, it won't rev above 5 g's....i feel that it is a fuel system problem, since all ignition have been replaced, i need to test fuel pressure, then voltage at fuel pump. i have a plan of attack, but my car is outside and i have a jeep in the garage i just put a clutch in and about everything else and need to install a new pilot bearing because the input shaft is becoming preloaded and allowing it not to shift, and that is the only thing that could be wrong, sorry strayed off topic, once i get that out of my garage which should be today, i am going to start testing things on my car and stop trying to guess, i know how diagnose, but don't have all the tools i need yet, which i am about to buy and start getting into this one. thanks again for your time and suggestions, i may try installing the stock cam also, and i know a worn cam lobe won't make my timing off, thats just something i spit out when i was ranting.
20pin positive for the 98 also.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
thats what i thought, damn i was hoping differently, i hope i just counted wrong, but i doubt i counted wrong three or 4 times, lol.
 

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just curious, any progress with this?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
i am going to hook it up to my snap on scanner at work and figure out the problems, now i figured that there must be 2 problems, the timing has to be off, otherwise my dist. would be in the middle. the problem of revving above 5grand came 3000 miles after install and don't seem to be related. i probably ignored the timing too long because of other cars, and now it is more complicated because of the fact that it won't rev any more, it revved before but just lacked power. it will be fixed this week now that i have a shop that i work at that will let me use their scanner. i will update post later this week when its fixed.
drew
 

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jacen99SE said:
I would try this. Also, check the compression.
I don't see why putting back the stock cams will fix the problem. The 91 and lowport cams are nearly identical. If there's no detectable visual defects on the 91 cam, then it will not cause this problem. If all he did was a simple cam swap, I'm sure he skipped a tooth and his timing is off, unless he did something else besides what is normally required for a cam swap.

And now that he says the distributor is not in the middle. There are two possibilities for this. Either he manually adjusted the timing or it's off by a tooth. Depending on how far off the center it is, both overly advanced or retarded ignition timing, or a skipped tooth can cause what he is experiencing. My timing is advanced so it's not at the center. But remember 1 tooth off on the cams is 10deg off the distributor. It's much more likely that he skipped a tooth or two. But I'm just speculating since I can't see his car or what he has done.

totaled200se-r, where r u located bro. maybe we can work together on this and talk sr20s
 

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alright totaled200ser, i think i might have a solution. i installed just my s3 intake cam, and car runs like crap. we both have it with 10° intake, and 12° exhaust, right at TDC, 20 links, and distributor not centered for 15° timing. i guess what's throwing us both off is the fact that according to jwt, there is no room for the chain to possibly slip off the crank. but if it did, we could still have our tdc, 10 and 12 degrees, but then the slack would be between the exhaust and the crank side. so pull the tensioner, take off any slack between the crank and exhaust, and reset timing chain. hopefully i'll have time tonight to do this, and i'll post later.
 

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I am experiencing the same problem with my '93 SE-R. I just installed my JWT S3 cams and the car is slower :confused: I was wondering the 20 links that you are supposed to count, is that from dot to dot? I will double check mine, I think it maybe 21 links dot to dot on mine???? Is that possible with the dowel pins set @ 10 & 12 o'clock @ TDC? Its getting dark right now will check tomorrow! BTW, What type of engravings do the JWT S3 cams have on them....mine said sportcam :)

Late,
KEN
 

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Discussion Starter #34
i will be doing this soon, it has to be the problem, the only place it could have skipped is on the crank. i know i can count and i was careless about the crank because jwt says that it can't slip on the crank but i have heard a couple stories now, and seeing the numbers on the snap on scanner i know the timing is wrong, but the cam timing is right. o2 starts to show lean up top, and the car will sputter in open loop because the 02 sensor isn't used and the car needs that to compensate for what is going on to make it driveable. i'll let you all know
 

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Discussion Starter #36
timing is now right, still has a sputter problem in open loop. my guess is the maf is bad or the harness has a intermittent open/short. i will be taking a ride tommorow while the foreman drives, so we can work together on this one. in a way i am glad that this car is mine and not a customers, since i don't know how i could explain this to one of them.
 

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I seem to be having the same problem! What exactly did you do? Well, heres a link to my thread: http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=61834. I noticed that you stated that you must have skipped a tooth on the crank, which I think happened to my car! How were you able to fix that! Please PM me or post with the steps/procedures that you did to resolve this CAM problem!

Thanks,
KEN
 

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TRUSE-R said:
I seem to be having the same problem! What exactly did you do? Well, heres a link to my thread: http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=61834. I noticed that you stated that you must have skipped a tooth on the crank, which I think happened to my car! How were you able to fix that! Please PM me or post with the steps/procedures that you did to resolve this CAM problem!

Thanks,
KEN
I did a little writeup on the first page of this post explaining it does not matter whether you skipped a tooth or not on the crank. Follow the writeup to reset your timing without ever having to worry about taking out the front cover.
 

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99SE-L...ok I did what you explained. Rotated the crank to the 0 degrees TDC mark, checked to make sure intake cam is at 10 o'clock and exhaust cam at 12 o'clock with 20 links in between the chain.

Now where do I set my distributor? Won't it be off? I marked where spark plug one is on the distributor housing, do I just line that up with the rotor since it should be facing number one cylinder?

Also once I get this all right...do I just start the car and let it warm up at 0 degree timing before I actually set the timing to 15 degrees...i know the car has to be warm.
 

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b14xxser said:
99SE-L...ok I did what you explained. Rotated the crank to the 0 degrees TDC mark, checked to make sure intake cam is at 10 o'clock and exhaust cam at 12 o'clock with 20 links in between the chain.

Now where do I set my distributor? Won't it be off? I marked where spark plug one is on the distributor housing, do I just line that up with the rotor since it should be facing number one cylinder?

Also once I get this all right...do I just start the car and let it warm up at 0 degree timing before I actually set the timing to 15 degrees...i know the car has to be warm.
Yes, as long as the rotor is making contact with the spark plug 1 wire, it's fine. There's only so many ways, you can put back the distributor so your main concern is to have the cams and crank at TDC position. Just check your timing afterwards. On mine, it was at 16deg after the reassembly. Let me know if u need anymore help.
 
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