[SmoothDaddyFig]

okay, gents.

So I was peeking at what all had to be done and its seems as if all kinds of cables splice off from the positive cable on its run from the battery to starter to alternator. So Im thinking of just splicing into the end of the stock positive cable where it had the hook up for the battery. Then just working it to the trunk with the cable I bought. That way I dont have to worry about splicing anything else. SHEESH!!
It was so much easier to do in the CRX.
--Will this set-up be okay?
-- Im putting the battery and tray right in the middle behind the rear seat. On the flattest spot where the spare goes.
--Rocketman, I read your tutorial but Im still confused about the 4 gauge and 8 gauge set-up you used. Thanks though!1

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SmoothDaddyFig

 

[Rocketman]

Ok here goes again....
There are a total of four wires coming off the battery terminal at the positive post.
#1 is the biggest fattest wire coming off the battery terminal and it goes directly down to the starter. No brances no slpices nothing except a straight cable run to the starter.
#2 & 3 are two smaller wires that have connectors about 2 or 3 inches from the battery terminal. One of these is for the alternator and the other i believe (lemme check the service manual here) looks like the other wire is the main circuit feed for the fuse block(s)
#4 s the fog light power wire.

Now some steps for install...
I cut off the terminal at the battery (cut all the wires off and strip the insulation back)

I then ran an 8 guage cable inside through the car and out towards the front of the fender beside the washer bottle fill neck, acrost the top of the radiator under the radiator core support and then spliced this cable into wires number 2 through 4. I used what is commonly referred to as a butt connector to do this (please no sexual inuendos here.....

) It could have been done a little better (soldered or a different style of connector but it works pretty well. I used an 8 guage butt connector and this is something that you should be able to find at your local stereo shop.

I also ran a 4 guage cable along the same route that i did the 8 guage. There was a hole in the inner fender right in between the upper portion of the strut tower and the firewall that i used to pass the cable into the engine compartment. I then ran this wire straight down to the starter terminal. Be sure to disconnect the old cable at the startere before connecting the new one. you don't want any shrts from an old cable hanging down. This completely eliminates wire #1 off the battery and it could technically be removed at this point because it is no longer needed. I just used a ring terminal for 4 guage wire that i picked up at advance auto to connect this one to the starter.

Hope that clears things up. And i am sorry i really have a tendency to get long winded but i would rather try and give you to much info than not enough. Hope fully i will have a website up with pics soon so people can see what i did. I will also post this writeup or something similar on there.

If you have any further questions e-mail me man. [email protected]

Talk to ya later.

 

[Rocketman]

BTW man i wouldn't recommend grounding to the exhaust (unless you have a full stainless exhaust) because the rust that gathers on the pipes can lower the resistance of the ground path back to the battery letting less juice go to the accessories that need it. Not doggin anyone just a thought.



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92 SE-R w/ CAI by hotshot, Battery relocate by Me, Tunes by Sony and JL, And communications by Icom

 

[SmoothDaddyFig]

So where does the alternator come into play in all this?
Isnt there a cable going to that?

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SmoothDaddyFig

 

[SERprise In WV]

"#2 & 3 are two smaller wires that have connectors about 2 or 3 inches from the battery terminal. One of these is for the alternator"