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Discussion Starter #21
Oh really 馃榾 !!
Sounds great !!
Do you think this transmission would be a better match for the sr20ve than the 16 tranny even for 1/4 mile and hill climb on 205/50/15 tires ?
 

WHP11 CVT M6
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I cant say for certain specifically for that setup, I think 205/50/15 is equivalent to stock on the P11, think stock was 195/55/15 someone else can verify, but the point is u are in a chassis that is a few hundred pounds lighter, you have an engine with more WHP and torque(than the SR20DE of the P11), it is possible even bigger tyres would be fine and you can use this to sort of tweak your gearing. The SR16 box would have been a lot lower gear ratios to adjust for the lower torque of the 1.6 but take advantage of the power at high revs. The SR20 (P11) gearbox would certainly be optimized for a similar power/torque curve as the SR20VE on its low lobes and well once VVL engages, happy times. Perhaps if you switch the cams separately and at different rpms you can smooth out the torque curve and so reduce the wheels breaking traction, it should break less stuff, cut wear and tear and improve performance generally.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I'm sold Yoshoto!
I'm going for that transmission that will also give me back the LSD.

Now you spoke about switching the cams separately at different RPMs and that sounds awesome!
I need to do some research over this to know what's the proper way to do it.
I bought the car with a VVL controller already installed and I don't really know how it's hooked up.

Thanks for helping and sharing your knowledge!!
 

WHP11 CVT M6
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131 Posts
You will need a dual RPM Switch controller or two single controllers, or (highly recommended) a nismotronic and one of the compatible ECU's, a 54c ecu might be easiest for you to source in AU, else a B13 ecu out of the USA. The Nismotronic will allow you to tune your own car, it is pretty straightforward and they give great support.

The proper way to do it: first perform all bolt on mods to engine u may wish to do.

perform 3 dyno pulls: one with no vvl activation, one with intake only, one with both intake and exhaust

overlay the 3 graphs, the intersection of graph 1 and 2 is your intake switch point, the intersection of 2 and 3 is your exhaust switch point.

If you do tuning on the engine down the road u may have to revisit the switch points to optimize them. even with the above method u may still tweak the switch points up or down by a couple hundred rpm, (usually down) this is because lets say you want the cam to switch at 5000 rpm, the switch process, takes a fraction of a second, so the switching process may have to initiate at 4800 ~4900 to get the desired result seen at 5000.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'm So Happy to be able to learn from you guys !!
Unfortunately, we don't have a Dyno here yet, so I will have to do it the hard way.

Thanks a Million as Usual !!
 

WHP11 CVT M6
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I don't know why I thought u were in austrailia, think I got mixed up with sss4me. Hati is close enough to the US and have you considered Jamaica for Japanese used parts? You can use things like virtual dyno to get you close enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yes we're close to the US,
and actually my SR20ve engine was bought from Gspec.
I don't really have any connections in Jamaica for parts, but that should be useful.

I've never tried virtual Dyno so far but might be a good path to explore !!

I'm actually using an SR16Ve ECU with N1 cams on stock springs and retainers, but have been told that i'm not having the good Ignition Timing with that ECU. So I'm seeking the best options ECU wise for racing applications !!
Any Suggestions ?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Will check Nismotronic for the ECU !!

Man it's actually funny to see how the Caribbean islands aren't really connected internet wise. From Haiti, all my Google searches always take me to the US Market !! It's only feasible if I have a specific website that i know !!
 
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