Well i disagree. if you need new rotors up front, which im sure you probaly do, i would do the upgrade to the AD22VF's. I love them. and if you gota replace the rotor, i would atleast rebuild the calp. and the thing is i dont trust my work totaly so i decided that it was easier and safer to get the upgrade.
parts arent that hard to find its just a matter of what you want to pay. the rotors are like 45 bucks from courtsey and thats about the same as regular stock rotors. then the calps you can get from about any parts store just make sure you get "loaded" calps. check to see if they have the "torque member" or mounting bracket depending on what they call it. You can probaly pick these up for about 80 a piece with a 80 dollar core charge probaly, dont quote me on those
. then you can take your old cores back they probaly wont notice, or if your one that thinks thats wrong dont do it.
i would also look at your rear brakes. put atleast new pads on. maybe rotors if you need them. but usualy the rears dont do a lot and not in bad shape. by putting new pads on the rear my car stops a hell of a lot better. i didnt rebuild the calp just slapped 15 dollar wagner pads from advanced on there they work great.
throughly bleed your system. you can go with expensive fluid but unless you know you are going to burn up fluid i personly wouldnt use it. i use the valveoline syntech from walmart. 5 bucks for a big quart of it. it has just as high of a boiling point as motul 600( i looked at ben's when we put it in ). most people realy like the fluid ive talked to, some performanve guys and some mechanics. ford fluid is good but slightly more than valveoline cheaper than motul tho. i figure at 5 bucks for a quart im going to change it frequently for the heck of it. gave me good pedal pressure too. and i used almost the full bottle when i flushed my system just to get clean fluid in there.
MC, well personaly i dont think you should change it. if you are worried about it i might think about just getting a new one from courtsey. but everyone i have talked to said the nx mc made the pedal mushy.
brake lines, ok they arent DOT aproved but the SMC lines are NICE. seeing them in person i am wanting a set. Steve did a good job in these lines. there are some of his products i wouldnt buy(he even said with his own mouth a few of his products are crap, be that they arent se-r products but they are crap) me and dad talked with him for a couple hours since dad makes brakes for a living. but the lines are worth their money. they just dont pass the whip test, which in reality the line never goes though that kinda strain in real life. they get pulled. Kojima broke a set of goodridge lines at the convention just by pulling on them, (
). he had them in his hand and pulled the fitting off by accident. personaly i would stay away from them, but its up to you. they will make your pedal even more firm
for sticking under the rims, be preparied to sit with a bench grinder for the better part of the afternoon. i started on my upgrade at 10am finished at 5pm. mainly cause we had to drive 20 mins to get to the grinder like 4 or 5 times. but after you get them fitted its a breeze. 2 bolts and the banjo bolt and the old brakes come off. slide new rotors on, 2 bolts, 2 pins, clips, pads, banjo bolt and you are ready to fill with new fluid. it will take a lot of fluid since the line will be emptyed somewhat so buy a lot of fluid.
and then bleed, do it a couple times i found its easier to put the car up on 4 jack stands and take all the wheels off. then go around the car 2 or 3 times
make them good. oh grease up your pins really good that helps alot. then bed in the pads right. do the kojima bedding tips makes your pads last longer.
as for upgrades on the back, there isnt much. according to jez you can put japan spec nx stuff back there they are slightly bigger. or you can do the even bigger upgrade and put maxima calps on nx rotors but i think its too much work. if you are that conserned with the calps have them rebuilt or replaced, along with rotors. i would guess replacing all 4 corners would cost maybe 500 dollars with everything you should need to do the work.
as for not doing the ad22vf upgrade unless you are on track thats up to you. i like the added thickness to the rotors so i dont have to replace them every year. had my old rotors turned and within a couple months they were warped. and i like the added saftey, they just take getting used to. you will be stoping way early at red lights by accident, then when you stomp them you will lock the front, but they are VERY modulatable. you can really control the brakes alot more, just wish i had SS lines so i could get more control. IMHO stoping is more important than speed/quickness. if you can break better,later,quicker you will beat the other person
.
any other questions
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Thats my opinion and I could be wrong
93 classic
Aztec Red, Automatic, POP, STB, OEC battery tie down, AD22VF's, Pirelli P4000's