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827 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So im seriously considering to turbo my VE and im new to the turbo area and searching is really confusing. Ill just make my q's very simple and straight forward.
I can get a BB DET for $1k. I want to do a simple complete DET bottom end + VE head with Sr16ve cams.

1) How are the sr16 cams on the turbo? will the stock VE cams drive better?

2) what will my compression be with DET bottom end + VE head? 9.5:1?

3) how much boost can i run with stock DET bottom + VE head setup?

4) what will my expected HP outcome be?

5) what headgasket?

6) when can i expect boost to start building?

7) anything else i need to do besides drill block for VVL oil feed? Any additional parts for this setup?

Im just planning to turbo this VE and make it as SIMPLE as possible. Im planning to use the stock DET exhaust mani but bore it out for the VE. Find a piping kit, and an intercooler. My goal is to make this SIMPLE and RELIABLE. Nothing really fancy.I still have not decided if i want a recirc setup or a bov. Sorry bout the repeated q's. But after searching for the past hr, i just got more confused. Help a brotha out! :)
 

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'71 240z, a REAL classic
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225 Posts
if you recirc or bov will depend on if you run a MAF or MAP sensor.
 
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827 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The SR16 cams may have valve to piston contact with a DET bottom end.

Just get a GTiR mani and turbo, should make 300whp no problem at 12-15psi.
hey charles, thanxs for the quick reply. Its not that i dun wanna get a gtir mani + turbo, but i wanna keep my cost down low. Im not looking for high HP really, just more than the VE and a little turbo to play around with :) Maybe the Gtir will come down the road ;)

My projected project is: VE head with stock sr20ve cams, complete DET bottom end, 2.5'' catback. what do you project my hp will be at stock boost 7psi and high boost, 12 psi?
 

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vvl se-r
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341 Posts
Hey bro, I'll let you know how many hp my cousin makes. Same set-up as you described. Just finishing wiring it up and off to the dyno. I'm using a U12 manifold ported to match the VE.
 

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Guanaco Tuner
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3,049 Posts
You can run your VE injectors at 4 bar = 388cc or better yet you should get some 370's and run them at 4 bar. With the better flowing head you'll get to the limits quicker.
 

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Turd Furgeson
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3,935 Posts
You'll max out the DE MAF. That much I know.

I'd get some 370's in there too. I had my injectors rebuilt about two weeks ago, and the guy said they only flowed 320-325.

I'd also be tempted to to a T-28/GTiR manifold. Its your loot/plan though.
 

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BTCC VE Power
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5,151 Posts
not to steal his thread but what would a safe amount of power or boost be on a stock ve motor?
anyone know the answer to this? for the guys who wanna throw a t25 or t28 at low boost without working the block?
 

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"Founder of GTi-R City"
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715 Posts
Mautai, since you have a sr20ve, just do some handi-work and convert it over yourself and save some cash?

1) get the 79e rods/pistons
2) 8cw crank
3) girdle

Balance & bluprint the motor and a slight mod to fit the girdle into a sr//ve motor but worth it. The sr//ve motor has a natural solenoid oiling hole in it so to me it's wiser to just tap the ve block for an oil return line, than to tap the back of a sr20det block to oil up your solenoids. Plus personally since the solenoids switch on oil pressure, I would not want to alter the natural oil path, but you do you, I'll do me!
 

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Registered
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66 Posts
1) How are the sr16 cams on the turbo? will the stock VE cams drive better?
SR16 cams have a perfect smooth idle, lower end spool up is a little slower because of the small lobes. If you are running a turbo smaller than a GT30R the 20ve cams would be a better choice

follow-up question here:

which VVL cams have the best small-lobe for spooling? im assuming high lift and duration on the exhaust cam is what is needed?

also, on the second-lobe, would there be any problem with valve over-lap at ~8k-rpm, using the 16VE or the 20V cams?

it would be interesting to have a custom set of cams, with the first-lobe being designed purely for spooling a turbo, and then use a boost-switch that recognizes when you are out of vacuum, and that switches the cams.
 
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827 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Mautai, since you have a sr20ve, just do some handi-work and convert it over yourself and save some cash?

1) get the 79e rods/pistons
2) 8cw crank
3) girdle

Balance & bluprint the motor and a slight mod to fit the girdle into a sr//ve motor but worth it. The sr//ve motor has a natural solenoid oiling hole in it so to me it's wiser to just tap the ve block for an oil return line, than to tap the back of a sr20det block to oil up your solenoids. Plus personally since the solenoids switch on oil pressure, I would not want to alter the natural oil path, but you do you, I'll do me!
Why do thru all that hassle when i can buy a DET for 1k and just swap the head + oil lines for the VE solinoids? I really dun like messing with the internals much, if im going thru all that hassle so save 1-200, i rather spend it. I like it to be as easy as possible :)
 

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Registered
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434 Posts
My projected project is: VE head with stock sr20ve cams, complete DET bottom end, 2.5'' catback. what do you project my hp will be at stock boost 7psi and high boost, 12 psi?
Dude you definately need to go with a 3" cat-back for a turbo set up...2.5" should be for VE alone, you want both...So you need 3"

I am considering buying a B13 with a VE and adding a GTIR turbo set up, I am definately going to be running 3" when it comes to exhaust.
 

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Enemy of the stupid
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4,727 Posts
Why do thru all that hassle when i can buy a DET for 1k and just swap the head + oil lines for the VE solinoids? I really dun like messing with the internals much, if im going thru all that hassle so save 1-200, i rather spend it. I like it to be as easy as possible :)

Most VE head and cams go for $800, so add that to your 1k and your at $1800. I'd say just buy a SR16 and do a crank and forged rods and pistons. Make 400+ hp all day long and be happy.
 

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nothing but shenanigans
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763 Posts
Mautai, since you have a sr20ve, just do some handi-work and convert it over yourself and save some cash?

1) get the 79e rods/pistons
2) 8cw crank
3) girdle

Balance & bluprint the motor and a slight mod to fit the girdle into a sr//ve motor but worth it. The sr//ve motor has a natural solenoid oiling hole in it so to me it's wiser to just tap the ve block for an oil return line, than to tap the back of a sr20det block to oil up your solenoids. Plus personally since the solenoids switch on oil pressure, I would not want to alter the natural oil path, but you do you, I'll do me!
This is exactly what i did and it turned out great. I also arp studded the motor, ve metal head gasket, new bearings & rings, timing chain & tensioner, etc.
 
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