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Infiniti Parts Guy
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979 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First off, this was the worst install I think I've done thus far. What a PITA to route the lines and attach the fittings and stuff. I have no clue how I managed to cut up my hands so badly, but I defintely donated some blood yesterday throughout the install.. :confused:

Here's what I used:
-Earl's Cooler
-Mocal sandwich plate (20mm threads)
-AN 10 braided stainless lines (bought 10 feet, used about 8.5ft or so)
-4 - 90º AN adapters
-A few rubber insulated hoseclamps and zip ties. (I'll find a better cover so the lines don't tear up the engine bay)
-Grey RTV (seal sandwich plate to oil filter bracket and thermostat on plate)
-15208-9E000 Oil Filter (it fits on a P10 - but had a 15208-65F00 just in case)

It wouldn't have been so bad, but the mocal adapter started leaking after I installed it, and it leaked BAD. Turns out there was a slight imperfection in the casting where the thermostat threads in and it was just enough to keep the o-ring from sealing and once under pressure it leaked quite a bit. It would create a small puddle in within 15 seconds or so. So I had to undo everything, fitting, lines, etc.. and then sealed up the thermostat cap with some grey rtv and the o-ring. I let it sit overnight and then refilled the system and started it up again this morning. Thankfully I didn't butcher the oil filter during the process, so i reused my slightly used (2 minutes) filter and there weren't any leaks.

The only thing is it looks like the oil isn't heating up to full operating temp, or it was getting too hot before (i'm guessing it's not heating up). If i'm on the highway, where before it was about 50psi hot at 2500rpms, it's now at 70psi-80psi after open highway cruising (oil cooling off?). But if i hit traffic where there's very little airflow it'll stay around 60psi at 2500rpms.

Peak psi at startup is down a few psi from where it was at, but warm idle and normal crusing seems to have higher pressure than before. After I stopped the car the lines were very warm to the touch and the cooler was warm so I want to say it's hot enough to open the thermostat and cool off the oil, but unfortunately my oil temp gauge isn't hooked up yet..
I have a spare lower pan and will have a bung welded on hopefully sometime this week for the temp sending unit.

I'll have pics of the cooler up in the next day or two...
 

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8,886 Posts
You need a oil temp gauge. It takes about 15 mins for the oil to heat up. Use a block off plate during the cold days (if you even have any).
 

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Premium Member
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9,405 Posts
So the sandwhich plate has a thermostat which won't let the oil go to the cooler until it reaches a certain temp? I want to add a cooler, but right now, it takes a long time for the oil to get above 120deg. Pics would be nice too. :) I'm going to add one of these, but I want to run it so the lines are hidden.
 

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www.FAIRTAX.org
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8,920 Posts
Great news Justin, I hope you aren't too beaten up lol. What are you going to do with your current oil pan once you swap on your spare?
 

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Infiniti Parts Guy
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979 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Right now when I head into work in the mornings it's in the mid-high 30's. When I head home from school it's probably in the 40's, but during the day it's up into the 70's still... I'm guessing it's cold enough right now to cover the cooler.

I'm thinking I'll just get some thin, black sheet metal to put in front of the cooler if necessary. I'll try and make it so it just clips on for my daily commute and is easy to remove if needed...

I have the spare lower pan sitting on my desk here at work and I'm gonna get it fixed up for the temp sender during lunch one day this week, hopefully I'll have time to install it over the weekend.
 

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Infiniti Parts Guy
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979 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
paNX2K&SE-R said:
What are you going to do with your current oil pan once you swap on your spare?
Not sure yet. Probably just going to sell it to someone else for cheap so they can do the same thing, you interested? It's sorta beat up as it was a bit dented from transit and I pounded it back out before installing the motor, so there are some parts where the paint is chipped off and stuff, but it still works fine...
 

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www.FAIRTAX.org
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8,920 Posts
Thats sort of why I was asking. It would be cool to have a "core" going around for VE owners to use that we can just buy and sell to each other for a set cost. I think since there are so few of us we wouldn't have to worry about someone dissapearing with it. As long as its in good enough shape to use while we get ours brazed then it should work fine. How much do you want for it Justin? You are the one setting the price for everyone since I'll sell it for the same when I am done with it.

JustinP10 said:
Not sure yet. Probably just going to sell it to someone else for cheap so they can do the same thing, you interested? It's sorta beat up as it was a bit dented from transit and I pounded it back out before installing the motor, so there are some parts where the paint is chipped off and stuff, but it still works fine...
 

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Professor Dingbat
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5,543 Posts
Maybe it would be a good idea to have a little tee valve so that you could bypass the cooler with this valve, and pass the oil through the cooler only on track days...or is the cooler needed even with street driving?
 

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Infiniti Parts Guy
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979 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
You'd need two bypass valves to "loop" the oil. I'm not sure I'd want to have to plumb that into the lines, it's already a PITA to get lines and fittings to work on their own. It definitely could be done though. Say like right off the sandwhich plate just have like an H configuration with two bypass pieces. Seems like a lot of work. A plate to block airflow from the cooler may be easier to work with and just as effective?
 

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Premium Member
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9,405 Posts
paNX2K&SE-R said:
Thats sort of why I was asking. It would be cool to have a "core" going around for VE owners to use that we can just buy and sell to each other for a set cost. I think since there are so few of us we wouldn't have to worry about someone dissapearing with it. As long as its in good enough shape to use while we get ours brazed then it should work fine. How much do you want for it Justin? You are the one setting the price for everyone since I'll sell it for the same when I am done with it.

I used paint remover on my oil pan since the paint on the inside was coming off. I didn't want it to plug the oil pickup. If you want a new oil pan, the B15 pan works.
 

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8,886 Posts
The thermostats on oil coolers setups always allow a small amount of oil to bypass the thermostat even when cold. This insures that no air pockets form in the oil cooler causing starvation during crossover times. Keep in mind; cooler setups are best when kept really simple.
 

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JustinP10 said:
....A plate to block airflow from the cooler may be easier to work with and just as effective?
Thats all I am going to do. I've got a sheet of stainless that I will cut so that it forms tabs that snap around the cooler to hold it in place (i.e., no screws or bolts, just one piece).
 

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Infiniti Parts Guy
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979 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
jacen99SE said:
Thats all I am going to do. I've got a sheet of stainless that I will cut so that it forms tabs that snap around the cooler to hold it in place (i.e., no screws or bolts, just one piece).
That's what i was thinking. Something thin, but will bend it so it "clips" around the endtanks on the cooler.
 

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Just LTrain Again..
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1,147 Posts
JustinP10 said:
That's what i was thinking. Something thin, but will bend it so it "clips" around the endtanks on the cooler.
Wouldn't that still "cool" since the oil is still moving away from the block? Maybe some insulation will help keep the heat in? Just wondering.
 

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Infiniti Parts Guy
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979 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
It'll still be cooled some due to the heat dissapating into the lines and the cooler itself, but without airflow on the cooler it'll be MUCH less effective and will allow the oil to heat up enough.

On a side note. I've read that the oil really should heat up to 180+ or whatever it was, but with a thinner oil, is this really necessary? It'll still flow fine when cooler, does the heat help in other ways?
 

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8,886 Posts
Sludge forms more easily at the lower/higher temps. Use a good syn oil. Its the best you can do. Also, a block off plate in front and behind the cooler is helpful. And, the oil also takes longer to heat up because of the bigger capacity.
 

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Just LTrain Again..
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1,147 Posts
Sorry this if off the topic here but i am looking for big tom. He just sent me a PM and his PM box is full so I can;t reply. This is the only place I ever see him post so I thought he might see this here or at least get a thread notification. Mods are free to delete if you want. My apologies.

-Linus

bigtom said:
justin what happened to the oil pressure. how much did it drop?
 
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