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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellow SE-R owners. I am the lucky owner of a 91 SE-R. Talk about a good deal, 50 bucks, and all I need is the starter(yes it still has an engine, but being stationed overseas is a plus because the owner could only ship one car back to the states). How in the world can I get to it. The car is parked in my parking lot, so I can't put it on a lift. I have a really good jack, but when I went underneath, it was to high to get at. It is a manual with a/c. If anyone has pics please send them to me.

Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also, what is the firing order of the spark plugs, I took off the wires w/o marking them. The car has 120k, and they are the original wires. They broke into pieces, it was a pain to pull them out.

858 Posts
FO is 1432 numbers shold be on coil. from left to right the cyl are 1234.50 bucks is awesome. the starter has some bolts that you can get to from the top of tranny from the engine bay. good luck

91 SE-R,10:1 comp.pistons,balanced &blueprint rebuild.comp.4angle valve job,extrude honed heads/intake manifold,No emissions.crap,RC TB/MAF,nismo cams,UR pulleys,stillen4-1 ceram.header, ACT HDS/S clutch,PR CAI with POPchgr,2 1/2 test pipe,mandrel 2 1/4 superturbo ex., ZEX flywheel & JW 50 shot nos with 60 shot jet. and much more goodies!

Discussion Starter · #5 ·
91 SE-R starter removal and replacement is a pain. You will need to have the car on ramps or jack stands, as you must work from the top and bottom. I usually remove the air intake tube between the air filter box and the throttle body. The you can just barely get at the bolts. (two with 14mm heads , if I remember correctly). An assortment of wrenches, sockets and extensions are involved. Remove the wires from beneath the car. Installiation is very dificult by your self.
If you are replacing the starter, look at past postings here about starter noise.
I hope someone can post a trick to make the job easier.

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Here goes something i found in the SE-R.NET Archives..the place everyone should look before posting

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
Archive key words: Starter, Install, Brace

Tools Needed:

14mm Socket
13mm Socket (Depends on replacement starter)
12mm Deep Socket
Ratchet Extension
Flathead Screw Driver
Work Light
Wrench to Disconnect Battery Terminal

Ok, you have to get into the mode. The first time you do this, its gonna be
frustrating! The spaces you are dealing with are very hard to work in. I
recommend, taking at least 1 if not 2 beer breaks.

Disconnect the Battery, Throw some Shiner Bock on ice then proceed to step

1. First you need to locate the starter. Jack up the front of the car, or
drive it up onto stands. Place a mat or something to rest you head on under
the car, cause your gonna be there for awhile. Orient you body so that you
are looking between the firewall and the engine block, with your legs
sticking out of the front of your beast mobile. You should see a fairly
large brace with two 14mm bolts going into the block at the bottom, and
bolts attaching it to the intake manifold above. These are 12mm bolts.
Behind this brace is out friend the Starter.

2. Begin by removing the two 14mm bolts attached to the engine block.

3. The 12mm bolt above are a pain in the ass! The space is cramped, and you
are gonna get some battle scars. I found the best way to attack them was
from under the car. Take your 12mm deep socket, and feel around until it
slips over the bolt. Then, snake your ratchet up there and stick it into the
socket. This should do the trick.

4. Pull the brace off of the threads, and let it sit, sandwiched between the
block and firewall. You should be able to see the starter now.

5. Disconnect the plug that attaches to the harness, and slide the connector
off of the brace its attached too.

6. Now there is the large wire that runs into the starter, which is held on
by a bolt. Now this is confusing, the starter that came off my car used a
single 14mm bolt. The replacement used a 12mm bolt, with a 13mm bolt behind
it. Use whatever works in your situation. Get the bolt off, and then slide
off the wire.

7. Climb out from under the car. Grab a beer.

8. Disconnect the intake tube that runs from the Throttle Body to the MAF.
This makes it easier, the second time I did my starter(don't ask) I didn't
have to remove it, but it definitely makes it easier the first time. Remove
from engine.

9. Now look down at the tranny. You should see a large 14mm bolt right below
the intake manifold. Up and to the left of this is another 14mm bolt, it
might be hard to see, cause the Valve Cover casts a shadow on it.

10. Remove the first bolt with a 14mm socket, and an extension if necessary.
Its a long bolt with lots of threads, so its gonna take awhile!

11. As for the other bolt, you can detach the clutch cable bracket to get at
it easier. But I don't recommend it, I messed up the tension in my clutch
and I ended up spending an hour after my starter install to get it right,
just leave it on. Put the ratchet on the bolt, and undo that long sucker.

12. Climb under the car, and slide the starter out from its hole. Giggle
like a mad scientist while clutching the greasy in front of you. Resist the
temptation to bash the crap out of the defective part. You have to get your
core charge remember?

13. I used two people here. It might be possible to do it with a single
person if you are creative. I will give instructions, assuming you have a
friend. Go under the car and slide the new starter in its hole. Have your
assistant thread the long 14mm bolt into first hole that is under the intake
manifold. It is easier to this bolt first, because you can see this bolt
threading into the starter, the other you can't. Once the bolt is through
the tranny, block, then starter, tighten that sucker down.

14. Thread in the other long bolt. While the assistant does this, you may
have to jiggle the starter a little to get the hole in the starter aligned
with the incoming bolt. Tighten down.

15. Reattach the intake piping.

16. Climb under car and slide the electrical wire over the connector, and
tighten the 14mm/13mm/12mm bolt onto it. You should do this step after the
starter has been bolted to the car, it is MUCH MUCH easier this way. Trust
me, I know.

17. Reattach electrical connector on the Starter, to the harness.

18. Slide the brace back on its threads that run into the intake manifold.

19. Thread the 12mm bolt on the threads in the manner described above.
Tighten using my patented method.

20. Put the larger 14mm bolts in that are located on the bottom and run
into the engine block.

21. Lower Vehicle off of jacks.

22. Reconnect battery Terminals.

23. Fire it up!

Congrats, your all done. Be patient, the spaces are confined, its takes time
to do some of the steps! If you have any questions, just e-mail me.

Lyn Labahn

96 200SX SE-R

CAI, 2.25 custom exhaust, Arospeed dual canister Muffler, GCs, AGX, 300ZX TT
fuel pump
Thank Lyn Labahn for this

-Dennis w/ 91 Classic DET, Tokiko, Eibach and some more SE-Rious Goodies
Or Vist the Biggest Collection os SE-R's on the WEB: if you want you pic added, email me :)

Of Topic Count: 11,684
1,168 Posts
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by se-r91red:
Also, what is the firing order of the spark plugs, I took off the wires w/o marking them. The car has 120k, and they are the original wires. They broke into pieces, it was a pain to pull them out. </font>
They should be number on the distrubtor 1,2,3,4 it starts with 1 being the one on the left side of the car.. hope this hepls

-Dennis w/ 91 Classic DET, Tokiko, Eibach and some more SE-Rious Goodies
Or Vist the Biggest Collection os SE-R's on the WEB: if you want you pic added, email me :)
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