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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I made it to the track today and here are the results. How do they compare to most se-r timeslips? All opinions welcome.

60ft- 2.35
660ft- 9.76 mph- 73.84
1000ft- 12.63
1320ft- 15.08 mph-92.26


I have a 91 se-r with a JDM replacement
OBX header/mid-pipe, and a Megan cat back.

Next time I will have an AEM cold air kit how much improvement will I see with this cold air kit? Also do you think I will see any improvement in taking the baffle out of the muffler?

Thanks
 

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SR20DETERMINED
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thats a good time for the mods you have. the intake will get you a couple tenths off your time. keep up the good work
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the reply. How much do you think your flywheel helped on your 1/4 mile times?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
any more comments?
 

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/// God Speed! ///
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91REDSE-R said:
Well I made it to the track today and here are the results. How do they compare to most se-r timeslips? All opinions welcome.

60ft- 2.35
660ft- 9.76 mph- 73.84
1000ft- 12.63
1320ft- 15.08 mph-92.26


I have a 91 se-r with a JDM replacement
OBX header/mid-pipe, and a Megan cat back.

Next time I will have an AEM cold air kit how much improvement will I see with this cold air kit? Also do you think I will see any improvement in taking the baffle out of the muffler?

Thanks
OK so these times are with your stock air box and a baffle left in your muffler ?
Dude baffles are made to be taken out especially at the track. Baffles choke down exhaust to make it quieter. Remove the baffle, install your CAI and look for at least 2-3 10ths to come off your time!!
 

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Professor Dingbat
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5,543 Posts
I went from a modified airbox to an AEM CAI and the difference was like night and day. Like you, I had a header and exhaust at the time. I found there to be more power everywhere, and much better throttle response.

I've never been to a drag strip so I can't compare numbers (there isnt one within 80 miles) but the flywheel was also like night and day. I did the CAI, flywheel and pullies in one summer and let me tell you it was a changed car. With the flywheel and pullies, the engine no longer feels like it's fighting something, it revs very naturally, very quickly
 

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lack of sr20 owner
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did u shift to 4th when u raced? 92 mph could be a high 14 E.T. I got 14.8 @ 91 once, and 14.8 @92 when i shifted to 4th. although i dont suggest shifting to 4th, 99% of the time you get a higher MPH, but a higher E.T. as well.
 

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Carving Corners
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nice times man.
knockin on 14s door.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the replies. I shifted into 4th about 200ft before the finish line. Thats where the car feels like it quits pulling (7200rpms). Next time I will remove the silencer and have the AEM cold air installed. Maybe if I had crossed in 3rd maybe it would have ran a 14 second pass. We will see next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That brings up a good question. I still have the original motor that came out of the car. Should I swap the intake cam or is the jdm one o.k.?

Thanks for the help
 

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old school
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Good job bro!

As long as you got a high port replacement engine, dont worry about the cam swap, you already have it.
 

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Professor Dingbat
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i wouldn't even with a stockish car shift at redline in first then short shift around 7100 or so in the higher gears
 

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Does anyone have a stock dyno graph. I just know that with high winding cars, your first gear is simply a get you moving gear.

The reason is alot of people think that winding up the gears is what gets you going faster. That is not always right.

Take my Z28, I set my programming to shift @ 6500 rpm. Then I dynoed it and found it made peak rwhp @ 6100 rpm. I then went to the track and let the car shift itself, ran 11.9's-12.0's. Manually shifted @ 6300, went 11.8's. Manually shifted first gear @ 5800 rpm and shifted 2nd and 3rd @ 6300, ran 11.7's.

Had a guy with a big block chevy dyno his chasis car. He said take it up to 7500 because that is what he does at the track. You know what rpm he made peak rwhp...6000 rpm. He was basically just spinning his motor for the sake of spinning it. He was actually wasting time.

I could be wrong because I am referencing cars with lotsa torque.
 

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Professor Dingbat
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If you have a dyno graph you can figure out your optimum shift points for every gear. Multiply the torque at intervals, say 100 by the gear ratio in that gear, it will give you torque output to the wheels in that gear. Do that for all five gears. Where torque in one gear is the same as it would be if you upshifted and dropped RPM, that is where you shift. Using this method you see it makes sense to shift highest in first, and progressively shift at a lower RPM as you go through the gears.
 

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lack of sr20 owner
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it depends on all the mods made to the car... i know that the cams made for my car, JWT s4's, make more HP higher up in the RPM range than stockers, so it is beneficial for me to just about redline.

It really depends on your car, and using a dyno definitely helps find optimum shift points. sometimes when people shift at their peak HP, they are out of their power range in the next gear, so actually going over a little bit helps put the car right in the power range when you shift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So does the JDM replacement motor have the good cams in it? I thought the 91 cams were better. Thanks for the replies.

James
 

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lack of sr20 owner
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the 91 intake cam is better. the exhaust cams are the same in b13's - b14's The JDM motor should have the 91 cam in it.
 
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