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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yo so my sr20de keeps stalling on me after while of driving it, maybe 20-30 minutes of driving. It’s not stalling all the time but you can feel the power giving out and it jerks sometimes but I’ve been trying to diagnose this for a minute and can’t find any solution. I thought it was stalling because lack of compression but each cylinder is putting out around 154psi, I did change the plugs and that’s kind of where my problems started, I got the wrong plugs twice in a row before landing on a set of bkr6e-11 which the car came with bkr6e, I have a new alternator as well, when it finally stalls, and doesn’t ignite but you can here everything else turning the pistons just no combustion, I can get it to bump start too and I could do a new air filter but do you guys think the plugs will fail at a certain temp? Do I need to start looking at my fuel injectors?
 

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SR20DE stock G20 p10 highport
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You need to check for engine trouble codes stored in the computer, so you have some sort of idea as to what might be causing your problem.
What model and year Nissan do you have? I ask because I have a '91 - '93 p10 G20, which has the cam position sensor INSIDE the distributor. Oil can make its way into the distributor and "blind" the electronic eye, causing the ECM to shut off the running engine. I have read that the oil is able to make it way into the distributor more so when the engine is hot. The engine may run when the oil has not made its way up to enter the distributor, when the engine is still cold. It will sound like it wants to turn over when you go to crank it, but it will never turn over and start. I believe there is a Cam Position Sensor trouble code that will appear when performing the Self-Diagnosis via turning the little screw on the ECM to the right, hold it for 4 seconds and rock it back to the left, with the key in the ON position.
If you have a OBD-II engine, go to an auto parts store like advance, and they will read the engine codes using a scan tool.
If your injectors are bad they will perform badly all the time, idle rough and hesitate upon accelerating. (If you ever want to check their resistance, remove the connecting plug and use a digital multi-meter to probe the prongs, one lead on one prong and the other lead on the other prong. Resistance should be 10 - 14 Ohms.
Assuming you have the right spark plugs in there and they are new, they should be fine. I have read that the BKR6E plugs that do not have any number or anything after the BKR6E need to be gapped; whereas, the ones like you have in there right now do not require any gapping. In either case, using plugs with the wrong gap won't cause the engine to run fine then suddenly stall after 20-30 min. The engine will just run crappy, all the time.
 

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Yo so my sr20de keeps stalling on me after while of driving it, maybe 20-30 minutes of driving. It’s not stalling all the time but you can feel the power giving out and it jerks sometimes but I’ve been trying to diagnose this for a minute and can’t find any solution. I thought it was stalling because lack of compression but each cylinder is putting out around 154psi, I did change the plugs and that’s kind of where my problems started, I got the wrong plugs twice in a row before landing on a set of bkr6e-11 which the car came with bkr6e, I have a new alternator as well, when it finally stalls, and doesn’t ignite but you can here everything else turning the pistons just no combustion, I can get it to bump start too and I could do a new air filter but do you guys think the plugs will fail at a certain temp? Do I need to start looking at my fuel injectors?
I had this problem when I put the car in reverse and went up a hill, turned out the timing was off by a tooth.
 

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When you find the solution or the accurate diagnosis, post what you find here. Get the codes read and post the results of that, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
UPDATE!!! It was a bad fuel pump, I got the right plugs in finally but was still stalling so I replaced the fuel pump n now she runs better, no stalling no sputtering at high accelerations!!
 

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Hey, Good deal. Thank you for letting everyone know what solved your problem!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sike I’m back, after installing the fuel pump I didn’t have any stalling issues for awhile but now it’s back to doing the same thing not as much but I’m kinda stumped right now, I don’t know how to test the fuel to see if it’s bad but I’m gunna do some more research into other parts, I’m looking at my distributor now cause I haven’t changed it since I bought it 4 years ago and it has a very tiny 1/8” crack, the royal looks spent so I got a new one, I just need the cap which they don’t make anymore, does anyone know of a place that still sells them? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Check rock auto.
Thanks I went to the Nissan dealership to get the cap and it was on back order for like 2 months and it finally got delivered today but I’m not going to replace it yet until I get a new o ring seal cause the old one is stretched out. But ALSO after doing a lot more research, it could be my o2 sensor. All the symptoms point torwards that, I’ve got new plugs new fuel pump, tps and map is ok, I’m going to replace the small things first before I do something like take off the aac and aic valve, people keep saying clean them but I’d rather just replace them but ima wait because if I need to remove the aac valve which is ****in glued on I’ll want to have a replacement on standby in case I break it during removal. I’ll come back after I replace the o2 sensor.
 

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I had an issue simliar w/ my P10 --- the ign coil wire was arcing out against the MAF sensor bolts. Simply rotating that wire around the bottom solved it.
 
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