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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just got new seals,etc put in my stock t25 turbo (sr20det) and i unplugged the CAS and tried to crank my car a few times (i was told to do this to get oil back into the turbo)

i finally got it cranked after i plugged it in but my turbo seems to be smoking a little. i was wondering if anyone had any ideas. i dont want to have to take that damn thing back off.

thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
hm...thought it might be some resedue on the turbo or something, but the smoke still comes back. i think the bolt on the top of the turbo isnt tightened all the way. that thing is a @#$% to tighten. i think i can grind down a wrench so i can turn it. (can get the wrench on the bolt, but cant move to tighten, only loosen)

i had to get new washers for the stock banjo bolts. they are a little thicker and stick out on the sides. would that really matter?

bah. i cant afford a new turbo right now
 

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What color is the smoke and what does it smell like? I just had my T25 rebuilt and got all kinds of smoke. First it was just steam because I had one of the coolant line fittings too loose. That was easy to tell because it had that sweet antifreeze smell. Once that was tight, I noticed just a little oil burning. Turned out the crush washer on the oil supply side was a little too big in diameter and was not perfectly centered on the fitting so it leaked. I also noticed a very faint white smoke coming off the turbo. Hard to tell where it was leaking from. Turned out it was the light oil i used when assembling the stainless steel turbo lines. It was getting hot and seeping out of the line and onto the turbo. That went away on it's own. Ha, not finished yet...Finally, there was a slightly fainter white smoke that only occurred when the turbo was all warmed up. According to the guys at cheapturbo.com, this is a combo of the very light coat of oil they put on the outside of the turbo to prevent rust during shipping and oil from my hands from handling the turbo during install. They said it would go away, and it did. Bottom line is, use your eyes and your nose to figure out what's burning, that will lead you to where it's coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks so much for your reply :) not having much luck.

it smells like coolant, but then again i could be wrong. (using the orange stuff instead of the flouresent green stuff :) )

the washer you were talking about, was this one to the banjo bolts for the oil/water hardlines? i lost 2 of the smaller washers so i just put on some washers that fit the bolt perfectly (2x the height of the original washers and they are much bigger. does this matteR?
 

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DETRoadster is right, the nose and the eyes couldnt be a better tool, I gaurntee my friend with the EVO 8 is blind, his 16G was doing the same thing when he got it put back in (after he wrecked it :( ) but there was all kinds of **** smokin out that thing, every week it was somthing different, its fine now and he's back up to about 22psi. Hope you get this figured out. Good luck
 

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epoxy said:
thanks so much for your reply :) not having much luck.

it smells like coolant, but then again i could be wrong. (using the orange stuff instead of the flouresent green stuff :) )

the washer you were talking about, was this one to the banjo bolts for the oil/water hardlines? i lost 2 of the smaller washers so i just put on some washers that fit the bolt perfectly (2x the height of the original washers and they are much bigger. does this matteR?
1. get that dexcool out of your car asap. that stuff is junk. Flush out your system and return to regular green coolant asap. Even gm guys switch that **** out of there cars. It is known to clog up radiators and after a while it will begine to look like mud.
2. As long as you are use "crush" washers you should be ok. To me it sounds like you are just using regular washers though. Regular washers will NOT seal up completely like the crush washers. Go to your local autoparts store and ask them for crush washers. You need one on each side of the line. The washer will be a copper color.
 

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That was my thought too, sr20ser1997. When I read that post, it sounds like he's using regular steel washers. Crush washers are either copper and the color of a penny, or they are aluminum. The key thing is that they are not steel. The copper and aluminum are much softer and allow the washer to crush down and conform to the surface of the banjo fitting and the turbo. Note, these are one time use washers. After they are crushed down and seal to the surface, that's it. If you ever remove the banjo fitting for whatever reason, you should use new washers when you re-install it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
DETRoadster said:
That was my thought too, sr20ser1997. When I read that post, it sounds like he's using regular steel washers. Crush washers are either copper and the color of a penny, or they are aluminum. The key thing is that they are not steel. The copper and aluminum are much softer and allow the washer to crush down and conform to the surface of the banjo fitting and the turbo. Note, these are one time use washers. After they are crushed down and seal to the surface, that's it. If you ever remove the banjo fitting for whatever reason, you should use new washers when you re-install it.

ah..perfect post :) i did use regular washers... they were copper though. lol

i'll replace them in a few days and see if the smoke goes away. i have to get that orange stuff out too i guess. thought it would be better.

thanks for all the help
 
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