SR20 Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Beware....THE BEAR!!
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
well, I can put a turbo on, just did a 5 spd swap, but when it comes down to diagnosing problems, i suck, lol.

So...my car after the 5spd swap was running pretty good, but sure what happened. Lately the idle has been pretty shitty, it was very lopey, up and down jumping between 500-1000k , but would usually steady out. Today is was really hesitating. I was driving it and it died, would not stay running to save my life. I had to push it off the road. I tried starting it many times. Sometimes i could rev it up to 4k or so, and i would try to keep it running by giving it gas, but it just drops until it died, no matter how much gas i gave it.

I checked for a vacuum leak, all couplers and hoses seem good. I figured it was my cruise control module because i unhooked it, since it's no longer of use, but i put it back, and still nothing.

I pulled my plugs and they were black and smelled real strong of gas. That's basically all i can say about it. Someone please help with a diagnoses. I've had some suggestions of my plugs (bkr7e's) , coil/dizzy (which is stock).

I'll leave you all with a short vid of what the car is doing now, which is next to nothing.

http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w160/budsang1/?action=view&current=CIMG7141.flv
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,715 Posts
what you running for a ecu
 

·
Beware....THE BEAR!!
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
runs a jwt tuned for 370's and z32 maf...also runs a walbro 255. Car has ran perfect up until now. It's a 98 SE with 122k on it
 

·
Beware....THE BEAR!!
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
early morning bump....

I'm thinking about replacing cap, wires...since they are still stock and it has 122k on it. Let me know if you guys have anymore ideas...gotta get this running so I can break in the clutch for the convention
 

·
Auto to manual in progres
Joined
·
527 Posts
chang your plugs.. Then do your dizzy sounds like what my boys gsr was doing..Yea it deff sounds like dizzy..we could start his car but itwould just die out excact probs like you. we put plugs in but it still ran like **** but it ran than a new dizzy and no probs afterthat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
362 Posts
Yeah my car has cams but it is way too loppy for them and wants to try and dis on me...they are only jwt s3's it seems like its igniton thing. I just changed my wires recenty could thy also be bad. Onlt thng i can think of is the coil or transiro
 

·
Beware....THE BEAR!!
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
well...i ordered new plugs, wires, and a dizzy, so we'll see what happens
 

·
Beware....THE BEAR!!
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
put a new cap on it today, no difference really, still doing the same thing.

Here is a better video of what it does, runs longer, but still same result.

http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w160/budsang1/?action=view&current=CIMG7144.flv

yeah a bit of starter squeel, and it's starting hard because i accidentally drained the batter the other night, it's starting off a jump box. As the rpm's fall, i'm trying to give it some gas to keep it going, but no luck

So....i'm starting so lean towards it being a maf problem...whatcha think?
 

·
Beware....THE BEAR!!
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
ok, so with the maf unplugged the car idles pretty decent. vac is at about 17. But when i plug the maf back in I get what you see in the vid above
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
170 Posts
check your hoses or vac lines around the intake to the throttle i had kind of the same response dues to a loose hose.
 

·
Beware....THE BEAR!!
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
so...new plug wires, new cap, regrounded maf, and it runs/idles much better. On initial startup it idles like normal, 18vac or so, after a little while the vac starts to drop until it gets down to around 10, starts loping until it stalls. I really think it must be a leak...it's odd that it idles good at first..but what else could cause my vac to slowly drop?
 

·
agent camel toe
Joined
·
9,396 Posts
check the v on the maf..unplug the o2/ect
 

·
GA 2 SR
Joined
·
127 Posts
put a new cap on it today, no difference really, still doing the same thing.

Here is a better video of what it does, runs longer, but still same result.

http://s175.photobucket.com/albums/w160/budsang1/?action=view&current=CIMG7144.flv

yeah a bit of starter squeel, and it's starting hard because i accidentally drained the batter the other night, it's starting off a jump box. As the rpm's fall, i'm trying to give it some gas to keep it going, but no luck

So....i'm starting so lean towards it being a maf problem...whatcha think?
Dude, I have the same issues with my 98 GA to SR20 JDM swap, I've tried every thing you've done with no luck, I think you have gotten a tad bit further than me however I got mines to run for about 5-7 mins and I saw smoke....cut the car off and looked under the car from where it was coming from and right after the Catalytic converter it was glowing hot! I am at a lost. Mechanically, I'm good but the diagnosing.....I suck. I hope you find the problem before me if so....PLEASE shoot me an e-mail or PM.
 

·
SR20DEviant
Joined
·
2,131 Posts
I know that when I put my S4's in, the vacuum leak was horrible. I raised my idle to about 1k and adjusted the TPS a lil advanced and it runs smoothe as glass right now. Advance the timing, to 17, and raise the idle to about 1k and see how it runs from there... just my 2 cents
 

·
bitemyshinymetalass
Joined
·
1,240 Posts
so...new plug wires, new cap, regrounded maf, and it runs/idles much better. On initial startup it idles like normal, 18vac or so, after a little while the vac starts to drop until it gets down to around 10, starts loping until it stalls. I really think it must be a leak...it's odd that it idles good at first..but what else could cause my vac to slowly drop?
Not as familiar with the '98 as '91-93's, but consider the vac loop when cold vs. hot. I am guessing on the newer rig the EGR is working at startup until temp reached, then stops via a solenoid or similar.

What will make it drop from 18 to 10 is whether a hose with a leak in it or badly fit is "in the loop" when it's 18 (not) due to changes in the pathway open/closed. Isolate the vacuum hoses that are always in play (e.g. one pulling from the intake area). With EGR and/or other valve open you can have a higher reading because the path is tight (or conversely the lines are dirty, another subject).

Concerned you're smelling strong gas when you pull the plugs. Normally this is injectors drowning the plugs, most noticeable at lower rpms (at higher rpms the rich condition ins't good, but mostly wastes gas and soots up the tailpipe).

Fuel Pressure Regulation (FPR) could be off; the injectors could be sending way too much fuel into the chamber. Conversely those going down the MAF path where the ECU picks up the "need" for allowing the mixture have less air, more gas. This is what I would do - in addition to what you've already done, also check the gap on you new plugs. Then in order -

1) Vac hose is cheap - replace all the 1/4 you can find with good clean hose.
2) Where you have metal lines, and can get at open ends, blast them out with an air hose nipple - sometimes they also get very dirty to the point the car won't run when warmed up. If you use any solvents, be VERY careful to keep away from the diaphragms of PCV, etc. - they don't like that (don't ask)
3) Check the MAF grounding issues discussed elsewhere; check the injector connections ,clean if needed
4) Check the FPR - with the W255, you can move a lot of fuel and if FPR is off, rich condition with hyperactive injectors will cause the near-flooding of the chamber that will burn at revs but not at idle.

I don't suggsest -
1) Artificially raising the idle to smooth it out - just masks a problem that can fail you in emissions (BTW do you have and codes?)
2) Continuing futher to replace ignition components - good idea up to this point but you need to focus on the air and emissions control area.
3) Don't replace costly items like EGR w/o testing extensively

At this point also track mpg religiously with each change; right now I am guessing you are running consistently lower mpg by 4-6 mpg than you normally would.

HTH - I have similar issues with my '91 B13, what a b*tch to fix. I know VQ's and KA's, am relatively new to the SR20's. One thing I can say, they are darn fussy about their emission and vac controls working just so. The KA is a no-brainer, the VQ much better documented.

 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top