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91 SE-R
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228 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installing ES motor mounts for the 2 torque positions only (front and rear on the cross member).

New front went right in no problems (and stock mount was torn). Rear won't line up to let me replace the cross bolt. Have a bottle jack, scissor jack, and floor jack - tried all types placements and lifts.

The inserts on this mount position seem "fatter" than stock mount w no inserts. I can, with great difficulty compress down far enough to force mount w inserts into metal bracket, then it's a bi$%h to move it around to line up the bolt. Advice for me? Stock mount is in good shape - just about ready to leave the rear mount stock (if I can line it back up).

Advice?

Thanks
Dan
 

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merely a flesh wound
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15,274 Posts
Dan, here's an post of mine from the mailing list from last October; http://www.se-r-list.org/archives/2000/2000-10/msg00099.html

As for the firewall mount - I thought there was no way in hell that it would
fit back up into the body! For those of you who haven't seen them yet, ES
sells you inserts that slot into the spaces of the original mounts. On one
side they're a complete flat circle, the other side has protrusions that fit
into the stock mount. The inserts add about 1/2" to each side of the mount
and they're pretty damn stiff. To get the mount back up into the body, you
will need another set of hands, at least I did. What worked for me was to
cock it in slightly to one side to get it started, and as per John Heer's
page, use the scissor jack to snug it up. Then with my neighbor manning the
jack, I got the free side of the mount started in with a flat bladed
screwdriver. Once it was started, the jack slipped it right in. Lining up
the bolt hole was a real bitch also. I tried every variation of bolting up
the front of the crossmember, then just the back, then both, raising and
lowering the engine, but it wouldn't even come close. We wound up with me
lying with my feet out by the passenger door eyeing the bolt hole, my
neighbor with his feet out the front of the car maneuvering the
crossmember - 20 seconds later it was in.

-snip-

These motor mounts are one of the best things I've done for my SE-R. No more
groaning, no more wheel hop, no more banging over bumps, the whole car feels
much tighter. Live with the increased vibration, it's worth it. And I ran
across a few messages in the archives stating that with time the vibrations
lessen.

Chris Scarpulla
92 SE-R

Enjoying the ride allot more.
 

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466 Posts
I've had the same problem before. Try installing a motor and putting ES mounts in at the same time
I sanded them down a little so they would slide into place easier. This made all the difference inn the world.

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Eric Waterman
1996 200SX SE-R
1997 200SX SE-R
1991 Sentra SE-R
 

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91 SE-R
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228 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Originally posted by AC7880:
Installing ES motor mounts for the 2 torque positions only (front and rear on the cross member).

New front went right in no problems (and stock mount was torn). Rear won't line up to let me replace the cross bolt. Have a bottle jack, scissor jack, and floor jack - tried all types placements and lifts.

Clip

Got that son of a bit#$. Solution: my 17 y/o son helping from the front of the car, pushing, pulling, twisting the cross member a "dentists" mirror and flashlight to look at the bolt alignment thru the welded on nut the centering bolt screws into. My son had to twist, turn, and pull the crossmember from the front, while I pushed, pulled, and jacked the crossmember w the bottle jack from underneath. Sounds like I had more touble than most, so new tech tip is small automotive "dentist" mirror and flashlight to look thru the nut the crossbolt threads into. You would not believe the crazy angle on the cross member to thread the tru bolt. Once the rear mount was cross bolted, the 4 bolts (front and rear) on the cross member were easy.
Dan
 

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JordanWhiteMusic.com
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4,699 Posts
I absolutely *LOVE* the ES mounts. I have the full set on my car. The difference those little things make is incredible. Throttle response, smooth shifting, and just a generally overall more direct and accurate feeling of the engine. And I don't even notice the vibration anymore.
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I can, with great difficulty compress down far enough to force mount w inserts into metal bracket, then it's a bi$%h to move it around to line up the bolt</font>
Lube the hell out of it. Just make sure the lube if rubber-friendly.
Listen to what Chris said about looking. I was able to look through the passenger wheel and see the hole and give directions to line it up. Check the positioning of the mount under the battery tray. You can move that one to help you line up if needed.
 

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705 Posts
yeah, those mounts can be a real PITA to maneuver in there sometimes. It helps to have ES lube. You can get a tube of it for liek 8 bucks, and it helps. or something similar. Also, for anybody planign ondoing all 4, make sure you have a dremel and metal cutting thing for the dremel handy, for the passenger side mount, and a bench vise, cuz youll need them.

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Ryan Walsh, 1997 200sx SE-R w/ ES mounts, JWT s4's, AEBS 4-1, PR CAI, Sportlines/AGX's, Bridgestone re730's, Matrix FSTB, Stillen GTR grill
 
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