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Discussion Starter #1
To remove the steering lock, you have to drill out those two "sheer-type" screws, as far as I know. When you remove them, does that whole column piece move around? What do you do after you drill those screws out? Just looking for osme heads up before I do this. Thanks in advance.
 

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LogicalRetard said:
To remove the steering lock, you have to drill out those two "sheer-type" screws, as far as I know. When you remove them, does that whole column piece move around? What do you do after you drill those screws out? Just looking for osme heads up before I do this. Thanks in advance.

You dont have to drill them out , just use a pin punch and a hammer and tap them in the direction to loosen them , that will make them loosen up , then you can just screw them out , replace with alen bolts or new sheer type screws ... as far as the actual removing of the mechanism , I havent done that yet , so ??
 

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LogicalRetard said:
Cool. Does just removing the "sheer-type" screws and replacing them with different ones completely get rid of the steering lock?
NO ... You will have to remove the internal mechanism after you get the ign switch assy out , the sheer screws just hold the ign switch on the column ...
 

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I just relocated my ignition switch off to the side next to the HV/AC controls. It is held in place with a couple of zip ties.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was about to call you on this, Russell. I was thinking about relocating it, or just eliminating it and using a push butoon starter. Too many ideas, too small of head. Hrm...... :D
 

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Yeah, I thought about a push button start and a on off switch for igniton too. Then I decided that I did not want to mess with all of the wireing involved so I kept the switch and just moved it to the side. The key always stays in it. The real off switch is the master Kill anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Haha, yeah, I hear you. I didn't want to loose the option of switching just the power on without cranking it over so you can prime the pump, etc...

Do you have a 2-pole or 4-pole kill swtich?
 

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Russell said:
Yeah, I thought about a push button start and a on off switch for igniton too. Then I decided that I did not want to mess with all of the wireing involved so I kept the switch and just moved it to the side. The key always stays in it. The real off switch is the master Kill anyways.
I installed a push button start in my car. I bought a panel with 5 switches. It is simple to hook up. There are 5 wires on the ignition switch. One is power which hooks directly to the unit. You have a ground. A wire that goes to the starter which connects to the push button. And I used 2 of the switches for ignition which kicks the fuel pump on and another switch for acc. So that when wipers and such are not needed it is off. The other switches I am going to use for the transponder and I have one of those coolers with the pump to pump cool water through the shirt thing. It is very simple to do I made a bracket to mount it where the radio used to be.
 

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LogicalRetard said:
Do you have a 2-pole or 4-pole kill swtich?

You need to use a 4 pole kill switch. It kills the Alternator and the battery.
 
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