How much are you asking for the hood?
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
Working IAC, FICD assembly? I can't cure my idle/timing problem w/o a set that is working... not that the cars runs poorly, by any means.
Air box and tubing to the PAIR? My tube into the airbox has broken off... glued back together w/plastic weld
.
Shipping to 33635... where it's warm all year long.
Later,
Mark
Air box and tubing to the PAIR? My tube into the airbox has broken off... glued back together w/plastic weld
.Shipping to 33635... where it's warm all year long
.Later,
Mark
PM's sent, check your PM's.
Sunroof/Hood.
superlight ones. I'm still not going to have that
worked out until I have a prototype together.
The sunroof outer trim piece up on top actually
isn't plastic, it's fiberglass. And that's why I
swapped over the sunroof, so that's not intact.
All the interior stuff is intact, if someone had
smashed sunroof glass, this one is factory tinted,
and in perfect shape, but the rubber and plastic
trim should be removed/replaced from old one.
Fiberglass *sucks*, also, The rear 2/5th's of the
fiberglass outer trim piece first cracked, then flew
off somewhere, no idea where. The front 3/5th's
is still on it, but the scale needs to be brushed off,
the rubber resealed, and the top trim piece sealed
in with the rubber.
Peter
Shipping's a real hard thing on hoods. Even forSERprise In WV said:
superlight ones. I'm still not going to have that
worked out until I have a prototype together.
The sunroof outer trim piece up on top actually
isn't plastic, it's fiberglass. And that's why I
swapped over the sunroof, so that's not intact.
All the interior stuff is intact, if someone had
smashed sunroof glass, this one is factory tinted,
and in perfect shape, but the rubber and plastic
trim should be removed/replaced from old one.
Fiberglass *sucks*, also, The rear 2/5th's of the
fiberglass outer trim piece first cracked, then flew
off somewhere, no idea where. The front 3/5th's
is still on it, but the scale needs to be brushed off,
the rubber resealed, and the top trim piece sealed
in with the rubber.
Peter
Hey, Peter. Sent you 2 emails w/pics via the mailing list... probably still downloading.
Let me know how else I can help:
[email protected]
Peace out,
Mark
.Let me know how else I can help:
[email protected]
Peace out,
Mark
Pics
If I need to rip a bunch of stuff apart, it's going
to take a little while.
Peter
Need pics that give me a better idea of the locationvladha said:Hey, Peter. Sent you 2 emails w/pics via the mailing list... probably still downloading
Let me know how else I can help:
[email protected]
Peace out,
Mark
If I need to rip a bunch of stuff apart, it's going
to take a little while.
Peter
Hahahahaha... seriously, you will need to "move" some things, but not have to rip anything out.
Stand next to the passenger side front bumper, facing the engine. Look down into the bay at the oil filter, then look left towards the firewall. You'll see the idle screw, which sits on top of the IAC. Look a little further down, and you'll see the FICD, it juts out perpendicular to the IAC, it's the bronze hexagonal cylinder.
The reason you'll have to move stuff is because your hands won't be able to squeeze in there to get the 4 bolts holding everything on. As it is, you'll end up doing the bottom left bolt blind... can't be seen from above. Be careful removing the FICD. It has a spring loaded piston that will shoot out, piston and spring, if it's not removed gently... ask me how I know.
I've removed the assembly twice. The first time was the hardest because I had know idea if I was going to be able to get my hand in there.
I'll look for the se-r.net link later, if you still want some info.
Take your time, my car's still driveable... I just want it to be tunable.
Peace out,
Mark
Stand next to the passenger side front bumper, facing the engine. Look down into the bay at the oil filter, then look left towards the firewall. You'll see the idle screw, which sits on top of the IAC. Look a little further down, and you'll see the FICD, it juts out perpendicular to the IAC, it's the bronze hexagonal cylinder.
The reason you'll have to move stuff is because your hands won't be able to squeeze in there to get the 4 bolts holding everything on. As it is, you'll end up doing the bottom left bolt blind... can't be seen from above. Be careful removing the FICD. It has a spring loaded piston that will shoot out, piston and spring, if it's not removed gently... ask me how I know
.I've removed the assembly twice. The first time was the hardest because I had know idea if I was going to be able to get my hand in there.
I'll look for the se-r.net link later, if you still want some info.
Take your time, my car's still driveable... I just want it to be tunable
.Peace out,
Mark
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
