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49 Posts
I was wondering what is a safe amount of NOS I can inject into my SR20DE? I know,I know!!!! 4cyl=50,6cyl=80,& LAST!!! 8cyl=100, but I heard before purchasing my SR20 that they can handle a 100 shot pretty well.
NOS injection
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10,102 Posts
The stock fuel system on a sr20de can handle about 220hp. So figure you can run a 60 shot safely. That's with you having some of the BPU's. Just make sure to retard your timing to 15 degrees or lower. This will help prevent detonation. Oh an just for the record I've used a 70 shot before on my stock fuel system. Don't really recomend it, but I felt that the extra 10hp is what I needed to win a race.
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96 se-r with a few goodies
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96 se-r with a few goodies
With the JWT system and 370cc injectors you can safely run a 100 shot of NOS. It is VERY FUN. There are some people running more than 100 shot but they have extra fuel. Lets see if any one wil post that they have more than 100 shot...speak up people
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The SR20 bottom end is very strong and has no problems holding the NOS.
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'96 SE-R No bolt unturned...
'92 E Lots of factory bolts still in place
'92 SE-R all stock with out a sunroof, just added to the family!
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'96 SE-R No bolt unturned...
'92 E Lots of factory bolts still in place
'92 SE-R all stock with out a sunroof, just added to the family!
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12,447 Posts
I have a 50 wet shot on my Classic and it runs awesome. I like the pull it is not very agressive it just pulls nice and smooth. I just put a Primera motor in my car so I am going to change my jets to a 60 shot. What do you guys like better for a SE-R a wet shot or a dry shot?
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49 Posts
What do you guys like better for a SE-R a wet shot or a dry shot?
I think Dry [more safe!]
I think Dry [more safe!]
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7,627 Posts
"I think Dry [more safe!]
I don't think so. Let me tell you why.
I've run wet systems (single fogger first, now a direct-port setup) on my '93 for over a year now, with 106 dragstrip passes made.
The dry systems, I do agree to a point, are very safe and reliable. However, they do have their limitations, especially when it comes to adding the requisite fuel. Without modding the ECU at all, a 50 shot dry setup should be just fine. The O2 sensor can pick up on the added oxygen in the exhaust stream and increase the fuel flow through the injectors just fine. At less than a 100-shot, IMHO, the stock (259cc) injectors will be maxxed out, unable to supply the fuel the engine needs PLUS the added fuel needed by the increased oxygen levels from the nitrous.
Now, with a direct-port setup like I've got, the fuel is shot right past the injectors, through the fogger nozzles. Yes, it does draw from the same pressurized line that the injectors get their fuel from. And this is where the ability to run more than a 100 shot gets easier with a wet system: By merely adding a 300ZX TT fuel pump (or similar high-flowing unit), the ability to use a 100 shot or higher becomes much easier than with the dry setup.
With the dry setup, in order to run a 100 shot (like the JWT setup -- a great setup regardless), you need: JWT ECU (ain't cheap), and 370cc injectors (or bigger), and they ain't cheap either. You're looking at at least $1,000 for that setup, minimum.
300ZX TT fuel pumps (or similar) go in the $200-250 range, last time I checked. By merely making that mod, and adding a FP regulator, one can increase the nitrous flow to a much higher level, and safely. The stock injectors have no clue what's happening: They merely see the O2 signal as being pretty much spot-on, and adjust minutely, just like in everyday driving.
The trick to direct-port wet setups is: Fuel pressure and management. It took quite a while to get my setup working *just* right (playing around with different F jets, etc.).
But once we sorted it out, the thing is now easily adjustable, and can be increased in a matter of minutes. Each cylinder is now getting *precisely* the same metered amount of nitrous, whereas with the dry setup, things probably aren't so evenly mixed.
So, to make this long post even longer...wet setups (especially direct port) offer much more 'tune-ability' at a lower cost (JWT ECU/injectors $ vs. 300ZX fuel pump $), and you can run much bigger shots, or smaller ones, at will by merely changing the jetting.
Just my long, humble opinion
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Greg Perry, '93 SE-R w/ 149,000 miles, JWT pop, header, ProActive
clutch, ST bar, NOS direct-port 75hp, Autopower 4-point roll bar/harnesses.
[email protected] 1/4 mile, [email protected] 1/8 mile, 1.98 60-ft.
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My SE-R page, with videos
I don't think so. Let me tell you why.
I've run wet systems (single fogger first, now a direct-port setup) on my '93 for over a year now, with 106 dragstrip passes made.
The dry systems, I do agree to a point, are very safe and reliable. However, they do have their limitations, especially when it comes to adding the requisite fuel. Without modding the ECU at all, a 50 shot dry setup should be just fine. The O2 sensor can pick up on the added oxygen in the exhaust stream and increase the fuel flow through the injectors just fine. At less than a 100-shot, IMHO, the stock (259cc) injectors will be maxxed out, unable to supply the fuel the engine needs PLUS the added fuel needed by the increased oxygen levels from the nitrous.
Now, with a direct-port setup like I've got, the fuel is shot right past the injectors, through the fogger nozzles. Yes, it does draw from the same pressurized line that the injectors get their fuel from. And this is where the ability to run more than a 100 shot gets easier with a wet system: By merely adding a 300ZX TT fuel pump (or similar high-flowing unit), the ability to use a 100 shot or higher becomes much easier than with the dry setup.
With the dry setup, in order to run a 100 shot (like the JWT setup -- a great setup regardless), you need: JWT ECU (ain't cheap), and 370cc injectors (or bigger), and they ain't cheap either. You're looking at at least $1,000 for that setup, minimum.
300ZX TT fuel pumps (or similar) go in the $200-250 range, last time I checked. By merely making that mod, and adding a FP regulator, one can increase the nitrous flow to a much higher level, and safely. The stock injectors have no clue what's happening: They merely see the O2 signal as being pretty much spot-on, and adjust minutely, just like in everyday driving.
The trick to direct-port wet setups is: Fuel pressure and management. It took quite a while to get my setup working *just* right (playing around with different F jets, etc.).
But once we sorted it out, the thing is now easily adjustable, and can be increased in a matter of minutes. Each cylinder is now getting *precisely* the same metered amount of nitrous, whereas with the dry setup, things probably aren't so evenly mixed.
So, to make this long post even longer...wet setups (especially direct port) offer much more 'tune-ability' at a lower cost (JWT ECU/injectors $ vs. 300ZX fuel pump $), and you can run much bigger shots, or smaller ones, at will by merely changing the jetting.
Just my long, humble opinion
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Greg Perry, '93 SE-R w/ 149,000 miles, JWT pop, header, ProActive
clutch, ST bar, NOS direct-port 75hp, Autopower 4-point roll bar/harnesses.
[email protected] 1/4 mile, [email protected] 1/8 mile, 1.98 60-ft.
My SE-R page, with videos
Joined
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12,447 Posts
I use to have a dry system and now I have a wet system. I felt a big difference with the wet. I honestly don't know wich one is safer but I'd imagine the wet because it is a mixture of gas and nitrous comming in at the same time and not like a dry set up that is nitrous injected by itself.
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