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Discussion Starter #1
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CruznSER:
1. What causes high EGT's?</font>
Lean A/F ratio's and/or severe ignition retard.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">2. What is the main killer of turbo motors (low oil pressure or detonation)?</font>
Honestly, I don't know of any blown up SR20's. Not to say it can't happen, it just seems thanks to plug and play tuning with JWT it's rare for us.

#1 cause of blow turbo motors is Detonation and/or lean conditions.

Water injection is a GREAT saftey cushion for that.


<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">3. How much does a complete stage 2 kit cost complete?</font>
Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
ahahahahahahahahahahahahahaahahahahah

Okay with that out of the way, the straigh up bare bones stage II used to be $4995. Add $500 for ball bearing turbo, $350 for water, and extra coin for the JWT ECU water set up.

Mine was $5180 shipped with, BB turbo, water injection, TiAl 40mm wastage, custom 3" downpipe off the turbo, minus the ECU as I alread had it and had it done myself.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">My goal is to have a fairly high boosted (16psi daily driven and 18psi on the strip on pump 92) street vehicle here on the streets of San Diego where alot of turboed hondas rule. It will be the bomb to have a turboed boxy sentra representing the nissan clan amongst these infamous hondas.
Peace! [/B]</font>
Welp I pulled a 116mph trap speed with not an ounce stripped out, on pump gas at 16psi.


Dump at least 1/2 race gas in with the pump, run a 1mm water jet, and turn the beotch up to 20psi and your out kicking so much ass they'll ask you to go home.

Here's the run I mentioned above:
http://www.ctwd.net/ser/mpeg/se-r-drag1.mpg (1.3meg)
 

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RE-F/ING-TIRED:)
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Jay said;
Here's the run I mentioned above:
http://www.ctwd.net/ser/mpeg/se-r-drag1.mpg (1.3meg)

i tried to watch for the rear-end squat to determine how far you get before you hit 2nd gear. appears to be ~40-50'. close?
POW,that little red rocket appeared to be shot out of a huge slingshot. nice run :)
 

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one major killer of sr20s are spun bearings, but not always on turbo cars, but the sr motor is all that and a bag of chips. only problem is too small of factory injectors, witch will be replaced (hopefully) with your stage II kit.

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98 se-r w/ p/r cai,jwt s3 cams, stillen header, courtesy exhaust, ur pullies, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, NOS nitrous kit, eibach springs, kyb struts, st sways, cusco camber plates, f/r strut braces, lotsa bushings, and a bunch of other crap not really worth mentioning
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Jay Hass:
Welp I pulled a 116mph trap speed with not an ounce stripped out, on pump gas at 16psi.


Dump at least 1/2 race gas in with the pump, run a 1mm water jet, and turn the beotch up to 20psi and your out kicking so much ass they'll ask you to go home.
</font>
I am a little confused with swapping out water jets.

1. Do the water injection kits that come as an option to f-max kit have multiple jets?
2. Will the JWT water setup be able to recognize the swapped nozzle? Is it plug and play? Do i jus swap the nozzle and crank up the boost?

I also read about 100k+ SR20 motors running strong with the turbos. Maybe I might jus keep the motor that's in my "box". Although it's seen better days.



[This message has been edited by CruznSER (edited 02-13-2001).]
 

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I am currently jus learning about turbos and I am confident that I have gotten the basics down for it. I have a few questions that I would like to leave out in the open to you guys.

1. What causes high EGT's?
2. What is the main killer of turbo motors (low oil pressure or detonation)?
3. How much does a complete stage 2 kit cost complete?

I know piecing a kit together will be cheaper but as for now I find it an added convenience to buy a kit as a whole where as compared to piecing together a puzzle and eventually missing pieces and holding me back more time.

My goal is to have a fairly high boosted (16psi daily driven and 18psi on the strip on pump 92) street vehicle here on the streets of San Diego where alot of turboed hondas rule. It will be the bomb to have a turboed boxy sentra representing the nissan clan amongst these infamous hondas. Plus it wouldn't hurt to spank few of the known hondas here with a "Sentra". Thanks for any replies I may get with this post.

Peace!
 

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I think the water jets are almost like NOS jets, and you might get a few in the kit. and I think that the JWT computer will not recognise the new nozzle. iirc all the jwt comptuer will do is turn on the water pump when you get above a certain boost level. and I don't think it is just as easy as more water more boost either, unfortunately.

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98 se-r w/ p/r cai,jwt s3 cams, stillen header, courtesy exhaust, ur pullies, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, NOS nitrous kit, eibach springs, kyb struts, st sways, cusco camber plates, f/r strut braces,stillen lower control arm brace, lotsa bushings, and a bunch of other crap not really worth mentioning
 

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FYI - you should be able to get a stage 2 kit for close to $3440 w/ no options.

Also note Fmax charges $250 for the thermo coating, something I would suggest you get done locally.

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Brian
AIM: pdxs2000
91 se-r (fmax stg2 @ 1.1 bar)
00 s2000
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by PDX S2000:
FYI - you should be able to get a stage 2 kit for close to $3440 w/ no options.

Also note Fmax charges $250 for the thermo coating, something I would suggest you get done locally.

</font>
Everybody that seems to know Nissan is local here. I am a hop skip away from Jim Wolf, a 10 min. drive away from SR20development and a good 30 min. drive from F-Max. Consider me lucky. Hmmm 3440 for a stage ll..please tell me where to go!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by PDX S2000:
FYI - you should be able to get a stage 2 kit for close to $3440 w/ no options.

</font>
Bwaaa haaaaa what!?

Sorry but that's wrong man. The stage I is not even that cheap. The Hotshot kit is $3995. My dealer *cost* was $5180 shipped with no ECU, and the only options being TiAl gate, BB center section and full 3" downpipe.

Call F-Max and ask them for yourself.

Regarding the Jets, you just unscrew it, swap the jet and screw it back in. Pick your jet and go. It's that easy. If your going to run 116 race gas a .4mm jet is good, .7 is cool with a race gas mix to 18-19psi, and a 1mm will do 18psi on pump gas (YMMV)



[This message has been edited by Jay Hass (edited 02-14-2001).]
 

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Fmax Stg II B13
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I had two close friends, both of which obviously run businesses, tell me dealer cost (at least for them?) was $3440 + shipping w/o ECU core charge or any options. I also wonder if the Tial wastegate is now standard, as my kit came with one? I just think you should know where everything stands before you start bargaining.

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Brian
AIM: pdxs2000
91 se-r (fmax stg2 @ 1.1 bar)
00 s2000
 

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Fmax Stg II B13
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Ohhhh, god, I'm an idiot... VERY SORRY... I meant, $4340.

uhmmm yahhh, I'll just crawl back in my corner now.

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Brian
AIM: pdxs2000
91 se-r (fmax stg2 @ 1.1 bar)
00 s2000
 

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Fmax Stg II B13
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That makes more sense, I remember thinking "man, this is more than I paid for my se-r"


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Brian
AIM: pdxs2000
91 se-r (fmax stg2 @ 1.1 bar)
00 s2000
 

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This is in regards to water injection. I would like to know if water injection would be considered overkill safety-wise when used with a lower comp. motor (8.5:1) Instead of running a 1mm jet when I want to go 20psi, maybe no jetting at all? Is this possible? The race mixture would be half c16 and half 92 octane pump gas.

Thanks
 
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