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Discussion Starter #1
Last time I did this with him he had his dad's 97 Grand Prix SE with the 3800 Series II an me in my 93 Olds Eighty Eight with the Series I 3800. He would gain about 3 carlengths off the line and we would stay even.

Now I have my stock, yet tuned 98 Sentra SE and he has his 99 Civic LX (5-speed). From the start all the way to about 80 I slowly pull away from him, and very slowly like he isn't able to get back in my lane until after the 1-2 shift. His Car is rated for 106hp and 103 ft-lbs have really really close hp and tq peaks to my SR20 (within 200RPM) and the same 7100RPM rev limiter. His car weighs 2410 and mine 2617 (so says online info) so my Sentra is 200 lbs piggier than his Civic (dunno how that is, his car looks bigger if anything). Power mods for me are 17 degrees and open airbox with K&N air filter. Does this sound about right? I thought there would be a much bigger difference. It was fun letting launch a second before me and then have me launch and slowly pass by him midway through 2nd, but not nearly the amount of power over him I thought I would. (He is bone stock btw, and the first time he's ever driven his car like that)

Still my car is not transferring enough vibes through the steering wheel and chassis. It's like I've got this noisy ass machine several feet away under my hood but it's like I'm totally disconnected from it. Think it's time for motor mounts. :)

I know a full bolt on car (cams, ECU, header, CAI, exhaust) is something like 165 wheel hp which is something like 190hp crank, correct? Where does the stage I Hotshot or FMAX turbo kit put you? Close to 200 wheel hp, correct? How much more for stage II (which I believe adds fatter injectors and a Cobra MAF). How much is stage I as opposed to stage II? What are later upgrades to your turbo system?

I really want some more power. The car is "fast enough," but, I mean, I don't want it to be "fast enough." I want it to be "real fast." You guys understand :)
 

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the stage 2 f-max kit runs about 5500 bux, but if tuned right it will give you about 300 at the wheels, good enough for me in a 2500 lb car :)
 

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dude, with all the bolt-ons, the car feels great. I have regular POP, cams, ecu, header, no cat, GReddy, JWT PP, new oem clutch, JWT engine mounts, magnecor wires, and new NGKs. My car will smoke Mustang GTs all day long. So I'm like you: "What's next?" Personally, I'm going to get another cylinder head and send it to Dave Paramore Racing and replace my stock head with it. Getting the engine balanced and blueprinted would be great too.

So we're talkin':
5-angle valve job
11:1 compression pistons
370cc injectors
port and polish exhaust and intake ports (and have them matched)
etc.
etc.

the possibilities are endless... IMHO, I think keeping the motor w/out forced induction is better at prolonging it's life.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
But how much are you spending? I'm all for NA, but I'm even more for bang for the buck. I'm not worried about forced induction reliability. I don't expect there to be problems. Plus you can move up and up in power with a turbo where you can't with NA. I'd just like to go turbo if at all possible.
 

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ya, 200 at the wheels is fast, almost too fast (jk) but you know what they say, too much hp is never a bad thing (unless you are some 16 year old kid w/ a new ws6 t/a :)
 

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yeah, I understand the bang for the buck deal. I would just feel better knowing the engine was in the best possible shape it could be in. "Engineering Perfection" and "Gyroscopic Perfomance" is what I'm all about. I want my engine to run like a Rolex.
 
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