SR20 Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
On Vacation
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For the 1st time in about 1 month my car has finally been turned on. My new upgraded setup: JWT ECU (4 bar, 370cc, Bored MAF, S4 Program), Nismo FPR, 50 trim T3/T04E .63A/R Turbonetics turbo, Protech manifold, Tial 35mm (6 psi), HKS Racing BOV, Blaster 2 Coil, Spec Stage 3 clutch. I also fixed my 5th gear popout problems while the tranny was down. All these parts were added on within the 1 month I was out of commission.
My previous setup was a U12 setup w/ T25 hybrid turbo. The only thing that were not from the stock setup was a 3" exhaust, Greddy Type S BOV, and the MSD.
I'm proud to say that the car started on the 1st turn of the engine. I quickly adjusted the FPR and BOV to keep it from dying out. I did, however, needed to jump-start the car (I did expect that after 1 month).

After driving it around the block and to my homeboys crib I noticed my Volt meter gauge flickering rapidly between 12-14 volts. My radio would turn off and on rapidly on low RPMs but once RPMs rose it would stop flickering and stay on. My headlights also turns off and on when the RPMs are low. Is my battery still recharging or did my alternator take a **** on me?
Also..after leaving my homeboy's crib...I was in 1st when I gave it a little gas and the car would buck back and forth really hard even when I gave it a lot of gas...it still would not move like it suppose to move...all it did was buck. I stopped and let the car idle (in the middle of the road)...after letting it idle for 1 minute...the RPMs rose to about 2K on its own and then dropped down after 10 secs and the car drove normal again...Is this because the ECU is still learning?
Any input would be greatful!

Manny
 

·
Enjoy the GTR Matt!
Joined
·
3,716 Posts
Good to hear she's running. Try taking it easy and let her idle, cruise around lightly a few times shutting it off and turning on again to see if the ECU will hurry up and learn.

Now if I could only get your OLD setup installed and running!
 

·
On Vacation
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This new setup is insane...I could hear the turbo spooling with my old setup (during higher RPMs)...with my new setup..it sounds like the turbo is right next to my ear at just about 2,5oo RPMs (light throttle).
I'm already dying to get this car to its full potential...500 miles of breaking this clutch in is going to kill me!
On the other hand...anyone have any ideas on what is going on with my car?

Manny
 

·
WWJD
Joined
·
2,092 Posts
Hay Manny it was nice to meet you again even though Oscars radiator fans took a dump after you left.Glad to see your back in tha game playa!!!
 

·
On Vacation
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
TREYDEE said:
Hay Manny it was nice to meet you again even though Oscars radiator fans took a dump after you left.Glad to see your back in tha game playa!!!
How did you guys make it back? What happened?

Manny
 

·
WWJD
Joined
·
2,092 Posts
Kaniel rigged up some unused wires from Oscars MSD kit to make tha fans stay on all that time,but one of his fans died so we rode back with one fan.Luckally it was a super cool night!!!
 

·
On Vacation
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Witt19 said:
your running 370 4 bar with t3/t4? u plan to upgrade that soon right?
I only plan to upgrade my fuel when I decide to go more than 13+ psi.
I can safely run 12 psi dailing on this setup according to Miko...it has been done before..just ask DannySE99.
I'm going for a long drive tomorrow and I will pull the negative terminal off the battery to see if the car stays on. If it doesn't stay on...my alternater took a **** on me.

Manny
 

·
Tired!
Joined
·
10,149 Posts
that is interesting. Guess you don't want to run at full boost much, even at 12psi.

Did you get your idle and stuff all figured out? I would recheck TPS, base idle, timing and intake pipe connections for leaks.

Brent
 

·
On Vacation
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
coach said:
that is interesting. Guess you don't want to run at full boost much, even at 12psi.

Did you get your idle and stuff all figured out? I would recheck TPS, base idle, timing and intake pipe connections for leaks.

Brent
I re-did my idle once I finished setting the BOV and the FPR. Why would I check the timing? I never touched anything that had to do with my timing. I highy doubt any leaks in piping because I'm using very minimal couplings...as a matter of fact...I'm using a coupling from...turbo-IC pipe and IC pipe to intercooler(hotside)...then...IC to IC pipe, IC pipe to TB [between IC pipe to TB there is 1 coupling]<-- (coldside). However, I will triple check and make sure there are no leaks.
Alternator belt?...I'll check that also even though I haven't touched it at all.
Keep the suggestions coming...I will find out a lot more in a couple of hours on my long drive to school and see if I can diagnose any of my problems.
I'm taking long way to school so I can break-in my clutch! :D :cool:

Manny
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
941 Posts
I hope you get her running good soon. I am curious to hear your thoughts on the new setup. I will be installing that setup as well very soon. I just have to make the intercooler piping. I am running 550cc injectors though. 370cc is too much on the edge for my liking. goodluck. Let us know how you like it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
369 Posts
Sounds to me like you have a short somewhere or a loose ground. The bucking is most likely coming from the ECU/Ignition not having enough power to provide a strong spark and/or run itself under load.

Check and recheck all your electrical connections and splices, use/do quality connections and don't just twist wires together with electrical tape. That will cause you a lot of troubles in the long run. Hell even vampire taps fail over time.
 

·
SR20VE or a T28? I dunno!
Joined
·
1,664 Posts
what is your timing set at?
 

·
On Vacation
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Will overheating cause a car to buck, not rev past 2,5oo RPMs, and flickering Volt meter gauge???
I think I might-of found my problem. On my way to school it started to buck again and this time I noticed that I was overheating. BTW..the fans are working. I waited 30 mins before opening radiator cap and filled with coolant to the top with the car on. The car ran perfect the rest of the way to school (about 8 miles). It actually ran a little cooler than my old setup. My volt meter stopped flickering and there was no more bucking.
Right now I'm at school... I leave school around 4 pm so it should give it plenty of time to cool down before I head back home (17 miles). I will update again and hopefully it will be good news that my car is doing perfect.
My timing is exactly in the center (I don't have a timing light). I will take the car to Miko on Monday so he can take a look at it for me. I will also see if I can meet up with Serban so he can take pics of my car and my new setup for you guys.

BTW...I have been on this forum for exactly 1 year today. I didn't get my b13 (1st powered SR20 car) until June of last year. Also...this is the biggest task I have taken myself mechanically on my own. The only help I had was getting the tranny back up (my best friend helped me out) and some verbal advice from Miko. My best friend also helped me diagnose my little problems I was having.

Manny
 

·
On Vacation
Joined
·
3,821 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The reving would oscilate up to 2,5oo RPMs....
However...I think I found the culprit. I found a massive IC piping leak between the IC and coldside IC piping. I'm going to go out and drive the car now.

Manny
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top