As you may know, I have been having ignition problems with my car for a few weeks. I have a 1992 Sentra SE-R w/ a Blue Bird SR20DET. I have swapped plugs, wires and coils with no luck. I was running the NGK Platinum PFR6B-11's in the car @ .020" gap with a set of NGK wires and an MSD 6A w/ Stock Nissan Coil. The car ran a 13.6 @ 111 on street tires with this setup. The car was sputtering still so I pulled the plugs and started running NGK Platinum BKR7EVX-11 Plugs @ .020" gap and I also swapped out the stock Nissan Coil for an MSD Blaster SS coil. This setup would not allow me to boost past 1.1 bar. I ran the car and was only able to net a 13.1 @ 103 on slicks(1.1 bar). I then changed the coil back to the stock Nissan one and it seemed fine. The following week, I ran the car and was able to pull off a 12.7 @ 112 on slicks, but I still could not boost past 1.1 bar and the car sputtered all the way down the track. Now I have swapped out the NGK wires for Stock Nissan Wires and I have swapped out the NGK Platinum BKR7EVX-11's for NGK Copper BKR7E-11's @ .020" gap. I have been able to run 1.2 bar on the street without any sputtering. I will try this setup at the track this upcoming Friday. I am also going to dyno the car on Sunday and do a comparison of different plugs, wires, and coil combonations. After looking in the NGK North America Catalog, I have discovered an OEM part number(PFR6B-9) for the 1995 Nissan 200SX Turbo SR20DET. These plugs are Platinum plugs that are gapped @ .036" from the factory. The OEM NGK part number for the 1995-1998 200SX is PFR5B-11 and is gapped @ .044". The OEM plug for the 1991-1994 Sentra SE-R is part number BKR5E gapped @ .032". There is also a replacement Platinum plug (BKR5EVX) and is gapped @ .032". I am not sure why there is such a variation in gap sizes between the different years of SR20DE's. Would it be beneficial to try and find a plug for the SR20DET, only in a colder heat range? Should I try to locate an NGK Platinum PFR7B-9, that is designated for the 1995 200SX Turbo SR20DET? Or, should I try and get a BKR7E(not BRK7E-11)Copper plug? I am not too sure if I should stay with a Platinum plug? Mike Smith (JWT) wanted me to run a Platinum Plug due to excessive cylinder pressure. The only obvious problem I see with platinum plugs are the thin electrodes, where as, the Copper plugs may need to be changed more often, but have a much larger electrode. If any of you have any ideas or suggestion, feel free to let me know.
The cap and rotor are both fine. I checked them out and there was nothing out of the ordinary. I will go ahead and replace them to see if it might help. The distributor seems fine. I don't have any ignition problems other than when I am trying to run more than 1.1-1.2 bar.
I run the non platinum plugs in my NOS car b/c I did not want to burn the platinum off of the plugs and onto the piston
I would try the copper heat range 7 plug, and maybe gap em a little tighter. nissan part # is a 22401-20j07 for the non plats. run you less than $2 a plug too.
98 se-r w/ p/r cai,jwt s3 cams, stillen header, courtesy exhaust, ur pullies, JUN flywheel, ACT clutch, NOS nitrous kit, eibach springs, kyb struts, st sways, cusco camber plates, f/r strut braces,stillen lower control arm brace, lotsa bushings, and a bunch of other crap
Actually Brian, I am running the 7 heat range Copper plugs as we speak. If I close the gap down more than .020" , there will be no more gap. You wouldn't want to run coppers over platinum for heat issues. Copper plugs will melt or get damaged easier in higher cylinder temps/pressure. Platinum is a much stronger metal than copper. If you are burning Platinum electrodes, some major detonation is occuring.
It seems that the ignition problem has been fixed on my car. Ben B and I cranked up the timing a couple of degrees and the car no longer sputters with high boost levels and the car feels much more responsive. We are going to crank up the timing up to 18-19 degrees and see how it does on the dyno next week.