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Turd Furgeson
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my front, and rears from different places, the rears are PBR, the fronts are Axxis. They look like the same product repackaged, cause the boxes are very similar. What I was wondering about was any of your (anybody's) experiences with the pads, and any install tips.
I also got ES motor mounts. They came in two packages, with a total of 7 pieces, of varying shape and size. They package is like the ones action figures come in. Anyway, the back of the box says 91-94 models NX, classic etc.... Are the mounts the same as for my 96, or do I have to return them? TIA
 

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I run the metal masters on the front and stock pads on the rear. I'm also using the bigger nx brakes. I like them alot, they are quiet, seem to last quite awhile, not to hard on the rotors, and work great for track days. I might step up to a more aggressive pad later when these wear out. The only negative to these pads is that they dust alot, and they're probably not a "stout" enough pad if you're running turbo, big nitrous, or built to the hilt na motor.

later
 

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Turd Furgeson
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3,935 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks guys the pads went on fine. I reused all the parts the FSM says not to.
I'll bleed em' later when my sister \gets home. Are these mounts something I can do myself? I am not familiar with the procedure.
 

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Turd Furgeson
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3,935 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When I went to bed them the rear pads were dragging on the inside. I pushed the piston in more, but now the piston is not "picking" the pads up when I close the caliper. On top of this the pads still drag on the rotor. When i tried to bed them the fronts got real hot, but they are ok now I think. The rears probably arent doin anything. Whats happening?
 

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merely a flesh wound
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15,274 Posts
Originally posted by Bennitto Mallito:
Are these mounts something I can do myself? I am not familiar with the procedure.
Here's a message I posted to the SE-R mailing list last October. By the way, where do you live, I'm in Lake Grove.

>I didn't do the firewall. I just did the dogbone and only one
>of the mounts in the dogbone. We also used a bench vice clamp.
>We used a ton of grease and WD40, but in the end, it was easier
>to just grind the lip down.

That's funny, the big piece on the dogbone wasn't that hard, and I used a
pretty small bench vise. Did you remove the steel sleeve before trying to
insert it?

As for the firewall mount - I thought there was no way in hell that it would
fit back up into the body! For those of you who haven't seen them yet, ES
sells you inserts that slot into the spaces of the original mounts. On one
side they're a complete flat circle, the other side has protrusions that fit
into the stock mount. The inserts add about 1/2" to each side of the mount
and they're pretty damn stiff. To get the mount back up into the body, you
will need another set of hands, at least I did. What worked for me was to
cock it in slightly to one side to get it started, and as per John Heer's
page, use the scissor jack to snug it up. Then with my neighbor manning the
jack, I got the free side of the mount started in with a flat bladed
screwdriver. Once it was started, the jack slipped it right in. Lining up
the bolt hole was a real bitch also. I tried every variation of bolting up
the front of the crossmember, then just the back, then both, raising and
lowering the engine, but it wouldn't even come close. We wound up with me
lying with my feet out by the passenger door eyeing the bolt hole, my
neighbor with his feet out the front of the car maneuvering the
crossmember - 20 seconds later it was in.

By the way, last December, Jay Stewart wrote:
-The dogbone mount causes mostly deceleration problems, and clunking when
-shifting. Definitely urethane this one, or use an aftermarket mount. This
-mount is adjustable in its stock configuration, and I'll bet 90% of
SR20DE's
-don't have this adjusted right. DON'T make this one too stiff, bad things
-happen!

So what's the correct way to adjust the dogbone?

These motor mounts are one of the best things I've done for my SE-R. No more
groaning, no more wheel hop, no more banging over bumps, the whole car feels
much tighter. Live with the increased vibration, it's worth it. And I ran
across a few messages in the archives stating that with time the vibrations
lessen.

Chris Scarpulla
92 SE-R
 

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Turd Furgeson
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3,935 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey thanks for the info. I'm in pt wash. I think I know where lake grove is.
 

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Turd Furgeson
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3,935 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Guys i'm stumped here. I cant get the steel sleeve out of the bracket for the passenger side mount! I took it over to a machine shop this morning, and the guy said he couldn't press the sleeve out. He recommended torching it. (not gonna happen) All the other mounts are in, except this one, and ive mangled it to the point where its not gonna go back in. Does anyone remember how they got this stubborn sleeve out?
 

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350 Posts
Hey Bennitto, it's not as hard as it seems. Last year I had the firewall and dogbone already in. I had the tranny & passenger inserts but put it off, since I heard the passenger side insert was PITA. Anyways, the tranny mount wasn't hard and neither was the passenger. You just need a hacksaw. First, you'll need the steel sleeve so don't even damage or hack that up. Second, drill or pierce a hole thru the rubber part of the insert to get the hacksaw blade through it. Once you pierce or saw thru the rubber, goo will ooze out like oil. I believe this helps make the sleeve come out easier. Kinda like letting air out of a balloon. Saw thru the rubber going outwards toward the mount casing-NOT towards the steel sleeve. Saw until you cut the outside metal ring-part of the insert. DON'T saw thru the motor mount casing itself. The ring should only be 1/8" IIRC. I think sawing the ring also helps the insert come out. After your done hacksawing, get a long socket and a hammer and strike it out. It should only take 2 or 3 good wacks and the insert pops right out. Believe it or not, it works! I found this infromation in the archives. Once you press the ES tranny insert in, re-use your stock steel sleeve. I hacked around the sleeve to get it out of the stock insert. IIRC, I didn't use the supplied sleeve because it was either too short or it didn't tighten properly when installed. The stock sleeve should work fine. If you have anymore questions, just email me...

I've had my share of installing bushings


------------------
Fred
99 Sentra SE
http://www.geocities.com/fred99sr20

[This message has been edited by fred99sr20 (edited 05-26-2001).]
 

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Turd Furgeson
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3,935 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Fred. I got them mounts taken care of now. The sound when I fired the car uyp was worth all the trouble. My car now sounds rude, and obnoxious like god intended. With the suspension, and the mounts it now feels really tight.
I trimmed the left firewall insert with a dremmel, cause it was messing with the shifter.
Cleaned the TB too, so the idle is a little smoother.
 
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