[Ben]

I installed the speedo gear, speedo gear retainer, and tapped on the roller bearing onto the Quaife. The tranny can FINALLY be put back together.

Ray Kawski graciously let me borrow his busted roller bearing inside to use as a _____ (word that means something with the same diameter as the circular thing you are trying to pound on) to pound in the new roller bearing. Worked PERFECTLY. 2-3 minutes of rapping with a hammer and whalla. The speedo gear and retainer slipped right on. Now the FUN part- (trying to) put the tranny back together

------------------
Ben98SentraSE
98 Sentra SE TURBO and crashed 93 NX2000

 

[Mike]

Sweet man!...sweet..

Mike

 

[skyliner]

I believe the word you wanted to use was hammer B!tch.

[This message has been edited by skyliner (edited 07-23-2001).]

 

[JimR]

A...

...drift?

 

[Ben]

That's the word!!!!

 

[autoxer7]

Ben,

I'm thinking of installing a Quaife and was looking at my FSM trying to figure out how hard this is to do.

It looks like I have to do the following:

1. Remove final drive gear.
2. Remove speedometer drive gear by cutting it.
3. Press out differential side bearings.
4. Remove viscous coupling

Do I then install the Quaife over the viscous coupling and re-install as follows?

1. Install final drive gear (w/ loctite on bolts).
2. Install speedometer drive gear.
3. Press on differential side bearings w/ drift.

Thanks,

Steve
'92 SE-R

 

[Ben]

I don't really see why busting the stuff off the stock diff is necessary. It's all that work to get the bearing off, busting stuff up to get to it, I say bah to that. It's $40 for a new bearing, speedo gear, and speedo gear retainer, so I think it's worth it to keep your stock diff intact and set it aside and get all new parts (as I did).

You basically just replace the open diff leaving the viscous coupling and shove it all back together.

 

[autoxer7]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Ben98SentraSE:
I think it's worth it to keep your stock diff intact and set it aside and get all new parts (as I did).

You basically just replace the open diff leaving the viscous coupling and shove it all back together. </font>

Okay, this is a little clearer now. I can remove the viscous coupling without removing the speedometer drive gear and pressing out the differential side bearings, right?

Also, if all I'm replacing is the diff with the Quaife do I need any other parts like a new front bearing snap ring?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[Ben]

The only things you need to place are the things in that picture at the top of the thread. The speedo gear, speedo gear retainer, and "roller" bearing. I have the part numbers:

38440-D2100 - Bearing Passenger side
38431-D2100 - Stopper Speedometer
32701-70E00 - Gear Drive Speedometer

www.nissanparts.cc has good prices for these. I recommend them, especially since it's so easy to make an order with part numbers on the site.

 

[Ben]

Oh, and I have more pics here:

http://laf.cioe.com/~benbobbo/quaife1
http://laf.cioe.com/~benbobbo/opentranny
http://laf.cioe.com/~benbobbo/quaifeready
http://laf.cioe.com/~benbobbo/raystoolz

You may want to contact Ray Kawski about borrowing his homemade diff preload testing tool (old axle with plate and nut welded on) and his destroyed roller bearing inside to use as a race to tap the new bearing on.

 

[autoxer7]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Ben98SentraSE:

You may want to contact Ray Kawski about borrowing his homemade diff preload testing tool (old axle with plate and nut welded on) and his destroyed roller bearing inside to use as a race to tap the new bearing on.</font>

Thanks for the info, Ben. Much appreciated!

But, just as I was getting warm fuzzies it looks like I'm going to have to adjust the differential side bearing preload, right? That's why I need Ray's tool. Did you have to install a new shim?

Is it a bad idea not to go thru this preload procedure... like things might go Boom!?

Thanks again,

Steve

 

[Ben]

Ray's big tool is to CHECK the preload, not adjust it. Neither Ray nor I had to shim ours. Ours were both in spec. I have NO CLUE what shimming the diff entails. I just hoped for the best. All the advice I could give on that is the same- hope for the best.

Here are some tips I had at home that I just remembered:

Case is: 20-22 ft-lbs
Preload using tool is: 26-61 in-lbs.

For the preload you basically want to keep cranking the tq up
from 26in-lbs until the axle turns w/o clicking the tq
wrench. That will tell you the pre-load. If its between
26 and 61 in-lbs you are good and don't need to change the shim.

Buy LockTite for the diff bolts

39-50 ft lbs for them

 

[nj1266]

Ben,

Let me just say that I am very weary of putting Quaifes in SR20DE trannys after my experience. I hope that your tranny will survive the Quaife. Mine did not. I will have Datsun Dynamics try and build me a tranny that will not break in the future. But for now I am keeping my tranny SEALED and QUAIFELESS. VLSD is fine for now.

------------------
Naji Dahi, aka Red Mist
Fast 1998 SE-R Last of the SE-Rs
Slow 1996 G20 (AGXs/G20t springs, K&N drop in filter)

 

[autoxer7]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by nj1266:

Let me just say that I am very weary of putting Quaifes in SR20DE trannys after my experience. I hope that your tranny will survive the Quaife. Mine did not.
</font>

What happened? Who installed the Quaife? Was your tranny cyro'd, shot peened, and welded?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[autoxer7]

Thanks again for all the info, Ben!

Steve

 

[nj1266]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by autoxer7:
What happened? Who installed the Quaife? Was your tranny cyro'd, shot peened, and welded?

Thanks,

Steve </font>

The tranny was welded and cryo'd, but not shotpeened. I broke 4th gear at the road course. I still do not know why it happened. I did not open the tranny yet. And my car was only making 147 whp. So it could not have been the massive hp.



------------------
Naji Dahi, aka Red Mist
Fast 1998 SE-R Last of the SE-Rs
Slow 1996 G20 (AGXs/G20t springs, K&N drop in filter)

 

[autoxer7]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by nj1266:
The tranny was welded and cryo'd, but not shotpeened. I broke 4th gear at the road course. I still do not know why it happened.
</font>

As I understand it the cryo treatment will make the gears harder but also more brittle. The shotpeening helps to restore the gears to a less brittle state.

How did you like the Quaife for the time the car was running?

Steve

 

[jacen99SE]

The cryo treatment should include a heat treatment after to restore most of the toughness.

[This message has been edited by jacen99SE (edited 08-10-2001).]

 

[nj1266]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by autoxer7:
How did you like the Quaife for the time the car was running?

Steve
</font>

Coming from a car with no VLSD (98 SE-R) to a Quaife made a big difference. I was able to cut my times by about 3-4 seconds around ButtonWillow raceway. I have not run the car yet with the VLSD only. I will see how different it feels. I am going to stick with the stock VLSD until I open up the broken tranny and figure otu what happened and why it happened.



------------------
Naji Dahi, aka Red Mist
Fast 1998 SE-R Last of the SE-Rs
Slow 1996 G20 (AGXs/G20t springs, K&N drop in filter)

 

[unijabnx2000]

I know its old thread, but i need old info.

Any one know the part number for the Quaife Diff? (not the autotech PN)

The Company is saying they would need a samply diff to be able to make one for the B13/B15/P11.
but they might have the diagrams already just archived...

Hence why id like to know the PN