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Discussion Starter #1
sorry for beating this to death, but how would i go about advancing it? do i just move the needle-mark? or is there some kind of bolt that i need to twist?

(i dont have timing light, gotta wait for the sunshine to see the marks)
 

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Below is what I emailed to a guy:

It is pretty simple. First you need a timing light.
About $35 from most stores. Don't worry, you'll use
it plenty of times.
1. Warm up car to normal temp. Turn car off.
2. Unplug TPS Sensor (top connection on throttle
body).
3. Hook up timing light to #1 spark plug wire and
battery.
4. Start car. Rev past 3k three times. This puts
the car in 'timing mode'.
5. Point timing light at crankshaft pulley. Read
marks. The mark on the right will be 20 degrees, the
white strip to the left of that will be 13-15 degrees,
the mark to the left of that will be 10 degrees. You
want to set it around 17 degrees if you want to run 87
octane. If you want to pay for premium you can get
more power around 19 degrees with the stock cams. To
change the timing:
Loosen the two bolts that hold the distributor to the
valve cover. Rotate the distributor slightly and then
recheck the timing. If the timing moved the wrong way
rotate the distributor in the oppositie direction.
After you get the timing you want, tighten the
distributor and then re-check the timing.
6. Turn car off. Plug in TPS. Remove timing light. Go drive.

Enjoy,
Jason
 

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You don't move the needle. You move the distributor. You read the timing using the light and the needle and the marks on the pulley. You need the light to see the marks, it uses the strobe effect to 'freeze' a moving object.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Loosen the two bolts that hold the distributor to the
valve cover. Rotate the distributor slightly and then
recheck the timing. If the timing moved the wrong way
rotate the distributor in the oppositie direction.
After you get the timing you want, tighten the
distributor and then re-check the timing.
</font>
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Limited Slip:
sorry for beating this to death, but how would i go about advancing it? do i just move the needle-mark? or is there some kind of bolt that i need to twist?

(i dont have timing light, gotta wait for the sunshine to see the marks)
</font>

Just did mine last night - try this site: http://www.se-r.net/engine/about_timing.html

These procedure worked great - but you do need a timing light. Also from WWW.SE-R.net, make sure your idle is good or your timing won't be accurate.
 

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I allways run premium. What will this do for me?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Trys_Hard:
I allways run premium. What will this do for me?</font>
most people say that unless the maker recommends 89 and up.. thers really no point to using it...
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Trys_Hard:
I allways run premium. What will this do for me?</font>
With 15 degrees or less timing run lower grade (cheaper) fuel - no advantage to hi-test. With advanced timing (better throttle response, bit higher Horse power - high test is necessary do you don't ping (detonate). Personally, I run 15 degrees and the cheaper fuel. Go to www.se-r.net and poke around and research timing issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
this is perplexing. i can't see those marks at all. i just need to see what's it's currently set up. last month for one glorious day they appeared bright as day.. i dont know if it was the sunlight or what, but i saw the white marks clearly. ever since it seems like they disappeared???
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Limited Slip:
this is perplexing. i can't see those marks at all. i just need to see what's it's currently set up. last month for one glorious day they appeared bright as day.. i dont know if it was the sunlight or what, but i saw the white marks clearly. ever since it seems like they disappeared???</font>
Uhhhh....you cant see the marks clearly unless you have a timing light...I don't know what you are looking at.


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Ryan Walsh, 1997 200sx SE-R w/ ES mounts, JWT s4's, AEBS 4-1, PR CAI, Sportlines/AGX's, Bridgestone re730's, Matrix FSTB, Stillen GTR grill
 

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Discussion Starter #11
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RPWSER:
Uhhhh....you cant see the marks clearly unless you have a timing light...I don't know what you are looking at.


</font>
i swear it was clear as day. 7 white marks, about 3cm apart, with 2 in the middle being close to each other.

saw it sunday. never saw it agian
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">i swear it was clear as day. 7 white marks, about 3cm apart, with 2 in the middle being close to each other.

saw it sunday. never saw it agian</font>
Was the car running? occasionaly you will stop the car with the marks visible, but that doesn't tell you whaat your timing is.
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jacen99SE:
Was the car running? occasionaly you will stop the car with the marks visible, but that doesn't tell you whaat your timing is.</font>
Yeah, i was thinkion the same thing, there is now way you could tell where the marks are with the car running



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Ryan Walsh, 1997 200sx SE-R w/ ES mounts, JWT s4's, AEBS 4-1, PR CAI, Sportlines/AGX's, Bridgestone re730's, Matrix FSTB, Stillen GTR grill
 
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The moment that the spark-plug sparks and thus igniting fuel is commonly refered to as timing. Timing of that particular cylinder is measured in degrees. The measurement is an angle taken from a vertical centerline through the main journal to the centerline of the big end of the conn-rod. So say 15 BTDC means 15 degrees Before Top Dead Center (15 degrees before the pistons rises to the top of its travel) or 13 ATDC means 13 degrees After Top Dead Center (13 degrees after the piston drops from top of its travel)

Timing marks are located on the circumference of the crank pulley. As they pass under the "finger", the finger casts a shadow on the pulley itself when a timing light's beam is directed towards it, thus indicating where the timing is set at.

Timing light itself is a strobe light that draws its power from the car's battery (or built in). When you hook up the timing light to a certain cylinder's plug wire, the light senses the electro-magnetic interference that the wire emits due to its high-voltage spark. When the light senses the E-M signal, it lights up.

So when you hook it up to cylinder #1 in this case, with the engine running, whenever the plug fires (drawing current from the distributer), the light flashes. By directing the beam towards the little timing tab, you can see the timing marks in a luminiscent glow thus able to tell you where your timing is set at. And to change it, you have to change the time that the distributer brush strikes the cap. Thus by rotating the cap a little bit, you change the time that the distributer completing the circut to the plug, therefore changing the time that the spark plug fires in relation to crank position.

You can actually physically see those timing marks, they are stamped (painted) on the crank pulley, just ask your friend to bump the starter a couple of times letting the crank pulley rotate a bit, eventually you'll see'em.

Hope this helps...
 
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