[AC7880]

I'm a new guy to the board (been hanging around about 3 weeks and posted some with questions and hopefully help for others). I bought a 91 SER with 146,000 miles (50% hi-way) on it for $2500 last weekend. Well maintained with receipts for all work, 2 owners, both running mobile 1. Body and interior straight, new mid-range stock size tires on it, recent brake work, car 100% stock, white w sun roof.

Has original (not replaced) shocks, tranny, clutch, and CVs. Shocks are shot, all else appears tight to include tranny (no 5th pop-out fingers crossed), clutch grabs good, cvs seem good, starter and engine mounts replaced. Fuel filter was clogged bad, timing was off. Runs great and enjoying greatly. Between here and SE-R net I've learned lots. I bring V8, Harley, and Miata experience to the board so I hope to contribute to pay back what I've learned (I'm a (relatively) old-timer 45 Y/O with 26 yrs in the Air Force)..

PR CAI, engine mount inserts, Pro-Kits, AGXs, Unorth 2 pulley kit, dyno-flo mufflers, mandrel bent pipe (mandrel in 16 Gauge avail from JC Whitney cheap by the way) on the way to me as I type. Am in the clutch group buy too. Bought a electric impact wrench today from Harbor Freight Tools on sale for $65 to assist in the upcoming work.

Look forward to sharing info and am having great fun w the car. Anyone need a modified Miata in Tx area? (Miata on web soon).

 

[Trys_Hard]

Hey AC,
I'm one those older Newbies also! 48 and I just got my 92 SE-R about a month ago. What year is the Miata and do you still have the stock wheels for it? I understand the 14" 7 spoke wheels only weigh 10# and have the same bolt pattern. I autocross and I'm looking for some light wheels to race in!
:0


------------------
Art R.
1992 Sentra SE-R
SCCA Solo II Driver
Cal Club #823 E Stock

[This message has been edited by Trys_Hard (edited 05-04-2001).]

 

[AC7880]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Trys_Hard:
Hey AC,
I'm one those older Newbies also! 48 and I just got my 92 SE-R about a month ago. What year is the Miata and do you still have the stock wheels for it? I understand the 14" 7 spoke wheels only weigh 10# and have the same bolt pattern. I autocross and I'm looking for some light wheels to race in!
:0

</font>

92 Miata, but previous owner sold the stock wheels and went with 15" Panasports.

 

[AC7880]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Trys_Hard:
Hey AC,
.....I autocross and I'm looking for some light wheels to race in!
:0

</font>

Try these sites for some help:
http://www.miata.net/faq/wheel_weights.html#weight

used miata (have to machine hub to fit Nissan) wheels for sale:
http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/classifieds.cgi

http://maxtuning.com/tech/wheelsweights.asp

http://www.rutabaga.com/~jrogers/c8/

http://integra.vtec.net/wheels/wwd.htm

http://home.earthlink.net/~cvlocas/wheels.html

I'm partial to the Rotas and tirerack.com Kkosei K1s at this point in 15" (both about 12 lbs per wheel and inexpensive).

AC

 

[Guest]

"AC7880"
Welcome..... A few bits on the SR20DE that need to be replaced at 100,000 miles. Timing chain tensioner, water pump and your getting most of the other bits in your list. The Poly engine mount inserts should be the black graphite ones. Consider a Jim Wolf aluminium flywheel since you are in on the ACT clutch purchase. I am in love with my present JWT flywheel/ACT street clutch combination. I have tried 5 clutch setups and wasted too much money. ACT is the best. (www.zotz.com/nissan/proc/default.htm) is a great site to read about the water pump, chain tensioner and more. If you happen to have any questions at all, please e-mail me. I have had my nose buried in my NX2000 for 8 years. The part that gets the "#1 purchase" rating is the Factory Shop Manual.
"Trys_Hard"
I noticed you were insterested in light wheels. I have a list some where that states the weight of many different wheels including the Miatas. I would be happy to send it to you if you wish.

[This message has been edited by cossie (edited 05-04-2001).]

 

[Guest]

One more fun bit.... the 5th gear pop out common with the SR20DE is due to the 5th gear "snap ring" which splits apart letting the 5th gear "syncro hub" (a press on/off item) push the 5th gear "stopper" into the inner wall of the transmission housing. Cut and grind is the "stoppers" new job at that point letting bits of aluminium loose in the trany. When you remove the trany for the new clutch, you might want to consider opening the trany up (not hard) and replacing the "5th gear snap ring & stopper" right then & there (very easy). Good time for a full rebuild if things look shakey. This little fix can save you a world of future pain. I went to the lengths of getting the trany bits cryo treated by www.onecryo.com. Cryo treating the "snap ring" should stop it from breaking again. thank you for your time and again, welcome.

[This message has been edited by cossie (edited 05-04-2001).]

 

[AC7880]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by cossie:
"AC7880"
Welcome..... A few bits on the SR20DE that need to be replaced at 100,000 miles. Timing chain tensioner, water pump and your getting most of the other bits in your list. The Poly engine mount inserts should be the black graphite ones. Consider a Jim Wolf aluminium flywheel since you are in on the ACT clutch purchase. I am in love with my present JWT flywheel/ACT street clutch combination. I have tried 5 clutch setups and wasted too much money. ACT is the best. (www.zotz.com/nissan/proc/default.htm) is a great site to read about the water pump, chain tensioner and more. If you happen to have any questions at all, please e-mail me. I have had my nose buried in my NX2000 for 8 years. The part that gets the "#1 purchase" rating is the Factory Shop Manual.
"Trys_Hard"
I noticed you were insterested in light wheels. I have a list some where that states the weight of many different wheels including the Miatas. I would be happy to send it to you if you wish.

[This message has been edited by cossie (edited 05-04-2001).]</font>

Thanks cossie - I'll check the web site tommorrow. I'd also like the list of wheels, and sources of low priced light weight wheels if you have that also.

 

[Guest]

I'll start looking now.... you'll get an E-mail from "celica_gt4" when I send it. best to you.

 

[Guest]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by cossie:
"AC7880"
Welcome..... A few bits on the SR20DE that need to be replaced at 100,000 miles. Timing chain tensioner, water pump and your getting most of the other bits in your list. The Poly engine mount inserts should be the black graphite ones. Consider a Jim Wolf aluminium flywheel since you are in on the ACT clutch purchase. I am in love with my present JWT flywheel/ACT street clutch combination. I have tried 5 clutch setups and wasted too much money. ACT is the best. (www.zotz.com/nissan/proc/default.htm) is a great site to read about the water pump, chain tensioner and more. If you happen to have any questions at all, please e-mail me. I have had my nose buried in my NX2000 for 8 years. The part that gets the "#1 purchase" rating is the Factory Shop Manual.
"Trys_Hard"
I noticed you were insterested in light wheels. I have a list some where that states the weight of many different wheels including the Miatas. I would be happy to send it to you if you wish.

[This message has been edited by cossie (edited 05-04-2001).]</font>

A few questions about SR20DE mid-life crisis. I just popped a rocker and I'm gonna need a new cam. I have 133k miles on the engine now. I'm pretty sure the timing and h20 pump have been done already. But at this point, is there anything else that I should do that could dramatically increase the life of my sr20? Or possibly performance options at this point. I need a new set of cams so I'm going with JWT. But what about valves? What about injectors? Is this a good time to overhaul the low end, too?

I know I have a lot of questions but I'm mechanically impaired. I really appreciate your help... Thanks!

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Chad Kelly
[email protected]