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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Here are some pics from a highport I just purchased to replace my lowport. It looks like there is rust on the CAMs. What do I clean it with or should they just be replaced?

Thanks!

 

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Coropate greed hater
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If there is no rust on the cam lobes, you don't need to sweat it. It does look like someone wasn't turning the crank over to keep the valvetrain lubed while it sat there for however long it did.
 

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Still not my president
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Send that hit back to whoever you bought it from and make them opay shipping thats complete bullshit.
 

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SR20JET POWERED!!!
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it could have sat for a while and just oxidized. it looks like light surrface rust, just hit it with some scotch brite
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info. I picked up a Scotch buffing wheel for for a drill (it says that it's made for light rust) to buff it out.

I'm trying to pull the CAMs off and I don't seem to have an open end wrench big enough to get around the camshaft. What size do I need?

Thanks!
 

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it's an se-l..not an se-R
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voiddweller said:
Thanks for the info. I picked up a Scotch buffing wheel for for a drill (it says that it's made for light rust) to buff it out.

I'm trying to pull the CAMs off and I don't seem to have an open end wrench big enough to get around the camshaft. What size do I need?

Thanks!

A 1" wrench.
 

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AWD owns me
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Don't even take the cams out. I ran into the same problem with cams sitting around. Put some oil on the lobes and wait about 10 minutes. After, use your finger and rub the oil into the rust. It will turn the oil reddish brown (rust). Wipe it off and repeat until it is all gone. I should have taken pics.
 

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AWD owns me
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Sh*t, I'll take some S4s if you're handing em out..lol
 

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this is a jdm motor... no one was trying to pull a fast one on you, alot of motors that come from japan are like this espically if the motor has been sitting for a while. you must understand that japan is a very humid place with salt water floating around in the air. i wouldnt sweat the rust too much. its just surface corrosion, i would leave them in there and then change the oil after start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks for the suggestions. I decided to leave the CAMs in for now, but I loosend the CAM caps, so I guess I'll need an inch/lb torque wrench to tighten them back down.

Any suggestions on a decent torque wrench that won't break the bank? I'm thinking that this one at Harbor Freight should work fine.

Thanks!
 

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The one and only!!
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voiddweller said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I decided to leave the CAMs in for now, but I loosend the CAM caps, so I guess I'll need an inch/lb torque wrench to tighten them back down.

Any suggestions on a decent torque wrench that won't break the bank? I'm thinking that this one at Harbor Freight should work fine.

Thanks!
Looks fine if all you need is inch/lbs.
 

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working on it
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voiddweller said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I decided to leave the CAMs in for now, but I loosend the CAM caps, so I guess I'll need an inch/lb torque wrench to tighten them back down.

Any suggestions on a decent torque wrench that won't break the bank? I'm thinking that this one at Harbor Freight should work fine.

Thanks!
You probably already know this, but be sure to tighten those cam caps from the middle out one turn at a time. ;)
 

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hell, if you already loosened the cam caps, might as well take the cam out and clean it properly. Block the chain and mark some links/teeth before you remove the cam.
 

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Drive it like ya stole it
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zip ties hold the chain on the cam sprokets.
 
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