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I can spell you.....
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I have specific questions.... The place I'm going to go for powdercoating had a few concerns....

First, this thing. What is it and do I need it. He told me that it will melt off in the oven... a concern? In addition, this "rubberish" lining is around various parts of the inside of the VC. Yet again, does this matter if melted?


Second, this thing. I can just rip it off right? because the platic is rusted onto the metal piece, and will melt in the oven anyway. I'll just have to find something to hold the tube up.


I've never heard of ppl have problems with ppl powdercoating, maybe since these guys don't specialize in valvecovers (are industrial) they are making sure.

Anything important I should know? they can tape the two metal "tubes" that extend out from the cover. Then you have to sandblast it and degrease it and you're ready to go.

Searching produced no results to my concerns.

Experiences? Concerns to be aware of.

Thanks :)
 

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/// God Speed! ///
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I had the exact same concerns when I had my VC powdercoated. The rubber stuff on the underside did not melt. I was assured by other forum members that it would not melt and it didn't.
I would remove the rubber rings that the VC bolts go through.
 

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I can spell you.....
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Storm88000 said:
Why bother with powdercoating the underside? No one sees it?
I'm not powdercoating the inside. that would suck if the paint cracked and got into the engine. :eek:

You've gotta really clean up the oil on the inside b/c when it's in the oven (like 400 degrees) the burnt oil will flow, and leak onto the VC (therefore ruining/damaging what they painted). That's why I'm going to sandblast/degrease it, esp in thse oil guide areas (not visible-kinda tunnel like). In fact, the guy said I have to do this.

Its311Pete said:
I had the exact same concerns when I had my VC powdercoated. The rubber stuff on the underside did not melt. I was assured by other forum members that it would not melt and it didn't.
I would remove the rubber rings that the VC bolts go through.
But what exactly is that thing? *just incase* I wanna know if it's important, and if anything will happen if distroyed. But that's good to know that it hasn't happened to others, cause the guy just said "there's a good chance it will melt" especially for that plastic part. And with my shitty luck with my car where nothing seems to go right and things break when I touch them, I want to be aware of the consequences.

And I have removed all the rubber gromets.

Did you clean the inside of the VC yourself? or get the company to do it? If you did it yourself, what cleaning agents did you use?

It's amazing that those parts can withstand their oven temp.
 

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I can spell you.....
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
nizzan4u2nv said:
The valve cover is already subdued to intense heat conditions already, how much hotter can it be in an oven.
I've heard that their ovens are at least 100-150 degress hotter then our engine conditions. Just what I've heard though. Otherwise I wouldn't care :)
 

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Coropate greed hater
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Hmmm, I knew there had to be a Canuck ricer somewhere! J/K Chucky! :D Hope you get you answers quick. :)
 

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I can spell you.....
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Harris said:
Hmmm, I knew there had to be a Canuck ricer somewhere! J/K Chucky! :D Hope you get you answers quick. :)
lol, I can't believe you know the Canucks! ;) woot!! (I'm actually one of the few candians that hates ice hockey).... :eek:

Well Harris, I've come to accept my ricey side. I'm just trying to keep it under control.... :rolleyes:
 

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Veritas
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Most powdercoating places will bake a part in the 350*-400* range for about 20-30 minutes. Having said that...I have powdercoated 4 valve covers in the last year, and have never had a problem with that plastic thingy (I don't know what it is, either) at all. It will be completely safe, as will the rubber-ish sealant underneath.

The oil on the underside of the valve cover shouldn't be of any concern, either: It will just be hot oil, is all. I have not touched the underside of the valve covers I've done, and so far, so good. Media blast the top and sides of the valve cover, hit with a de-greaser, then powdercoat. 'Pre' from www.eastwoodcompany.com is a good pre-powdercoating solution to de-grease and clean the top/sides.
Good luck.
 

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SR20GE P11
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Here's my valve cover I got from forum member Muleman this past week, $45.00 (shipped back to me). What he calls black wrinkle. I like. :D Maybe you want to try Muleman out.


 

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I can spell you.....
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
paradyme said:
Maybe you want to try Muleman out.
Wow, that's one sexy VC! :eek: I'm up in Canada, so it would cost me WAY too much in shipping to send it to the states and back. I'd rather pay to have it done here :)

Thanks for your input guys! Looks like I'll sandblast out the oil, and degrease it, then go for it! :D
 

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Undecided
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I have a question. I want the letters on the VC to stand out. So I thought I'd just leave them silver. How do you guys do this? Seems like you could sand it off after the powder coating. Then you take a chance at scratching the rest of it..... Can I just tape over it?
 

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I powdercoated 2 valve covers so far. That plastic thing under the cover is the PCV vent. It will NOT melt. It gets a little soft, but doesn't melt. It'll harden right back up.

If you want to have your letters not coated, then you need to put some hard industrial tape over them, and cut with a small knife.

Oh, and you WILL need to clean and degrease the underside of the valve cover. I didn't do that with my first one, and the oil boiled and ran onto the paint, and stained it.

Be sure to have them clear coat it!

Also, when they are done, clean the underside of the valve cover very well to get the sand and other materials out of the baffles.
 

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paradyme said:
Here's my valve cover I got from forum member Muleman this past week, $45.00 (shipped back to me). What he calls black wrinkle. I like. :D Maybe you want to try Muleman out.



That's a pretty hot looking VC.
 
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