[MaddMatt]

I asked this question on the autocross list, but I thought I'd give everyone else a shot.

Here's my problem. I have KYB AGXs, GC coilovers and Cusco camber plates with the stock bump stops trimmed the recommended amount by GC. The car is lowered ~3/4". I have ~1/2" of travel before I bottom out. I know this by using the highly sophisticated zip-tie method: Jack car up, place zip tie around shock piston, lower car, measure distance to bump stop. The rear is fine.

This is not enough travel. I need more. The least expensive options are:

1) Purchase GC camber plates. I will get 3/4"-1" of extra travel since they mount on top of the tower. Price: $350
2) Purcahse shortened, threaded body shocks from Motivational. Price: $325 each, $650 total.
3) Since I have sleeved coilovers, I can purchase regular shortened non-threaded body shocks from Motivational designed for lowereing springs for $235 each, or $470 total.

I'm leaning towards the GC camber plates. I'll be able to keep the external adjustability of the AGXs, I'll still get 1" of travel, and I can sell my Cusco plates to offset the $350 cost. Any other suggestions?

Anyone want some Cusco camber plates?

------------------
Matt
92 SE-R from Heck

"What have you DONE to that thing..." - stranger at Rockingham dragway 5/18/01
"Where's the turbo?" - stranger at the 1st autocross of 2000 where my SE-R debuted
"That thing is a goddamn rocket ship. I'm not lifting for you on the straights anymore!" -Karl Shultz, Rockingham 4/27/01
"What in the hell have you done since I drove it last?" -David Stone, Rockingham 4/27/01

 

[MaddMatt]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I do not like the GC plates simply because you have to dismantle the entire strut
assembly to remove the assembly. With the Cusco loosen three top nuts/bolts and two
bottom ones and the assembly is removed in ONE PIECE. You can put it back in as is
w/o an alignment even.</font>

If the GC camber plates mount on top of the tower, why would you need to remove anything more than the middle bolt where the strut attaches to the plate? Perhaps I don't have a clear understnding of how GC plates work.

I don't remove the assembly unless there's a problem or I'm changing spring rates. So, no matter what plates I have, they're comming of anyway.

 

[slowSER]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by MaddMatt:
If the GC camber plates mount on top of the tower, why would you need to remove anything more than the middle bolt where the strut attaches to the plate? Perhaps I don't have a clear understnding of how GC plates work.</font>

Yeah, you just remove the nut at the top of the strut (the big one that attaches directly to the threads at the top of the strut), and the strut comes off. You don't have to remove any bolts on the camber plate. One nut and the two lower bolts on the hub assembly, and the strut comes off.

I've done this several times in the past couple weeks.

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'93 Sentra SE-R, daily driver and track/autox toy
'91 Sentra SE-R, future racecar

 

[nj1266]

You are going for the cheapest option and that is fine. But the best option in the long run are the shortened struts. I would get ones that are single adjustable WHILE THEY ARE ON THE CAR. It is a pain to have to remove the strut off the car to adjust it and have to get another $40 alignment to do this.

I do not like the GC plates simply because you have to dismantle the entire strut assembly to remove the assembly. With the Cusco loosen three top nuts/bolts and two bottom ones and the assembly is removed in ONE PIECE. You can put it back in as is w/o an alignment even.

------------------
Naji Dahi, aka Red Mist
Fast 1998 SE-R Last of the SE-Rs
Slow 1996 G20 (AGXs/G20t springs, K&N drop in filter)

 

[nissan98ser]

I have a set of GC CC plate and I'm willing to trade with your Cusco plate because I don't like the GC plate. Please let me know
[email protected]